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I had a stuck case with one shot. Never had a problem with imperial sizing wax.
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never mind.Ever process 1,500 pieces of brass in one sitting using this? RCBs case lube is small batch and is good for that.
Anything 100 pieces+ need better mass application.
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with the brass standing neck up, I spray lightly, and then roll on a lube pad to spread it and pickup any extra.
Sans the walnut tumbling, this is how I remove lube from the rifle brass.I too am a RCBS lube pad man. Too remove the lube I'll put a couple handfuls of now sized brass on a towel and give them a couple of sprays of alcohol, roll them around a bit and toss them in the walnut. This keeps the walnut cleaner.
I agree on this, tried many commercial stuff and this by far works the best.I've tried every case lube on the market and this home brew is the best. Commercial case lubes are expensive, messy and don't work as well. This home brew consists of liquid lanolin and 99% or 91% isopropyl alcohol. Ratio is 1 part lanolin to 9 parts alcohol. Simply mix it up, put in any spray container and squirt it on your cartridge case. The alcohol is simply to transport and evenly distribute the lanolin. Let it evaporate completely before resizing. I got the lanolin from Amazon for $8 and the alcohol at a drug store for about $4.
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Not sure why people are using lube on pistol rounds. If I need to clean loaded rounds they go in the vibratory tumbler.So how do you guys clean off the one shot after you've loaded pistol rounds?
Rubbing alcohol and roll them around on a towel.So how do you guys clean off the one shot after you've loaded pistol rounds?
Got a link to the coconut oil?50:50 refined coconut oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works much better than the lanolin mix, doesn't stink or get gummy like the lanolin mix.
I have used a lube pad of my own making for the past 10 years or more. I don't lube pistol cases, but will lube straight wall rifle cases llike 45/70 and 450 Bushmaster.
I believe I am the only one pitching this on the 'net.Got a link to the coconut oil?
I agree the lanolin gets EXTREMELY sticky if left on the cases for too long.
I'll try this on my next batch. I'm down to a tsp of lanolin spray left.50:50 refined coconut oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works much better than the lanolin mix, doesn't stink or get gummy like the lanolin mix.
I have used a lube pad of my own making for the past 10 years or more. I don't lube pistol cases, but will lube straight wall rifle cases llike 45/70 and 450 Bushmaster.
The only pistol case I find tough to size/de-cap is 9mm, because it's slightly tapered. Sometimes I will use just the slightest touch of a finger on the pad and transfer the slightest amount of lube to the 9mm case when putting it in the press. It makes a huge difference in effort required.For those wondering why I lube pistol cases; they run smoother. Only reason. Helps find problem brass by feel.)
Interesting. Try some Hornday TiN dies, I have done thousands of 9mm, smooth as can be and never stuck one. I am using mine in a progressive which is also flaring, dropping powder and seating at the same time.The only pistol case I find tough to size/de-cap is 9mm, because it's slightly tapered. Sometimes I will use just the slightest touch of a finger on the pad and transfer the slightest amount of lube to the 9mm case when putting it in the press. It makes a huge difference in effort required.
Good point. I happen to have Lee dies in 9mm. Also .40 and .45 Colt. The Lee's work fine in .40 and .45 Colt. Generally I'm a "Hornady" die guy. The only reason I got Lee for .45 Colt was because I wanted their factory crimp die in the 4-die set, but found out that the "Factory" crimp die is NOT the factory "Collet" crimp die.Interesting. Try some Hornday TiN dies, I have done thousands of 9mm, smooth as can be and never stuck one. I am using mine in a progressive which is also flaring, dropping powder and seating at the same time.