Bushmaster Front site removal (Taper pins Stuck?)

[Warthog]

Hello,

So I have done some quick research and found I am not alone on this. I am trying to remove the front site base on a factory built Bushmaster upper with a standard front site. The so called tapper pins, look more like rivets to me, so I didn't spend a lot of time before I gave up. Anyone know a trick or if its possible that they are rivets and not taper pins? The upper is a Patrolmen thats about 4 years old, although its never been fired.

I am trying i to install a free float rail system. Which has become an expensive and fruitless venture. After purchasing the required tools, vise, special DD wrench and a new hammer. I am sure it would have been cheaper to buy a new upper. I would gladly pay for some help. I am in the Stayton area but will travel.

Warthog

Read More

 

[RockKrawler]

http://www.tacticalgunfan.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=441&Itemid=77

http://ar15tactical.net/pdf/Taper Pin Starter.pdf

Brownells how to build an AR video series.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11004/guntechdetail/How_to_Build_An_AR-15_Video

It can be a PITA to get them out,if you plan on saving the site then you will have to work at it. If not saving the site then use a Dremel and cut it off.
RK

 

[willamette valleyfirearms]

these pins will take alot of force to remove and were not hammerd in they were pressed in ,the best way to remove them is with a press or good vise and when reinstalled if you try to use a hammer your pins and gun will get f#@%& up any ?S www.willamettevalleyfirearms.com

 

[MountainBear]

Shrubmaster pins are notoriously difficult to drive out. Make sure you are driving them the correct direction, make sure your punch stays on the pin head, and then use a large dead-blow hammer. That is assuming you don't have a pin press or something that can function as one...

 

[Warthog]

I am using a 1/4 inch punch. I read somewhere to use a Drift Punch, so I went to the hardware store and looked at one, looks the same as what I have. I know I am pushing the right way. I used some masking tape over the pins to help prevent scratches and marks, didn't help. I might try a different hammer, I have been using a large rubber hammer, its always work well on my other projects. The rifle is brand new and I already marked up the site post a bit, so at this point I am thinking a gun smith may be the way to go. After buying the rail, punches, upper vise block, proprietary wrench and other tools, it may have been cheaper to buy a new upper. I figured it would be easy and I could do it again, I thought wrong. I did look at my Colt and it looks like they would come right out. This seems to be a Bushmaster issue. Hopefully my pain will help someone else down the road.

Warthog

 

[MountainBear]

Don't use a rubber hammer. Put on some safety glasses and use a large METAL hammer. Rubber bounces and doesn't transfer energy properly to the punches.

 

[Warthog]

I will try a metal hammer. My hammer is not rubber, its Nylon I think, I got it from Midway. Not sure why I said rubber. I thought about odering a front site removal block from Brownell's, but I think I have spent enough on this. Thanks for your help.

 

[MountainBear]

For what it's worth, the hammer I used to remove the taper pins on my last shrubmaster weighed in at 8 pounds of steel...

 

[eldbillbo]

AH Good ole taper pins had a difficult set last weekend myself finally cut the darn thing off since im replacing it with a piston gas block


are you planning to replace with a new block or use the one you are removing

if you are going with a new block it can be carfully cut off using a dremel type cutting wheel

as far as punches get a cheap under $5 carpernters punch from harbor freight
these are slightly cupped so it wont walk on you when you pound it they ware out quickly but i was able to knock about about a dozen sets before it totally was useless

for sure use a steal hammer even a household full size claw hammer is better than what your using but better is a good mid size ball ping hammer

makes sure your pounding them out the right way remember they taper one side of the pin is wider than the other going the wrong way they cant move

oh and did you get the special front sight base removal block ? that helps i don't recommend you pay the money for one if its a 1 time deal i used to monkey rig set ups for holding the front sight base using wood and vice or clamps

if that don't work i'll see if i can find a special punch my dad made up for me that i used for the really difficult ones

 

[Celtic Armory]

I have a 1 ton arbor press for difficult pins and if they're real difficult I use my 12 ton hydraulic press.

 

[PinkhamR]

AH Good ole taper pins had a difficult set last weekend myself finally cut the darn thing off since im replacing it with a piston gas block


are you planning to replace with a new block or use the one you are removing

if you are going with a new block it can be carfully cut off using a dremel type cutting wheel

as far as punches get a cheap under $5 carpernters punch from harbor freight
these are slightly cupped so it wont walk on you when you pound it they ware out quickly but i was able to knock about about a dozen sets before it totally was useless

for sure use a steal hammer even a household full size claw hammer is better than what your using but better is a good mid size ball ping hammer

makes sure your pounding them out the right way remember they taper one side of the pin is wider than the other going the wrong way they cant move

oh and did you get the special front sight base removal block ? that helps i don't recommend you pay the money for one if its a 1 time deal i used to monkey rig set ups for holding the front sight base using wood and vice or clamps

if that don't work i'll see if i can find a special punch my dad made up for me that i used for the really difficult ones

I ended up doing the same thing ... the pins are pressed in but are usually directional. It is difficult to determine the direction sometimes. Good Luck ...