Brass questions?

[Josh89]

Can brass that has been out in the weather be safely reloaded,I know a spot where there is a lot has just been out in the weather. I'm going to start learning about reloading then would like to start in a few weeks.just thought it would be nice to have a ample amount of brass before I start but don't want to waste a couple hours picking up worthless brass

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[fxdc]

It will be fine, it's just gonna take longer to get really nice and bright.

 

[orygun]

There are a lot of "depends" here.
If the brass is clean and not corroded it's no problem. Being out in the weather isn't all that bad, it's being out in the weather for a longer period of time.
The corrosion shows a discolor of the brass. Usually starts out white and then later the brass will darken, eventually corroding away like rust to iron. Cleaning the brass is no problem with a tumbler, but the question remains. How much corrosion weakens the brass enough to be an issue?
If a case is really bad looking, I just throw it in my scrap brass bucket. If it looks good and cleans up well, I'll use it.
No matter what, I pick up the brass. Some of it's very good and either I use it or find someone that can. I've even sold and traded some. If it's not reloadable or junk, I just keep saving it and take it in when I scrap other metals.

 

[ageingstudent]

There are a lot of "depends" here.
If the brass is clean and not corroded it's no problem. Being out in the weather isn't all that bad, it's being out in the weather for a longer period of time.
The corrosion shows a discolor of the brass. Usually starts out white and then later the brass will darken, eventually corroding away like rust to iron. Cleaning the brass is no problem with a tumbler, but the question remains. How much corrosion weakens the brass enough to be an issue?
If a case is really bad looking, I just throw it in my scrap brass bucket. If it looks good and cleans up well, I'll use it.
No matter what, I pick up the brass. Some of it's very good and either I use it or find someone that can. I've even sold and traded some. If it's not reloadable or junk, I just keep saving it and take it in when I scrap other metals.

That's a reasonable assessment. Usually it takes brass quite awhile to degrade in the absence of something that will eat on it like ammonia or a stronger acid. If it's just weathered and somewhat tarnished it's probably fine. I used to do a lot of shooting out at my mom's in Gaston, OR and I have found brass that I missed here and there as much as 2 years old and cleaned them up. They shot fine but they weren't pitted or eaten and they cleaned right up. No issues so far. Just recycle anything that doesn't meet your criteria.

 

[Josh89]

Thanks guys,most of it has been there for about the last 6 months,anyother tips or things i should know first getting into it.i was just going to buy a couple books first and go from there

 

[ageingstudent]

Thanks guys,most of it has been there for about the last 6 months,anyother tips or things i should know first getting into it.i was just going to buy a couple books first and go from there

Look at Powell's online sometimes they have used books. I like Richard Lee's second edition tutorial best but I like the Lyman 49th and cast bullet handbook better for load data, or bullet manufacturer data like speer or hornady. Abc's of reloading is a decent tutorial on reloading if you can find a copy of that. Good Idea to read up on it first.

 

[Lilhigbee]

This thread is a pretty good rehash of beginner's reloading advice;
Reloading Manual: Which One to Start With?

 

[Member 5605]

Yes and no.

The weathering (oxidation) of brass doesn't hurt it much until it starts pitting the brass which shows up after you do a proper cleaning. Picking up brass always runs a risk especially with rifle rounds and case head separation. I've had older brass do that once.

Since I clean my brass with stainless pins in a rotary tumbler picking up the dirtiest and filthiest of brass that's on the ground doesn't bother me. They all come out looking as new as when they were first formed. I would suggest/advise that you check the primers as well when picking up orphan brass. Don't want to get any Berdan primed brass in there and busting your decapping pins in the process.

I have picked up so much range brass I do not do it anymore. My tubs and totes are full. Enough is enough.

The 'on the ground' brass I do pickup though is: 9mm, .40, .45, .357, .38 special, .44Mag and the elusive .223/5.56 brass. When it comes to .223/5.56 I only pick up stuff that has primer pocket crimp. I then know it's fired once. I swage my own .223/5.56 brass so anyone who has knocked out a primer and seated another hopefully will have done the same (or cut the crimp out). Larger magnum rifle calibers I will not pick up. Their life is short and typically there is a reason why somebody left it on the ground.

Black brass can look new again.

 

[Otter]

If you are interested in accuracy, I would buy all one lot of some brass, ideally Lapua, and go from there. Different brands of brass will have different internal capacities, which will result in different pressures, thus affecting accuracy.

Considering you can reload brass so many times, it is a minimal expense. I have some lapua 6BR brass with over 20 reloads and I have not lost a single one. I also have lots of 223 brass with a similar life span.

 

[Oathkeeper1775]

Watch out for Berdan brass: has two flash holes instead of 1 in the center. Berdan brass can break a decapping pin...