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Barrel threading question.

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by xtratoy, Sep 15, 2011.

  1. xtratoy

    xtratoy Vancouver USA Active Member

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    Went to check into getting a barrel threaded on a bolt action rifle for a muzzle brake. I was told that the machinist would remove the barrel from the action to thread the barrel. I asked to talk to the machinist the gun shop used but shop wouldn't supply that info.I think they are afraid I would try to bypass them. That to me doesn't show a great relationship between the gun shop and machinist. I asked how he would properly index the brake with it off the action. No clear answer. Seems that removing the barrel could possibly effect the position of the recoil lug affecting my bedding job and also possibly affect the headspace of the rifle. My biggest concern is not being offered the ability to talk to the machinist to address my concerns. I don't want a guy with a $300 Harbor Freight lathe messing up my gun. Anybody in the Vancouver/Portland area have a gunsmith they can recommend?
     
  2. Tbucket

    Tbucket Olympia,Wash. Active Member

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    No matter what the barrell has to come off. When I had mine done they did it on site and I talked with the machinist personally and it came out great. Unfortunately I am in Wash. and have no recommendations for you. By the way, best mod I did for taking the bite out of my 300 ultra mag.
     
  3. iGun

    iGun Pacific NW Active Member

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  4. Velzey

    Velzey Estacada, Oregon Gunsmith Gunsmith Bronze Vendor Bronze Supporter

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    On stainless guns I chuck on the receiver and run my stready rest on the barrel just behind where I am turning threads.. Blued guns or stuff that has a custom finish, the barrel has to come off..
     
  5. xtratoy

    xtratoy Vancouver USA Active Member

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    I am in Washington also.
     
  6. rayd8

    rayd8 Formerly Portland, now Alabama! Member

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  7. millwrt52

    millwrt52 Kelso Wa Member

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    Tornado Technologies is a good recommendation. Btw, the barrel does not need to be removed in all cases.
     
    Nwcid and (deleted member) like this.
  8. iamme

    iamme Lane County Well-Known Member

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    Rather then type all again this right here.
     
  9. MountainBear

    MountainBear Sweet Home, OR Well-Known Member

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    No, it doesn't. If you have a pass through spindle on a lathe, the barrel can remain on the action. The rear of the barrel is centered in a cats eye, and the front is bore centered in a four jaw chuck. Now, if the barrel is removed, it can be threaded between centers and will work as well. There are always multiple ways to do things and its rarely wise to use absolutes like "no matter what". I've threaded barrels both ways. Both work.

    As for recomendations, Tornado seems to enjoy a decent reputation, but with a long wait. Todd at Koonce Custom in Salem has also done decent work, but again, usually has a wait...
     
  10. Tbucket

    Tbucket Olympia,Wash. Active Member

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    Sorry about the absolute, there is always more than one way to do things. I like to take my new stuff apart for inspection, so it was an ideal time for me to have it done. I assumed which you know what happens when you assume.
     
  11. Straight Shooter

    Straight Shooter North Bend OR Active Member

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    I can thread and work on the muzzle end with the action in place down to 24".

    062ej.jpg

    I dial in on your bore to less than .0001" concentricity, remove the indicating rod and reinsert it to be sure it is repeatable. It sounds petty for a brake but it pays off in accuracy or in case you ever want to add a supressor. Under 24" I remove the barrel and add an extension so I can still do it in the headstock. No way to really dial one in near as close in a steady rest. Once timed I then bore the interior to exactly .020" over your bullet size perfectly aligned with the actual bore we then contour and blend. If needed I then coat your brake to roughly match your barrel finish.

    089ke.jpg

    When I remove a barrel your barrel and lug index are preserved by some very faint descrete marks I use in some marking compound that once removed leaves no trace. The head space will not change. Even if the lug was out of time a pinch it really should not be bedded tight side to side anyway. Your bedding could be opened up sideways to allow for proper clearance.

    Not only can you talk to me about anytime I will let you watch.
     
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  12. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    SS, that's pretty awesome.

    I just have a beat up old southbend that I work on, what I do when threading my own barrels is machine a tight fitting brass plug that fits down the bore which is countersunk. Then I have a long brass mandrel that goes into the receiver and locks into the back of the chamber, then a few bolts go into the mandrel to hold the receiver in the same position...

    There are a lot of ways to thread barrels without removing them, if you have some kind of large/oddball receiver this is substantially more difficult, but not impossible. I turn stuff between centers, Straight Shooter has another technique that is gives the same results (he does have better gear), and I'm sure there are more out there than this. Shops that get all pissy about having to tear off the barrel and refuse to do it any different way probably arn't worth your time or money.