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You mean cannelured? It doesn't matter if it has a cannelure or not unless..
I never crimp rifle bullets as I don't use a tube fed nor ferocious kickers.
 
Semi auto ammunition can be crimped into a cannelure, or a taper crimp w/o it. You must crimp to avoid bullets being moved into or out of the case: it does happen! Don't take chances.
 
Had a couple of "Set-backs". Found it was caused by improper crimp due to excessive case length.

I had come from reloading "Bolt" guns to AR15's and lets face it...The AR stretches the crap out of brass and if you don't keep it properly trimmed, your dies wont crimp properly.:s0131:

Jack...:cool:
 
One school of thought is crimping a jacketed bullet without a cannelure can cause uneven pressure on the jacket, leading to a wobbly round as it flies downrange. There is a youtube video somewhere on it, and I think it was put out by Speer? Anyway, In a standard AR (without a modified gas block to slow the gas down) on hot rounds, your action may cycle pretty quick which can cause the bullets to set back a little under the force of recoil and loading. But depending on your seating die and how it puts a slight crimp on the bullet, you may not have to crimp it with a crimp die.

Personally, I have loaded both styles of bullets. I have crimped & not crimped both style of bullets when used in an AR-10. I have not found that accuracy suffers with a light crimp from a Lee Factory Crimp Die either way. Similarly, I have taken many cannelured rounds and loaded them with a different seating depth (length of the lands on my bolt gun are long) and not had a problem with and without a crimp. YMMV, but I wouldn't worry about it.

As for Nosler, I have shot those as well. My brother in law bought a couple large boxes, we sorted them based on actual weight, and load them based on that. If you're looking for plinking ammo or hunting ammo, blem rounds work just fine for close in stuff (200 yards or less). If you're looking to reach out for game, compete or target shoot at range, you may consider getting higher quality bullets that aren't blem. Otherwise, I have found no problems with Nosler bullets in general, nor the Hornady SST's, AMAX, etc...
 
For my AR, I trim EVERY case to length, and crimp with a separate Lee crimp die. To crimp or not is an individual decision...but it you do crimp, I find a separate die easier to set. Just my opinion.
 
For my AR, I trim EVERY case to length, and crimp with a separate Lee crimp die. To crimp or not is an individual decision...but it you do crimp, I find a separate die easier to set. Just my opinion.
Very true, one is supposed to/has to trim/check bottleneck cases with each firing/loading..
edit.. it depends if full-length sizing etc. (gun action, load).. you better check them or "know" from your firsthand knowledge with that particular load and gun if you don't/don't have to.
 
Dear John,
What pray tell are you loading for? Cartridge/load/arm.. like that matters in your case or I'm sure you would have qualified/said it. lolz. speak
 
Maybe to make my life easier and I'll start with .40 and 9mm reloading and work my way to the 5.56/.223 and 30/30.....with some hands on help for the first batch. I'll do some more research on Lee crimp dies and continue to accept all input which seems split closer to the middle than I'd hoped for. Thanks everyone for input. Keep it coming.

PS: I was looking at the Nosler 60 grain overstock


Nosler 22 60 gr Partition Spitzer (OVER-RUN) 50ct

I have several rifle powders in stock to choose from.


$15.60

Nosler 22-60gr Partition Spitzer (OVER-RUN) 50ct Learn More

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For my 40 Speer Gold Dot loads I matched the OAL of the factory load in the same bullet weight. They work perfectly. I loaded up a 1000 rd case using Herco and a small magnum primer
 
Case length, seating depth and crimp are critical in the .40 S&W cartridge. Even more so than the .223, I would say.
Actually, if you are using the Lee factory crimp die, the case length is not as critical as you might think. Now if you are using standard dies which result in a roll crimp, then uniform case length is critical, as with magnum revolver cartridges which need a strong roll crimp to make the best use of the relatively slow burning powder for maximum velocity performance. I use the Lee factory crimp die on my 9mm and .223 ammo and it works well, even if the cases aren't uniformly the exact same length. FWIW, dies for most auto pistol cartridges come with a taper crimp die instead of a roll crimp, at least I know that RCBS and Lee do.
 
Good point, 2ndTimer. It 's not super critical, but I prefer trimming all my cases regardless of caliber. Even though on straight-wall pistol cartridges I know I can get away with not doing it, I prefer the peace-of-mind in knowing I did everything in my power to produce a quality round. I too use the Lee factory crimp dies, and I can not say enough great things about them. They are a must have for a great taper crimp!
 
Back on topic now... For my .223 handloads I do put a light crimp on the case mouth regardless of the bullet having a cannalure or not. I shoot an AR, and I feel better knowing the crimp is there.
 
My 2 cents. I don't mean to brag but to qualify my expereince. That I have reloaded for the AR for 25 years.
I shoot competitively and go through several thousand 223 and at least 500 30/06s in a year.
I do not crimp any rifle loads. If the brass is properly sized you cannot
push the bullet back into the case. I have tested with crimp and no crimp in 10 shot groups and every time
the no crimp was considerably tighter groups. I shoot several thousand rounds of 223 in an AR per year with no
issues of bullets being pushed back into the case or feed problems. I shoot several Garand matches a year
and have no feeding problems through several different Garands with no crimp.
 

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