Are nickel cases special?

[KKG]

In my experience, the nickel plated cases that I have run through a sizing die (IIRC) were easier to run through the die because of the plating - or so it seemed to me.

I'll start by saying I know this is an old Thread but reading through it I only saw this Post that mentioned the Nickel Plated Cases moving easier. The easier movement is what Plating is All about. The Nickel acts as a lubricant but unlike oil type lubricants it is designed to stay on the case and will also protect it from the acids in leather - which Was mentioned. Nickel Plated Cases are simply better.

 

[Certaindeaf]

.Nickel Plated Cases are simply better.

This is why every military in the world uses nickel plated brass.

 

[KKG]

This is why every military in the world uses nickel plated brass.

Isn't it really hard to breath with your head in that position???

 

[Certaindeaf]

Isn't it really hard to breath with your head in that position???

Just the facts, mam.

 

[KKG]

Just the facts, mam.

Also appears to make spelling difficult, too.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Also appears to make spelling difficult, too.

Attaboi. You forgot to capitalize random words though. just saying

 

[The Heretic]

I think CD is being sarcastic -just in case you didn't see that.

CD - the primary reason the military does not nickel plate brass is cost.

 

[KKG]

The H; Not a problem. I've seen enough of his sarcasm/Stupid comments and I hope I'm on his ignore list because he's now on mine. Thanks anyway.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I think CD is being sarcastic -just in case you didn't see that.

CD - the primary reason the military does not nickel plate brass is cost.

I hears ya.
But are they are "simply better" because they cost more? etc. etc. lol
no

 

[The Heretic]

I hears ya.
But are they are "simply better" because they cost more? etc. etc. lol
no

They are better because of the lubricity which helps feeding and extraction.

 

[Certaindeaf]

They are better because of the lubricity which helps feeding and extraction.

But not "simply better" for any military on the planet.

 

[Mikej]

But not "simply better" for any military on the planet.

I figured you could use a "Like" about now.

You're Welcome.

 

[HappyRoman]

Nickel case when reloaded seem shinier and look very nice.. the nickel is harder than the brass and could be harder on dies.

When shooting, most often, others around you are not shooting nickel cases as that ammunition costs more( usually) thus if this is the case, where you shoot, it's easier to retrieve your own spent cases.

 

[KKG]

Nickel case when reloaded seem shinier and look very nice.. the nickel is harder than the brass and could be harder on dies.

When shooting, most often, others around you are not shooting nickel cases as that ammunition costs more( usually) thus if this is the case, where you shoot, it's easier to retrieve your own spent cases.

I've only been Reloading for a short time, about 600 months, but I've found that Nickel Plated Brass is much easier on dies because it doesn't pick up dirt the same way Regular Brass does. I've been using the same set of Carbide(.38/.357) Dies for longer than I can remember and I examine the dies before every use. Zero signs of wear. I guess I will have to say I like Nickel Plated Brass.

 

[noylj]

Once again, nickel can flake off and "embed" in carbide ring and cause "racing stripes" down the case. Nickel makes the case more brittle and you lose cases faster.
That being said, if nickel is your thing, go for it, but it isn't BETTER, it was once simply there to prevent ammo corrosion and staining of leather ammo belts. Now, it is just pretty.
I feel NO difference when sizing brass or nickel and really doubt any one else could is they closed their eyes and guessed.
The fact that someone could be INSULTED by a simple TRUE statement is hardly shocking given the snow-flake attitudes of so many.

 

[simplypete]

Just my experience with nickel plated brass, revolver edition...

Years ago, I'm given a Taurus 617 titanium .357 magnum. Excited, I buy a box of 357 rounds and head to the range with my friend. I let him go first and about 3 shots in he turns to me and says "it's jammed!" What? A revolver that jams? I take it from him and sure enough, trigger wouldn't budge. I go to drop the cylinder and it was stuck. I finally drop the cylinder and the fired brass wouldn't come out. I had to pound away at it to get the spent brass unstuck and clear the cylinder.

