A Tutorial On Removing The Grip Locator Pin On An Older Ruger GP100/Redhawk

[Certaindeaf]

A tutorial. Lol, right. This is more to let the world know that these press fit locator pins are something to know about.
I got this GP100 in around the mid-80's and wanted to finally change out the grips to Hogue rubber grips with finger grooves. I never really liked the original factory grips.
I knew that the aluminum grip locator pins in these older guns were swaged into the steel locator hole in the grip, hence my hesitancy swapping the grip years ago.
So anyway, after disassembling the gun, I wacked on the pin with a deadblow hammer many times with no movement even with the grip backed by blocks of wood resting on the concrete floor.
I wound up using a vice, a 3' cheater bar, Aero Kroil penetrating oil, sockets, aluminum and wood vice jaw protectors, and then finally a bag of lead shot to prop the gun up on while I finished it off with a brass punch, socket and a hammer to get the last 1/4" or so out and through the hole.
I ordered the Hogues immediately after the job.. they'll be here Monday.
Here's a couple of pics.

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[Ura-Ki]

A tutorial. Lol, right. This is more to let the world know that these press fit locator pins are something to know about.
I got this GP100 in around the mid-80's and wanted to finally change out the grips to Hogue rubber grips with finger grooves. I never really liked the original factory grips.
I knew that the aluminum grip locator pins in these older guns were swaged into the steel locator hole in the grip, hence my hesitancy swapping the grip years ago.
So anyway, after disassembling the gun, I wacked on the pin with a deadblow hammer many times with no movement even with the grip backed by blocks of wood resting on the concrete floor.
I wound up using a vice, a 3' cheater bar, Aero Kroil penetrating oil, sockets, aluminum and wood vice jaw protectors, and then finally a bag of lead shot to prop the gun up on while I finished it off with a brass punch, socket and a hammer to get the last 1/4" or so out and through the hole.
I ordered the Hogues immediately after the job.. they'll be here Monday.
Here's a couple of pics.

View attachment 1073763View attachment 1073762

See, bigger hammers are always the correct answer! Bet you go big next time, skip all the minor initial steps and go right to the finish and beer thirty one!

Nice work BTW!

 

[Stomper]

A tutorial. Lol, right. This is more to let the world know that these press fit locator pins are something to know about.
I got this GP100 in around the mid-80's and wanted to finally change out the grips to Hogue rubber grips with finger grooves. I never really liked the original factory grips.
I knew that the aluminum grip locator pins in these older guns were swaged into the steel locator hole in the grip, hence my hesitancy swapping the grip years ago.
So anyway, after disassembling the gun, I wacked on the pin with a deadblow hammer many times with no movement even with the grip backed by blocks of wood resting on the concrete floor.
I wound up using a vice, a 3' cheater bar, Aero Kroil penetrating oil, sockets, aluminum and wood vice jaw protectors, and then finally a bag of lead shot to prop the gun up on while I finished it off with a brass punch, socket and a hammer to get the last 1/4" or so out and through the hole.
I ordered the Hogues immediately after the job.. they'll be here Monday.
Here's a couple of pics.

View attachment 1073763View attachment 1073762

You said, "hole".

 

[Certaindeaf]

See, bigger hammers are always the correct answer! Bet you go big next time, skip all the minor initial steps and go right to the finish and beer thirty one!

Nice work BTW!

The later guns are all slip fit and just fall out. I'm all like noooo!.. for decades.

 

[Kruel J]

I remember my dad telling me how he had to take his to a gunsmith to have the Hogues installed because of this apparent "feature". His was made in 1993, or at least bought new in 93.

It still has those Hogues on it to this day and I have no plans to ever change them.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I remember my dad telling me how he had to take his to a gunsmith to have the Hogues installed because of this apparent "feature". His was made in 1993, or at least bought new in 93.

It still has those Hogues on it to this day and I have no plans to ever change them.

It was a bugger but it's done. Finally.
Was never really looking forward to it.

 

[Kruel J]

It was a bugger but it's done. Finally.
Was never really looking forward to it.

Your thread caught my attention immediately. Reminded me of him.

