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How hard is it to replace the handguard with a newer one?

I want to replace the short quad rail handguard with a slimmer version without all the rails except the top. Can I just order this kit and will have everything I need to swap it?


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It will have everything you need to install except block for your lower and torque wrench and it wont have what you need to remove your old one unless the nut is the same design. and

Also depending your FSB if its set screw then just a allen wrench to fit it and if it is pinned a hammer and punch. Also make sure you don't have a pinned flash hider.

Also I want to add you made a good choice I have the railed version of that from Midwest Industries and I am happy with and the value of it. And if your first one is a MI the wrenches should be interchangeable as the wrench in the photo looks just like mine.
 
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It will have everything you need to install except block for your lower and torque wrench and it wont have what you need to remove your old one unless the nut is the same design. and

Also depending your FSB if its set screw then just a allen wrench to fit it and if it is pinned a hammer and punch. Also make sure you don't have a pinned flash hider.

Also I want to add you made a good choice I have the railed version of that from Midwest Industries and I am happy with and the value of it. And if your first one is a MI the wrenches should be interchangeable as the wrench in the photo looks just like mine.
flash hider is not pinned, I dont know what my front sight block (FSB?) is like as its under the rail that came with the upper Ive never taken off. I do have a DPMS armorer wrench cause the rail came loose originally...
seems like I can buy this kit and have everything I need, is it possible to do this properly without a vise block?
I dont mind buying a vise block but I also dont see myself ever taking the new handguard off again (of course I said that about that DPMS wrench back then... :p )
 
will this work?


...and will an automotive torque wrench work?
Giant NO to that type.
1) For your job, you are dealing with the UPPER receiver.
You need a vice block that protects the upper receiver.
There are several types. The Panther Claw is the one I would avoid.

That magwell block you posted is for very light work only like cleaning or scope mounting.
 
Assuming you are shopping at Midway to use their free shipping offer. look at these

Best option for you.

This one is cheaper but might leave scuffs in the finish of your upper receiver if not careful but puts no pressure on your lugs like the one above but I have never had the lugs break using the one above and I have to torques the poo out of some.

You buy them use them post them in the classifieds knock couple bucks off and sell them. Someone needing one right away will it.

I personally have started to use a reaction rod but those can be pretty spendy and silly if you are only going to use it once.
 
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Here's a pic of a improvised field type set up that works in a pinch. No BUIS and slide the top block further to the rear. Use bigger clamps, like 3/4" pony (pipe) clamps, if possible. You can us the corner of a sturdy bench to straddle the lugs.
Bmyi2K5l.jpg
Of course, there are much better ways. The receiver blocks on the left, sandwiched between the vise jaws, are what i normally use, That or a MI URR.
MItuz1fl.jpg
 
I used a Brownells clamshell type.
Well built but doesn't work for some receivers.

If I was going to buy one, it would be this type.
It will work with all receivers except carry handle type.
It uses the base idea of the Panther Claw with one important difference.
It has a "top hat" that lets you turn the fixture sideways in the vice to fully support the receiver.

Panther Claw method (vertical) puts most of the torque on the upper's "pin lugs" which is not desirable.
People get away with it when they stay in the lower torque numbers, like below 40 ft lbs to be generous.
Very important to understand the difference in the two methods.
 
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Greatly appreciate all the replies here, Im beginning to think this isnt a simple after work project. I dont know if I have to remove the barrel for this (?) and was just hoping the handguard was replaced on its own. The instructional video in the Midway link I just shared included even more tools like a headspace gauge, gas tube alignment gauge, firing pin protrusion gauge...

Is this even worth it? It might be easier to just buy a brand new complete upper and sell my used one and probably come close enough to even on the upgrade....?
 
I think so.
I wouldn't buy it though.
It's cheesy injection molded.

The one I posted for a few bucks more is machined HDPE.
I would lean toward that one.
yes, but that price doesnt include its own shipping cost where if I buy everything on Midwayusa the shipping is free.
I dont mind investing in proper tools though, its just I dont plan on building ARs or needing to replace the barrel or handguard after this upgrade. So, Id like to do this as cheap as possible not regarding the handguard itself.
 
yes, but that price doesnt include its own shipping cost where if I buy everything on Midwayusa the shipping is free.
I dont mind investing in proper tools though, its just I dont plan on building ARs or needing to replace the barrel or handguard after this upgrade. So, Id like to do this as cheap as possible not regarding the handguard itself.
Then it might be more cost-effective to have it done by a "Black Rifle Competent" gunsmith.
I say that because not all are.
 
Get the proper tools, especially if you plan on doing any additional work in the future (more than likely you will). I personally do not like reaction rods or the vice blocks that use the takedown pins for this type of work. Barrel nuts can be a bear to loosen depending on who or how it was installed and I wouldn't want to put that much torque on the takedown pins or barrel extension. I prefer the clam shell style vice blocks. If you are worried about marring your receiver, put a strip of masking or painters tape on each side of the receiver before putting it into the vice block. I've used a Brownells clamshell vice block for years and it is still going strong.

You don't need a headspace gauge, firing pin gauge, or even a gas tube alignment gauge to replace a handguard. Headspace gauge is a good idea if you are changing barrels or bolts with a lot of use on them, and you are mixing or matching bolts and barrels. The firing pin gauge and gas tube gauge are unnecessary for all but the most specific of uses.
 
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Greatly appreciate all the replies here, Im beginning to think this isnt a simple after work project. I dont know if I have to remove the barrel for this (?) and was just hoping the handguard was replaced on its own. The instructional video in the Midway link I just shared included even more tools like a headspace gauge, gas tube alignment gauge, firing pin protrusion gauge...

Is this even worth it? It might be easier to just buy a brand new complete upper and sell my used one and probably come close enough to even on the upgrade....?
You don't need any of those other parts. Just the parts I mentioned to do the handgaurd.
 
I've used this Wheeler upper tool: Wheeler For the most part, it's just unbolt two screws to remove the hand guard. The bigger question is does the new hand guard clear your gas block and mate up to your existing upper.
 
You don't need those upsale parts they make the job easier. but I did forget to mention you will need a 1/16 punch to knock out the gas tube roll pin.
 

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