So I head down to my local shop and tell the owner about my experience. He never heard of such a thing. He also just happened to have a used 617 on the shelf and we took it to his indoor range. Loaded some 357, same thing. Gun jams after a few shots, etc, etc. Get a box of 38, no issue! Finally, the gun store guy says, "why don't you try these?" and hands me a box of 357 with nickel plated brass. Ran through the entire box, no jam, no problem to eject.

I scoured the Taurus documentation for that gun and nowhere did it mention running specific rounds when shooting 357. I learned the hard way to only use nickel when shooting 357

 

[Argonaut]

Just my experience with nickel plated brass, revolver edition...

Years ago, I'm given a Taurus 617 titanium .357 magnum. Excited, I buy a box of 357 rounds and head to the range with my friend. I let him go first and about 3 shots in he turns to me and says "it's jammed!" What? A revolver that jams? I take it from him and sure enough, trigger wouldn't budge. I go to drop the cylinder and it was stuck. I finally drop the cylinder and the fired brass wouldn't come out. I had to pound away at it to get the spent brass unstuck and clear the cylinder.

So I head down to my local shop and tell the owner about my experience. He never heard of such a thing. He also just happened to have a used 617 on the shelf and we took it to his indoor range. Loaded some 357, same thing. Gun jams after a few shots, etc, etc. Get a box of 38, no issue! Finally, the gun store guy says, "why don't you try these?" and hands me a box of 357 with nickel plated brass. Ran through the entire box, no jam, no problem to eject.

I scoured the Taurus documentation for that gun and nowhere did it mention running specific rounds when shooting 357. I learned the hard way to only use nickel when shooting 357

Only use Nickel in a Taurus...... I load my best revolver and 45ACP cartridges in nickle cases whenever I can. My "social work" ammo doesn't get fired often and I like the corrosion resistance with them. I have never had an issue (in 45 years of handloading) with cases hardening or flaking. Cases in general work harden with use and I have had occasion to anneal expensive cases from time to time.

 

[CHLChris]

@noylj Every time I run my Dillon progressive handle on a nickel-plated brass case I can TELL! The sizing die is much smoother-running on a nickel case. If I was running a single-stage, I may not be able to notice, but a progressive really broadcasts what kind of case through the handle!

@elsie Concerning OAL, if I get anywhere (with 40S&W) from 1.125 to 1.130, I'm good. I get all sorts of variation and don't care one bit. I certainly see 1.125 to 1.128 with all sorts of mixed cases. If you're talking competition or range fodder, what's the difference?

If you're loading SD ammo, then don't mix your cases anyway. If I was loading XTP's for SD or HD or something requiring real bullets like that, I'd be picking out just the Winchester brass cases, or Starline brass, or find a source for nickel-plated cases of one manufacturer like Speer or Federal. And keep the mixed headstamp collection for your range fodder.

 

[41mag]

Not having the time to review all the past comments here, obviously inserting my own opinion will calm everybody down, eh?

In 12 years of shooting/reloading 45LC for SASS matches, case splitting of nickle plated vs brass brass , ran over 2:1 by actual count. Some matches there would be zero splits, and sometimes as many as 4 or 5. Figure approx. 500 rounds/month reloaded over a year gives 6000 reloads x 12 years = 72000 reloads. There was a few years I used 38 special but the brass/nickle cases were about the same performance as the 45LC. Lower moderate cowboy recipes, some with the Holy Black, were the norm.

Losing brass to the splitting was not a big deal (averaged >2% per match x twice a month x 180 rounds each month + practice). The occasional split during actual reloading process was usually a nickle case. Granted much of my ammo had been reloaded dozens of times over a couple decades. The brass brass splits tended more to mouth splits than body splits by about 3:2, while the nickle brass splits were virtually all body splits with maybe 20% extending from case mouth to about 3/4 length of case. Never did trace the splits to any particular firearm as that changed from time to time. Reloading dies were replaced at least once during that time as well.

What's impressive to me was the extended life span and reloading life of such marvelous bits of metal, whatever the composition.

 

[Spitpatch]

With a fascination for calibers that are weird, I am required to anneal prior to some forming operations. Nickel cases are a "no-no" for this.
Other than that, I think they're pretty cool looking if nothing else. Use 'em for a lot of loads where annealing is not performed.