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I too am a RCBS lube pad man. Too remove the lube I'll put a couple handfuls of now sized brass on a towel and give them a couple of sprays of alcohol, roll them around a bit and toss them in the walnut. This keeps the walnut cleaner.
 
The rcbs lube pad works but is to slow, l use the zip lock bag method, make sure you lube inside the necks before you put it in the bag, a dozen drops of rvbs case lube for say 100 .308 pieces is a good starting point. Put the drops inside the bag first and coat it nice and good then agitate your brass so they get a nice even coating. You can use your home brew lube as well. I'd you need more brass done, get the gallon sized bags.
 
I use lanolin and alcohol, I have never stuck a case with it.
with the brass standing neck up, I spray lightly, and then roll on a lube pad to spread it and pickup any extra. with the necks up I get just enough in the necks to lube the expander ball.
Once the Alcohol has dried, I have not seen any problem with leaving the lube on the cases.
The first time I made this was during Covid when Alcohol was hard to get. and I ordered lanolin on Amazon. I have since found 100% lanolin is in every grocery and drugstore shelves as Nipple cream for breastfeeding mothers. And it was only about a dollar for a 3- or 4-year supply.
Get the highest % alcohol you can get. it mixes better with the lanolin, stays mixed longer, and evaporates quicker. DR
 
I too am a RCBS lube pad man. Too remove the lube I'll put a couple handfuls of now sized brass on a towel and give them a couple of sprays of alcohol, roll them around a bit and toss them in the walnut. This keeps the walnut cleaner.
Sans the walnut tumbling, this is how I remove lube from the rifle brass.

Lay them on a towel, spray with alcohol and roll them around.
 
I've tried every case lube on the market and this home brew is the best. Commercial case lubes are expensive, messy and don't work as well. This home brew consists of liquid lanolin and 99% or 91% isopropyl alcohol. Ratio is 1 part lanolin to 9 parts alcohol. Simply mix it up, put in any spray container and squirt it on your cartridge case. The alcohol is simply to transport and evenly distribute the lanolin. Let it evaporate completely before resizing. I got the lanolin from Amazon for $8 and the alcohol at a drug store for about $4.

View attachment 2002772 View attachment 2002773
I agree on this, tried many commercial stuff and this by far works the best.
 
50:50 refined coconut oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works much better than the lanolin mix, doesn't stink or get gummy like the lanolin mix.
I have used a lube pad of my own making for the past 10 years or more. I don't lube pistol cases, but will lube straight wall rifle cases llike 45/70 and 450 Bushmaster.
 
50:50 refined coconut oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works much better than the lanolin mix, doesn't stink or get gummy like the lanolin mix.
I have used a lube pad of my own making for the past 10 years or more. I don't lube pistol cases, but will lube straight wall rifle cases llike 45/70 and 450 Bushmaster.
Got a link to the coconut oil?

I agree the lanolin gets EXTREMELY sticky if left on the cases for too long.
 
Prison Lube

IMG_4082.jpeg
 
Got a link to the coconut oil?

I agree the lanolin gets EXTREMELY sticky if left on the cases for too long.
I believe I am the only one pitching this on the 'net.
I still have 1/2 a jar left. I found out, a few months ago, that it works great as a tapping fluid.
Note, it's a soft solid below 70°F.
This weekend, I'll repost my method with pictures.
 
50:50 refined coconut oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works much better than the lanolin mix, doesn't stink or get gummy like the lanolin mix.
I have used a lube pad of my own making for the past 10 years or more. I don't lube pistol cases, but will lube straight wall rifle cases llike 45/70 and 450 Bushmaster.
I'll try this on my next batch. I'm down to a tsp of lanolin spray left.

I'm wondering if the solid coconut oil would stay in suspension in alcohol. I'm currently dry tumbling some .40 brass and it has globs of media in the base of some cases. Has to be a booger/collection of lanolin.

(For those wondering why I lube pistol cases; they run smoother. Only reason. Helps find problem brass by feel.)
 
For those wondering why I lube pistol cases; they run smoother. Only reason. Helps find problem brass by feel.)
The only pistol case I find tough to size/de-cap is 9mm, because it's slightly tapered. Sometimes I will use just the slightest touch of a finger on the pad and transfer the slightest amount of lube to the 9mm case when putting it in the press. It makes a huge difference in effort required.
 
The only pistol case I find tough to size/de-cap is 9mm, because it's slightly tapered. Sometimes I will use just the slightest touch of a finger on the pad and transfer the slightest amount of lube to the 9mm case when putting it in the press. It makes a huge difference in effort required.
Interesting. Try some Hornday TiN dies, I have done thousands of 9mm, smooth as can be and never stuck one. I am using mine in a progressive which is also flaring, dropping powder and seating at the same time.
 
Interesting. Try some Hornday TiN dies, I have done thousands of 9mm, smooth as can be and never stuck one. I am using mine in a progressive which is also flaring, dropping powder and seating at the same time.
Good point. I happen to have Lee dies in 9mm. Also .40 and .45 Colt. The Lee's work fine in .40 and .45 Colt. Generally I'm a "Hornady" die guy. The only reason I got Lee for .45 Colt was because I wanted their factory crimp die in the 4-die set, but found out that the "Factory" crimp die is NOT the factory "Collet" crimp die. :(
Bottom line? With die prices being what they are, I'm not buying any dies unless I buy into another caliber.
 

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