 

[s1xty7]

I have a variety of GP100s from 1989 - 1996 and have never had any such issue with mine. Odd. On my SP101, the locator pin corroded to the frame after a few months of appendix carry (apparently I have a high salt content???). Once I got the locator pin removed, I ordered a short section of delrin rod to cut to length. No more issue.

The thing I have run into with the older GP100s is no access hole in the back of the grip stud to aide in depressing the retention plunger. It's a fiddly process without that hole drilled, but an inventive fellow made a tool that's no longer available that he called the Ruger Popper specifically for the job. Brownell's even made a version for a while. You could try and track one down or make your own by bending up a screwdriver.

Ruger Popper (image borrowed from the web):


Ruger Popper in use (also borrowed from the web; note the access hole present in the rear of the demonstrating grip stud. Older ones didn't have that access hole):


Side note: When looking for GP100s/SP101s, I tended towards older because they didn't start using MIM parts until later (and the font on the barrel stating the model looks cooler). With that said, I've never had any issue with my Rugers with MIM parts either.

 

[titsonritz]

I wouldn't know, I'm an S&W guy.

 

[s1xty7]

I wouldn't know, I'm an S&W guy.

I always found the side plate a potential weak point on the S&W revolvers. Also the screws that hold on the side plate (and the yoke) can work loose if not watched carefully. I have a nickel plated 586 no dash and a 681-1 as well, but much prefer my Rugers for their engineering, although the Smith triggers feel marginally smoother.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I wouldn't know, I'm an S&W guy.

And I wouldn't ether, Mostly a Colt guy, loves me some snek gunz!

 

[titsonritz]

I always found the side plate a potential weak point on the S&W revolvers. Also the screws that hold on the side plate (and the yoke) can work loose if not watched carefully. I have a nickel plated 586 no dash and a 681-1 as well, but much prefer my Rugers for their engineering, although the Smith triggers feel marginally smoother.

I was poking fun at the OP, have and have had both for different reasons.

 

[DLS]

Those old Ruger pins are a bear. I use a tall block of wood with a hole drilled to receive the pin and a huge C-clamp to drive them out.

A S&W trigger return tool works like the old Ruger Popper tool. I'll post a link to what I'm talking about tomorrow when I have a few minutes.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Those old Ruger pins are a bear. I use a tall block of wood with a hole drilled to receive the pin and a huge C-clamp to drive them out.

A S&W trigger return tool works like the old Ruger Popper tool. I'll post a link to what I'm talking about tomorrow when I have a few minutes.

Cool. I use a chopstick. It's always a hassle to take apart.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Those old Ruger pins are a bear. I use a tall block of wood with a hole drilled to receive the pin and a huge C-clamp to drive them out.

A S&W trigger return tool works like the old Ruger Popper tool. I'll post a link to what I'm talking about tomorrow when I have a few minutes.

I had read about people using a C-clamp. I about bent my vice crank rod with a 3' cheater bar is why I'm glad I didn't try. I'm surprised the whole vice didn't just crack in two.

 

[P7M13]

The fact that it's not beaten to sheite is a testament to your method.

 

[DLS]

Here's the S&W tool that does what the Ruger Popper does. To use it come in from the side rather than the Poppers method from the top. It works great.

It works on S&W rebound springs too, go figure, so that's an added bonus!

BROWNELLS S&W REBOUND SLIDE SPRING TOOL | Brownells

Specially bent and slotted tool is really about the only way to get past the frame pin to grab and compress the rebound slide spring while removing or installing the rebound slide. Fits all J, K, L, N and X frames. Will not scratch that valuable f...

www.brownells.com

 

[Certaindeaf]

Well, she's loaded again. Giggity.
Pretty sure I'm going to grind or file off the lowest V point. If I grip it with all my fingers in the grooves my grip isn't high enough and when I grip it properly my pinky is perfectly upon the apex of the bottom V.
My favorite grip back in the day was hardish rubber and very large top to bottom. No finger grooves but pretty skinny up top and large butt. It wasn't a Pachmayr for sure and don't think it was a Hogue. I forget. No worries. This will work.

 

[jbett98]

An arbor press is very handy to have around the shop when you need to control the pressure.

 

[Certaindeaf]

An arbor press is very handy to have around the shop when you need to control the pressure.


View attachment 1075537

I needed The Hydraulic Press Channel's hydraulic press.
Lol