Glock 21 recoil rod?

[JJE76]

Picked one up one kind of a impulse purchase, wanted a poly 45. Will upgrading the recoil rod to one of the heavy tungsten ones smooth it out or is it a gimmick?

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[TTSX]

Gimmick. You'd get a lot more attaching a weight to the rail. Or a light. Or nothing, really, as the G21 is quite soft for a .45

 

[Yarome]

Gimmick. If you must... maybe stainless, but that's a bit gimmicky as well. Absolutely nothing wrong with OEM and as TTSX said... if weight for recoil taming is desired... better off making it functional... like a WL.

 

[DunRanull]

Personally I like the stainless steel as being stronger and longer-lived than plastic. Could just be a placebo, I dunno.. Also looking to get a stronger spring as I load hot .45acp.. I know, Glocks explode with reloads and void the warranty..
Can't wait till some aftermarket parts come out for the gen5 G19.. just cuz

 

[Nosferatu]

Only reason to change it is if you want to change the spring weight.

 

[sikhed]

Leave it as is. When the OEM one breaks, your pistol will continue to function until it's time for a tear-down to clean. When a factory guiderod fails, it's always at the tip at the muzzle end.
Glock plastic OEM guiderod/spring assemblies are cheap and plentiful. You can buy a dozen of them to equal the cost of one tungsten guiderod.

 

[The Heretic]

If you want reliability, then a metal guide rod will be better than the stock plastic one, but it won't make much difference, if at all, in recoil.

A comp will help - at one time I had a G21 that was bone stock and a G21 that had a hybrid comp. The comp pistol was noticeably less muzzle flip and a bit less recoil.

As others have said, a WML on a rail will do more in the weight dept.

If you want to shoot +P+ and/or .45 Super, then a stronger recoil spring might be necessary. Or this:

Glock – Page 2 – DPM Systems Technologies Ltd

 

[Member 53328]

Gimmick.

 

[DirectDrive]

Gimmick.
Stick with the Glock OEM RSA.
Yes, they are polymer and people think they should "upgrade" to a metal rod.
But the OEM RSA's don't break.....just replace at recommended interval.
Millions of Glocks around the world are running with the OEM RSA !
They are inexpensive. Use 'em !

I scratch-built a G17 and G19 a few years ago and thought I'd "upgrade" to stainless steel guide rods.
Everything was fine until one fell apart at the range....I unknowingly added another failure point.
You have to Loctite the keeper screw.

So folks, stay with the OEM RSA in your Glocks.
One exception might be in a G20 or G40 (10mm) if you are running full house bear loads.
Then go to Jager and get hooked up with an extra power RSA if you think you need it.

 

[TTSX]

Yeabut Lenny magill says you need it. And a pyramid trigger, of course.

 

[DirectDrive]

Yeabut Lenny magill says you need it. And a pyramid trigger, of course.

The GlockStore, where the n00bs go and you should go there to !

 

[DunRanull]

Gimmick.
Stick with the Glock OEM RSA.
Yes, they are polymer and people think they should "upgrade" to a metal rod.
But the OEM RSA's don't break.....just replace at recommended interval.
Millions of Glocks around the world are running with the OEM RSA !
They are inexpensive. Use 'em !

I scratch-built a G17 and G19 a few years ago and thought I'd "upgrade" to stainless steel guide rods.
Everything was fine until one fell apart at the range....I unknowingly added another failure point.
You have to Loctite the keeper screw.

So folks, stay with the OEM RSA in your Glocks.
One exception might be in a G20 or G40 (10mm) if you are running full house bear loads.
Then go to Jager and get hooked up with an extra power RSA if you think you need it.

Thanks for the Loctite heads-up!