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I have a few knives from Oaks Bottom forge. I think they went out of business. See the dip in the blade? I can't get a consistent bevel at 400 grit. It's fairly sharp it'll cut paper decent. is that bad? Don't know much about the material and am a beginner with sharpening. i did 400 1000 and strop. I thought it was demascus but maybe its high carbon. Thanks for the education.

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That dip in the blade is from a hammer mark. Oak bottom was known for making very rough/forge finished knives. Because of this, the edge wasn't always perfectly true. I'm not sure what sharpening system you're using, but if you're using stones that have a large surface area, you're going to have a hard time reaching that depression. Diamond coated rods have a very small contact area, and are good at reaching every part of the blade.
 
That dip in the blade is from a hammer mark. Oak bottom was known for making very rough/forge finished knives. Because of this, the edge wasn't always perfectly true. I'm not sure what sharpening system you're using, but if you're using stones that have a large surface area, you're going to have a hard time reaching that depression. Diamond coated rods have a very small contact area, and are good at reaching every part of the blade.
I'm using whetstones. So get a rod and kinda blend that dip in?
 
I would start with a primary bevel at like 30 deg total that would help clean up the edge then come back at 20 deg with a micro bevel.
With like a 120 grit to start just reshape it?

I got a cheap low grit stone but thinking about getting a Shapton diamond stone.

Kinda confused when to use rods vs stones at higher grits. Is it just working style preference? And I read diamond stones need breaking in.
 
With like a 120 grit to start just reshape it?

I got a cheap low grit stone but thinking about getting a Shapton diamond stone.

Kinda confused when to use rods vs stones at higher grits. Is it just working style preference? And I read diamond stones need breaking in.
I wouldn't use 120. At your current skill level, you'll do more harm than good. I wouldn't go any lower than 400 on that knife if I were you. Rods vs stones can be part preference, part necessity based on blade shape. At this stage, I wouldn't worry about "break in" on diamond sharpeners. That's like a new shooter worrying about tuning their barrel to certain loads when they can't hold a decent group to begin with.
 
Still learning. Stones are messy but I like the rough grit. Expensive knife to experiment with but I want to reduce the radius or sweep of the blade.

Would like to watch someone with a belt grinder rough reshape.

My project for the summer trying to hold off on a new rifle. 1692158323278.png
 
I like the Smith brand. Super customer service also. I guess I want it a more refined primary bevel.

Today I got some 800 grit sandpaper out. Shined it up.

Realized I want to get better with technique. Then reversed things for that divot. File the blade not stroke the blade down the rod.

At the end of the night I switched to a usuba (no idea what I'm doing gfs knife) laugh vegetable knife don't laugh thin sliced rib eye with real wasabi and L&P yummy in the cast iron.

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