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Brush and a good cleaning solvent.
Having a rod with a good bearing in it that allows the brush to turn very easily, will assist this cleaning greatly.
Having a rod with a good bearing in it that allows the brush to turn very easily, will assist this cleaning greatly.
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If it can be removed by elbow grease, I prefer otters bore cleaner/treatment and some good old clp.
Larry will show you the proper way.
With high dollar firearms I would only push the cleaning rod from the breach out to the muzzle, then remove the cleaning tip, pull back the rod and then reattach the cleaning tip for another outward stoke, not back and forth.
With high dollar firearms I would only push the cleaning rod from the breach out to the muzzle, then remove the cleaning tip, pull back the rod and then reattach the cleaning tip for another outward stoke, not back and forth.
- Thread Starter
- #5
Ive been using Hopps 9 solvent, but I do have a small bottle of CLP. Not certain if one works better than the other?
I also use nylon brushes so I dont get that green copper color, but maybe I could try a copper brush first then finish with a nylon?
Good video above, looks like I could use some more cleaning accessories, I've been wanting to buy a bore guide and one-piece rod for rifle for a while.
(my photo above is a pistol...)
I also use nylon brushes so I dont get that green copper color, but maybe I could try a copper brush first then finish with a nylon?
Good video above, looks like I could use some more cleaning accessories, I've been wanting to buy a bore guide and one-piece rod for rifle for a while.
(my photo above is a pistol...)
- Thread Starter
- #7
Its my understanding that fouling corrodes...
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My understanding is moisture causes rust. Not carbon and copper.
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- #10
thats why you wouldn't leave moisture in your barrel, or anywhere on the gun. Why would you leave carbon, copper and lead? Fouling attracts moisture...
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Solvent, brush, patch, solvent, brush and a patch. Lightly oil for storage.
How does carbon, copper and lead attract moisture? If the gun is stored properly, there shouldn't be much moisture to attract. Huh, I've never seen a penny or my fishing weights or charcoal for my grill "attract" moisture. Now my beer can, that's another story!
- Thread Starter
- #13
How does carbon, copper and lead attract moisture? If the gun is stored properly, there shouldn't be much moisture to attract. Huh, I've never seen a penny or my fishing weights or charcoal for my grill "attract" moisture. Now my beer can, that's another story!
it gives it a place to collect. Im not much more knowledgeable beyond that, just what Ive understood its really bad to leave fouling in the barrel. If the gun is stored properly it might not be a huge problem, might depend on how long you go between shooting it..... I dont know, I just want to learn how to better, easier get rid of it in mine.
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Hoppe's will dissolve copper, lead fouling, turns it into green gunk
Bronze brushes won't scrape a bore, and will work into copper and lead fouling.
Bronze brushes will dissolve in Hoppe's.
How I clean a barrel:
(save sock, cotton glove, rag for cleaning guns, do not wash, stinks, irritates spousal unit)
Day 1
Wear a sock or cotton glove on holding hand (fingerprints contain salt, corrosion)
Wipe all outside metal surfaces first with Hoppes #9, then wipe with gun oil.
Rag on the floor, muzzle down on the rag.
Bronze Brush dipped in Hoppes, brush the bore 3 to 11 times, chamber to muzzle.
Leave muzzle down, on the rag, in a corner for 24 hours.
Day 2
sock-up, no fingerprints on metal.
Dip a bore patch in Hoppes, run it from chamber to muzzle
note the green, grey scum on the patch and on the rag.
Change to bronze brush, dip in Hoppes, brush the bore as in Day 1.
Leave etc, etc,
Day 3
Same as Day 2
Observe there is less gunk on the rag and patch
Repeat daily until you are satisfied the gunk is almost gone. (will never get rid of some faint residue on the rag)
Hoppe's #9 won't dissolve steel, won't hurt gun if you foreget it for a week or year.
When clean as you want the bore to be, run a brush and patch down the bore soaked in gun oil, comes out clean.
Wipe metal parts down with oiled patch, store in gun safe, gun sock, etc.
Inspect monthly Wear sock, for rust, corrosion.
Bronze brushes won't scrape a bore, and will work into copper and lead fouling.
Bronze brushes will dissolve in Hoppe's.
How I clean a barrel:
(save sock, cotton glove, rag for cleaning guns, do not wash, stinks, irritates spousal unit)
Day 1
Wear a sock or cotton glove on holding hand (fingerprints contain salt, corrosion)
Wipe all outside metal surfaces first with Hoppes #9, then wipe with gun oil.
Rag on the floor, muzzle down on the rag.
Bronze Brush dipped in Hoppes, brush the bore 3 to 11 times, chamber to muzzle.
Leave muzzle down, on the rag, in a corner for 24 hours.
Day 2
sock-up, no fingerprints on metal.
Dip a bore patch in Hoppes, run it from chamber to muzzle
note the green, grey scum on the patch and on the rag.
Change to bronze brush, dip in Hoppes, brush the bore as in Day 1.
Leave etc, etc,
Day 3
Same as Day 2
Observe there is less gunk on the rag and patch
Repeat daily until you are satisfied the gunk is almost gone. (will never get rid of some faint residue on the rag)
Hoppe's #9 won't dissolve steel, won't hurt gun if you foreget it for a week or year.
When clean as you want the bore to be, run a brush and patch down the bore soaked in gun oil, comes out clean.
Wipe metal parts down with oiled patch, store in gun safe, gun sock, etc.
Inspect monthly Wear sock, for rust, corrosion.
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Yeah you don't need three days to clean a gun. Lol. Though I suspect Rick's hands are super acidic. I know a few people like that. I'm one of the lucky ones.
Want to know how I clean my akm/ar rifles? I spray rem oil in the receiver/trigger groups because it's cheap oil. I shoot all the junk out with an air compressor. I boresnake with solvent until clean. Use a second bore snake for otters bore treatment. Rifle is fine. Lol. I'll wipe down everything to fight rust in storage but I'll give you a tip... convert a room into a secure safe. Make your self storage boxes out of osb or plywood. Storing your weapons In wooden crates helps a lot with moisture. Storing your weapons horizontally helps with no oil damaging wooden stocks and keeps most oil in place.
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Other than what's already been mentioned, I recommend Pro-Shot copper solvent. Keep at is until a dry patch comes out clean. Copper fouling is the biggest cause of reduced accuracy in a rifle.
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I will add here that the old school cleaners, such as original Hoppe's 9, are among the lower quality cleaners you can get these days, they've just advance since then.
It doesn't really matter which of the newer ones you get, they're all as effective, normally more so. I will say that if you want, it gives you the option to go non petroleum if you need or want to.
If you really love Hoppe's, you can get their Elite range, which is made for them by MPro7- or just get MPro7
It doesn't really matter which of the newer ones you get, they're all as effective, normally more so. I will say that if you want, it gives you the option to go non petroleum if you need or want to.
If you really love Hoppe's, you can get their Elite range, which is made for them by MPro7- or just get MPro7
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my barrels seem to be more accurate with a little seasoning in them. boresnake and no cleaner... if i do use a cleaner im sure to fire atleast 20rounds before i start taking my POI seriously
I don't particularly enjoy cleaning my firearms. I still do it, don't get me wrong. But I've separated it into general / daily, and deep cleaning. For deep cleaning, to get those groves clean, try Wipe-Out. It's available at Sportsman's and a few other Oregon stores.
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