Float Barrel and Bed Action?

[Ura-Ki]

Zigzag, if those pillers are smooth, use a rough rasp or a hack saw blade and put some teeth on the pillers to get them to grab hold and stick better. Also put a piece of clear tape on the tops where they fit the reciever! For opening up the bolt holes, use drill bits only to get things opend up to 3/4 of what you need, then sanding rolls and a drill ( i use a big flex shaft die grider) and go slow and check often. You can get the sanding rolls and mandrals at Harbor Freight Tools, its an engine porting kit, cost about $30 for the whole thing!
As for not glassing in the second recoil lug, some rifles this is true, some not, depending on how the reciever is set up. Most older designs only use the front main recoil lug, and like MountainBear says, will cause issues. We will need to see the rear of your reciever to help decide if it should be done or not!

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Zigzag, if those pillers are smooth, use a rough rasp or a hack saw blade and put some teeth on the pillers to get them to grab hold and stick better. Also put a piece of clear tape on the tops where they fit the reciever! For opening up the bolt holes, use drill bits only to get things opend up to 3/4 of what you need, then sanding rolls and a drill ( i use a big flex shaft die grider) and go slow and check often. You can get the sanding rolls and mandrals at Harbor Freight Tools, its an engine porting kit, cost about $30 for the whole thing!

The pillars I'm ordering have circumferential grooves around them, but I like your idea of roughening them up. Is the clear tape on top of the pillars to keep the bedding material out of the bolt holes?

The pillars in the kit I ordered require a 9/16" hole, whereas the action bolts are only .250". Opening the rear hole to 9/16" will just barely blow through the wooden wall into the trigger area. I was nervous about trying to use a 9/16" drill. If it hooked that edge while drilling, even with a drill press, it might ruin the stock. Sounds like a good idea to drill it out to 1/2" first and then grind it the rest of the way. I have an air operated die grinder that I use for doing race car heads. That should do the trick.

 

[Ura-Ki]

The clear tape does several things. Keeping the epoxy ( or glue, or what ever you use) out of the holes, and acts sort of like a shim to tighten the fit. Conversly, you could also use a bit of rubber cement and glue a small patch of 400 grit sand paper to the reciever and sand the pillers to match exactly! I only do this with the round type, but i see no reason you couldnt also do it on the flat pillers.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Well, I finally got the scope mounts figured out for the new Vortex Viper I'm putting on this rifle. It's a 44mm instead of a 50mm like the old scope, so I was able to use low rings instead of medium, but only after I ditched the one piece base and got a two piece set. The turret body was interfering with the middle section of the one piece base with the low rings. Feeling good about that. Getting a very good cheek weld on the stock now, and this glass is much better than that bargain basement Barska that was on it.