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Just picked up a GP100 and it has some caked on powder residue. What is the best product and method of cleaning this off without tearing up the stainless finish? this stuff is really caked on there. i know gun shops get stuff in like this all the time but everything in the case looks new so there must be something good out there for this. Thanks in advance for any help given!

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Hobbes 9, swabs, bore snake, if you can stomach, steel wool, else, brass wool, etc. In other words, same stuff you use for your other guns.

The advantage of stainless steel over nickle, bluing, duracoat, etc. is that you cannot "damage" it because it is not a really a "finish". When I want to deep clean, to remove that gunked up oil/grease I take them appart and soak them with carb cleaner.

I always keep some 400, 800 and 1500 grit sand paper at hand to bring back that "like-new" look to all my SS handguns.

Enjoy!
 
Buy a .357 bore snake and some Hoppes #9 solvent. I also use those long wooden Q tips that you see at the doctors office and pre-saturate the bore and cyclinder with the Hoppes. Let it soak for 10 minutes.
Than dip the first couple of inches of the bore snake into the Hoppes bottle and then run it through the bore "starting at the breach" and out the muzzle. Same with the cylinder.
Just for fun, watch a YouTube video on how to take down your Ruger, they are the most user friendly to disassemble, clean / lubricate and reassemble of any revolver made.
 
Solvent of your choice, lewis lead remover and a brass brush, along with a lot of elbow grease. You could start by mixing up a bunch of Ed's Red, take the grips off, and soak the whole gun for a few days first.
 
The best thing I found for quick and easy cleaning on stainless so far is Flitz polish - the paste type that comes in a tube. It took far less elbow grease using it than anything else I've tried. Just use a bit on a rag or Q-tip - put a light coating on the hard to clean areas and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off - may need to use a toothbrush to get into some of the nooks and crannies around the barrel on the frame.
 
I use Birchwood/Casey lead removal cloth cut into patches with a pair of forceps. No scratching or discoloration and it does the job better than any solvent I've used. Good luck!
 
The nice thing about that GP100 is it's super simple to strip it down the the main componets. Frame-barrel, trigger group, crane-cylinder, and grip.

If it's really that filthy I'd knock the carbon and gross fouling off with something like simple green and hot water, doing one group at a time. Dry and oil before working the next group.

Remember, just because it's stainless doesn't mean it can't rust.

H
 
I agree with Halmbarte, above me here.
I also have found 20% simple green, to water mix an excellent cleaner, and while my sonic cleaner was still working, I often suspended pistol barrels in the same mixture and could just watch the lead and fouling vibrate out of the barrel.
 
The big problem with regular SG is that it will eat aluminum.

I actually use SG Aircraft cleaner (rated safe for aluminum) airplanes because I have damaged aluminum parts in the past.

SG in a ultrasonic tank will really go to town on aluminum. Eats the anodizing off and corrodes the bare metal too.

H
 

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