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I need to think about this. I dont really have any complaints with my rifle except I will never load up those quad rails but otherwise its a nice setup.

I dont mind investing in proper tools but by the time I add up those into the cost Im already looking at complete uppers I can buy brand new and could consider selling my old upper used, would be so much easier.
 
I need to think about this. I dont really have any complaints with my rifle except I will never load up those quad rails but otherwise its a nice setup.

I dont mind investing in proper tools but by the time I add up those into the cost Im already looking at complete uppers I can buy brand new and could consider selling my old upper used, would be so much easier.
Well it comes down to what is the quality of your upper and parts you want to add on it. That upper looks like a rebranded BCA upper. I recently helped buy a 450BM for a friend though midway and later looked on the BCA website and its identical down to the specs. Kind of POed at Midway about that as they charged an extra couple hundred for it cause they had it in stock I hope I am wrong and the put some quality control behind it cause I have had issues with BCA

If you have a quality upper and you want a quality rail it's worth doing it yourself, If not and you have some PSA or BCA upper then yeh dump it amd move along.
 
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If you have a quality upper and you want a quality rail it's worth doing it yourself, If not and you have some PSA or BCA upper then yeh dump it amd move along.
mine has been a great rifle but its not a high end upper or barrel. I only paid 270 for it complete back then, from a small startup that went out of business not long after buying.
Im not fond of the Stoner house brand but it would be equal to what I have is my guess. But im already looking at PSAs website and and damn near close to just buying it now.

 
I would go with a PSA over whatever it is that Midway is selling not saying stoner is bad I just don't know their source. I have used many stoner parts with no issues at all.
 
What is you current barrel nut, it is GI or proprietary? May require a specific wrench. I would check if you gas block is aluminum, if is replace it. I would also dimple the barrel if it is not done, which I'd bet it is not. This will require a proper size jig, tjhis one is for a .75" gas block journal. https://slrrifleworks.com/750-dimpling-jig/. Do one dimple only opposite of othe gas port. Get some proper anti-seize to put on the barrel nut. This will last most people forever. https://www.amazon.com/AEROSHELL-33MS-Synthetic-MIL-SPEC-Barrel/dp/B01M5J6J0A


Best option for you.
I've used this Wheeler upper tool: Wheeler For the most part, it's just unbolt two screws to remove the hand guard. The bigger question is does the new hand guard clear your gas block and mate up to your existing upper.

I will not use these types for torquing a barrel nut, there is too much risk to damage your upper.

This one is cheaper but might leave scuffs in the finish of your upper receiver if not careful but puts no pressure on your lugs like the one above but I have never had the lugs break using the one above and I have to torques the poo out of some.

^^^This one is your safest bet, it is what I use if takedown an unknown upper. I would not worry above scuff marks, never had a problem on MilSpec anodizing a little oil and they go away. I use a reation rod for assembly because they are so flexible and easy to use, but unless your working on ARs a lot the are pretty pricey.
 
I will not use these types for torquing a barrel nut, there is too much risk to damage your upper.
Have you broke one or heard of one breaking? I have taken apart and assembled welll over 200 uppers using one of those and torqued the crap out of some of them to line up the gas tube port and never bent or broke a single receiver. Somebody would have to be doing it wrong to damage a upper receiver with one of those.
 
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I assume you have a LPGB as you state it is under the rail. Is that correct?
yes, its a LPGB. Whats interesting is when I built mine about 8ish years ago I remember you giving me advice here on building my lower receiver and was very happy with the outcome especially your recommending the milspec buffer tube.


Note to all, ive decided to go a different direction with this and simply just now purchased a PSA complete upper, with the handguard I want of course.
So Im no longer needing to replace my existing handguard... will sit on it for a while and think about selling it.
 
Have you broke one or heard of one breaking? I have taken apart and assembled welll over 200 uppers using one of those and torqued the crap out of some of them to line up the gas tube port and never bent or broke a single receiver. Somebody would have to be doing it wrong to damage a upper receiver with one of those.

Yes. Will Larson had a box of broke uppers from people using them. A google search will show a ton of threads of people doing it.
 
Yes. Will Larson had a box of broke uppers from people using them. A google search will show a ton of threads of people doing it.
Interesting. I have yet to break one yet. I wonder if its because its the aluminum one I almost bet that is the problem. I use the High-density polyethylene block the receivers either fit really tight or snug and some just slide in still tight but the aluminum would be based on one measurement so it either fits perfect or loose and they would have to make it the larger of the 2 to make all receivers fit. That little bit of play maybe just maybe could be the cause coupled with bubba trying to put 75lbs of torque on it. Also if someone was to use the wrong size pin the pins I have are snug. Maybe someone with a early colt with larger front pin anything that would break up the equal suport between the front and rear lug.
 
@Koda you change your mind hit me up, I've got all the tools needed to swap hand guards. You can help yourself to using them, I'll just watch and help if needed. Most new guards that have a proprietary barrel nut come with a tool.
 
For the barrel nut a clamshell is the better option IMO
A reaction rod will work but if the nut is really cranky you can shear the alignment pin on the barrel or deform the slot.

Even for assy I use one as it secures the upper from rotating when torquing the barrel nut.
Not a fan of the ones that secure it with two pins, looks like a good way to distort or break the ears on the upper.

For muzzle devices a reaction rod is the better choice as it secures the barrel from rotating in the upper and damaging the alignment pin if it is really tight.

Sometimes you have to buy more than one tool as there is no one tool does it all.
You can get by with other stuff but it usually ends up more effort than it's worth for the end results.

Getting another upper with the features you want is never a bad option either.
 
Interesting. I have yet to break one yet. I wonder if its because its the aluminum one I almost bet that is the problem. I use the High-density polyethylene block the receivers either fit really tight or snug and some just slide in still tight but the aluminum would be based on one measurement so it either fits perfect or loose and they would have to make it the larger of the 2 to make all receivers fit. That little bit of play maybe just maybe could be the cause coupled with bubba trying to put 75lbs of torque on it. Also if someone was to use the wrong size pin the pins I have are snug. Maybe someone with a early colt with larger front pin anything that would break up the equal suport between the front and rear lug.
That's the DPMS "Panther Claw" style upper vise block you speak of, I believe.
When used with the upper in the vertical position, almost all of your torque is flowing through the upper's pin lugs.
You get away with it with lower torque applications.
Here's one with the "mast" which helps to keep the upper from rotating but I still wouldn't trust it.
Panther%20Claw%20AR15-2__15896.1571686810.jpg

You can break an upper when applying too much torque when using a Panther Claw type fixture.
The break looks like this :
Screen-Shot-07-10-21-at-12-49-PM.png
And if the user doesn't stop soon enough, the damage is much worse.

Panther Claw 2.0 is much safer and protects the lower much better.
It looks like this :
317065-7ff7a7abe9df6f127c294da898610d31.jpg

You can make a "top hat" on the table saw out of wood or have a machinist make one up out of HDPE (plastic).


Pro Tip :
If you are using a clamshell fixture and are worried about scuff marks on the receiver, give the receiver a couple of wraps of plastic wrap (Glad wrap) and then clamp it up.
The Brownells clamshell fixture is the best I've seen if you are shopping clamshells.
 
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@Koda you change your mind hit me up, I've got all the tools needed to swap hand guards. You can help yourself to using them, I'll just watch and help if needed. Most new guards that have a proprietary barrel nut come with a tool.
Appreciate this offer, theres a part of me that wants to learn the process but Ive invested in a new upper now. Maybe I will decide to keep my old upper and resume its handguard swap sometime. I appreciate I can get in touch if needed.
 

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