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Show me one. o_O
Sorry, I don't keep things like that around. After 50 Years in the business, I've seen lots of things I would rather forget. If you don't want to believe it, that's your choice. After the .357 Magnum came around people who owned Heavy Frame .38 Special revolvers were known to ream out the cylinder to .357. A good practice - No, but was it done - Yes.
 
The diameter is the same, only the length is longer for the .357 Magnum.

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Looking for options for a first cheap revolver. Mostly just want something I can blast ammo with, not concerned about any crazy accuracy more of just reliable.

Looking myself online but thought some of you may have ideas!

Here, let me help...Get googlin' and find how to check specific revolvers for wear/damage. Invest in an inexpensive bore light. Or use a white piece of paper with a bright light shinning on it while you look down the barrel for corrosion, leading and any other ugliness. Consider that a gun that has been up for awhile may be had for less than posted. Make an "Offer", but don't be offensive. Revolvers, particularly, may have a bunch of holster wear but have very few down the pipe. Those can be excellent guns for the money!

WTS/WTT OR - Ruger police service-six 4" .357 mag

I am rather intrigued by this one. I'm a Smith guy all the way, but.....If I was new to the revolver game?...."Research"

WTS WA - Taurus model 65 in 357 magnum nickel

WTS OR - S&W 686 SSR .357

A little more than you want to pay maybe, but?.....A little road trip can be a nice thing. The wife and I took a nice road trip to Grants Pass to buy a pretty revolver. I was fun, with a nice motel and dinner on the way back.

I see you're in Washington so you need to see what it takes to buy in Oregon as I'm not familiar with the process for hand guns. I do know long guns can be brought down here and transferred.

Once you get a chunk of change in you pocket keep checking the for sale page. Something will come up!
 
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Cheap isn't necessarily determined by the initial cost of your next pistol. For instance, what you feed it over the years will add up. While a .357 magnum pistol will probably cost you more than a .38 made by the same manufacturer, you can also shoot cheap .38, and +P in it for a LOT less over the decades. My trusty S&W 686 turned 35 this year.

With a 6" barrel, it's hardly concealable, but the longer sight radius helps deliver excellent accuracy even for shaky beginners. And given what it weighs, recoil is not the least bit intimidating for first-timers with gentle .38 rounds. You want a little more bang for your buck? Load up some .357 magnum JHP.

Double action pistols can shoot double and single action. Single action pistols shoot single action only.

Also consider your needs regarding adjustable vs fixed sights, comfy grips, sensible holster, frequency of use, etc., etc. In as little as a year, "cheap" might be defined more by how you like to use the pistol than by a price tag dangling from the trigger guard today.
 
There is a phsycological slant to this . If you grab a revolver and if it feels sloppy you wont do your best shooting it. If that revolver feels solid and works like a watch it will build confidence. You need to build a relationship with your firearm so that you trust it. I am not willing to trust my familys well being to a maybe.
 
A good solid option is the Dan Wesson 14-2. It's the service model of the 15-2 with the matte finish, same revolver mechanically. DA/SA, smooth trigger, built like a tank. The 14-2 has fixed sights, (15-2 adjustable, bigger sights), depends on your needs.

Different barrel lengths are available and a multitude of easy-to-swap grip options are for sale on ebay. Barrel and shrouds can be swapped for different lengths also, but while easy to do it may be best to wait for a little more experience to get into that.

These revolvers don't command a high price at all due to the matte finish and being overshadowed by the beautiful polished 15-2's. You can often pick one up for less than a Taurus, but the Dan Wesson quality is way above the Taurus. I've sold a couple 14-2's for $300--albeit a few years ago.

I'd probably opt for a nice 4" barrel length to start. .357 caliber so I could plink with .38's and blast a few .357's once in awhile.

For a shooter grade revolver to learn with I think you'd be very happy, and you shouldn't lose a dime if you decide to re-sell it.
 
I heard on the radio today that Keith's (a good gun shop, Gresham or so) is selling S&W handguns at $50 off and then another $50 off with the mail-in manufacturers rebate.
A good K-frame Smith is a good gun, even with the stupid Hillary Hole/key lock.
Barring that, as has probably been said before, a used Smith or a new or used Ruger is pretty much the gold standard these days.
 
You don't want a "cheap" revolver, or a "cheap" any firearm for that matter. Not if you intend to shoot it much, trust us when we say this, Im sure there are others who have learned that lesson posting here. Aside from rust or a corroded barrel, one thing to check is the cylinder lock-up when the trigger is pulled all the way back, shouldnt be much looseness or wiggle-room.
A decent Smith model 10 or pre-model 10 is a good choice, with a bbl length between 3" and 6" inches. After-market grips and holsters of various types are legion. I have a pre-10 Smith with 5" bbl, that is beginning to go brownish, been tempted to have it reblued but won't since it would destroy any resale value to a collector (Paid $200 for it a few years ago from a fellow officer, it had been carried in Nebraska as a duty weapon). Also have a Colt Police Positive Special, a somewhat smaller revolver in .38 special. It too had been a police carry. Used Rugers are out there too and maintain their value over time. A .357 can be a good choice for the fact that you have the option of practicing with .38s and can if you want carry the +P .38s.
As advised above, steer clear of the Taurus and Rossi brands, they can be a real hassle as they can break or go out of time and are difficult to get fixed...
 
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The Rugers i.e. Gp100/sp101 will do fine also but weigh 30% more than their SW counterparts due to using beefed up frames to counter the inherent fragility of cast vs forged frames.

Wow! Really? I don't know where you get your information about Ruger revolver frames, but you need to look elsewhere for your information. Nothing could be farther from the truth.
Ruger revolvers are incredibly strong, but I didn't recommend them because because they aren't that inexpensive. We won't get into the fact that even being a Ruger fan, I'm not that thrilled with how they look.
 
It has been known for a long time that Bill Ruger perfected a form of investment casting which allowed him to build a less expensive yet strong revolver. They were designed to be hell-for-strong. Cylinders are machined stock. Ruger was to sidearms as Ford was to family automobiles.
Some google will bring up a lot of info on the Ruger investment casting process.
 
Also consider an older Charter Arms .44 Special Bulldog revolver. Recoil intensive. Very Intensive. Most folks shoot about 5 rounds then sell the gun ... CHEAP. But ... NOT a blaster type revolver. Bucks too much. Makes an nice INEXPENSIVE piece.

Three inch barrel. Basically a bored out to .44 Special .38 Special small "J" frame TYPE Smith and Wesson revolver. About 19 ounces empty with Pack Myer black rubber grips. About 22 ounces loaded with 5 Winchester Silvertip 200 grain hollow points.

How cheap? I bought another one for $150 bucks with a box of 20 remaining Winchester Silvertip rounds. Bridgeport Conn. model. Very tight. But ... they will rust. This one is going into one of the big heavy multiple vehicle bug out bags. A real keeper.

Buffalo Bore Ammunition Company sell "puff ball" low power .44 Special "Cowboy Target Shooting Loads'. I have not tried them. Might make the Black Bucker more enjoyable to shoot at refresher courses or at the Range. Another distinct possibility.
 
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There's always the classic RG10 .22 revolver. The ultimate in cheap!




(Just kidding of course. I wouldn't recommend an RG10 even for a boat anchor; way too light, your boat would drift. Might be useful as a sinker for bottom fishing?)
 
Should have used the word inexpensive. Not looking to blow my hand off obviously with sub par constructed firearms. Very interested in that Taurus 65. Although new at sportsmans it's about the same price just matte black instead of nickel?
 

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