Finding a "mentor"?

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Hey all,

New to reloading here. Picked up a tumbler, and ordering a press kit tomorrow. Looking at getting the lee breech lock challenger kit. As of now, strictly looking to load 9mm until I build some knowledge and confidence. Couple of chapters into the "lee modern reloading" manual. I have always been a hands on learner, after learning certain aspects it becomes easier to understand certain terms and processes while reading a textbook.

I'm hoping to find someone in the Yamhill county area, close to Newberg if possible, who wouldn't mind "mentoring" me in the journey of reloading. As in, case inspection through actually loading, trimming cases, measuring charges etc.
 

bbbass

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For your bench, because one should always have reference manuals for critical work, look into eventually getting a Lyman, a Hornady, and the Speer reloading manuals. On account of someday you may wish to branch out from 9mm.

Also, Lasercast is a good reference for cast pistol cal boolitts and also for plated bullets such as Xtremes, Berry's, etc.

Good on ya! Always remember that you are loading small bombs... it has certain danger potentials... not advocating being paranoid, just careful. No smoking, no drinking, no distractions, keep powder and primers put away, etc.

Have fun with your new hobby! It's addictive and a great way to while away some winter hours.
 
OP
AustenW
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For your bench, because one should always have reference manuals for critical work, look into eventually getting a Lyman, a Hornady, and the Speer reloading manuals. On account of someday you may wish to branch out from 9mm.

Also, Lasercast is a good reference for cast pistol cal boolitts and also for plated bullets such as Xtremes, Berry's, etc.

Good on ya! Always remember that you are loading small bombs... it has certain danger potentials... not advocating being paranoid, just careful. No smoking, no drinking, no distractions, keep powder and primers put away, etc.

Have fun with your new hobby! It's addictive and a great way to while away some winter hours.
Absolutely, that's why I want to learn from some experienced leaders!
 

ageingstudent

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"...No smoking, no drinking, no distractions..."
Well you're no fun:p.

Absolutely, that's why I want to learn from some experienced leaders!
Lots of help to be had here brother. For most of us the pm is always open. Welcome to the fold. Lot's of careful and experienced help available here even @bbbass. ;). If you can follow directions you'll be just fine. Starting with a pistol cartridge is a good choice!
 
OP
AustenW
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Well you're no fun:p.


Lots of help to be had here brother. For most of us the pm is always open. Welcome to the fold. Lot's of careful and experienced help available here even @bbbass. ;). If you can follow directions you'll be just fine. Starting with a pistol cartridge is a good choice!
I will definitely be reaching out to folks. My press should be here on Friday or Monday hopefully. Then I just need to start buying components. Gonna look through the load book and find a starting recipe I like and go from there
 

bbbass

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I will definitely be reaching out to folks. My press should be here on Friday or Monday hopefully. Then I just need to start buying components. Gonna look through the load book and find a starting recipe I like and go from there
Have you decided on what powder you want to start with? IMO, it's always good to start with a powder that has a good supply available. When you go to the store you might need to have a few in mind in case the one you want is in short supply.
 
OP
AustenW
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Some of what I was reading, stated the if you can get a slower burning powder that fills a majority of the case, the better chances you have getting decent pressures and accuracy to start. I was looking at Accurate #7 with 124gr jacketed projectiles. It has a nice buffer between start and max at 6.9-7.9gr.
 
OP
AustenW
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And if I'm not mistaken, it is a smaller spherical powder, so in theory it should measure nicely through the lee powder measure. Trying to avoid thicker flakes and cylindrical powders as I have read a lot of them don't matter well through the lee. PLEASE BY ALL MEANS CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG lol
 

BillM

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Been a long time since I did any serious reloading on a single stage---but I will offer one piece of
advise from my early days on a RCBS 40+ years ago:

Buy two reloading trays. I used (and still do) the MTM red universal. trays. Do each operation
complete from one tray to the other.

If you ever get curious about progressive come on down to Amity and pull the handle on my Dillon
550 for a while---last year was 20,000+ 9mm, I could use a break!



1575492715420.png
 

bbbass

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Some of what I was reading, stated the if you can get a slower burning powder that fills a majority of the case, the better chances you have getting decent pressures and accuracy to start. I was looking at Accurate #7 with 124gr jacketed projectiles. It has a nice buffer between start and max at 6.9-7.9gr.
And if I'm not mistaken, it is a smaller spherical powder, so in theory it should measure nicely through the lee powder measure. Trying to avoid thicker flakes and cylindrical powders as I have read a lot of them don't matter well through the lee. PLEASE BY ALL MEANS CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG lol
There are very very many people on this forum that know more than me about reloading. Especially for rifles.

I don't have any experience with Accurate #7. But I can confirm that flake powders are harder to drop consistently and cylindrical powders I use only for rifle cartridge reloading and use a trickler to finish the final measure.

Powders I have used successfully for 9mm are:

Clays
700X
TiteGroup

Only because it's convenient for me. That's not to say that other powders aren't wonderful choices, but that I can verify that they do work well.

One powder to avoid for 9mm is TiteWad... I use it for .45ACP because it makes a powder puff load with only 2.2grs (very economical) but when used in 9mm it can cause pressure instability.
 

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