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I recently refurbed the Ruger 10/22 I've owned for about 35 years. It took some abuse during that time and it was showing. It was also really loose in the stock and accuracy was awful. I put in an aluminum pillar bed for the main screw, drilled and tapped the back of the receiver for a second screw (also pillar bedded), glass bedded and free floated the barrel, recrowned the barrel, printed a cheek rest on a 3D printer and epoxied that to the stock, sanded everything down and painted it with Rustoleum camo paints (swirl painted the stock -- 3x before it was halfway decent), and then used a two part matte epoxy topcoat over all the Rustoleum. It'll do a cloud of 25 shots in about 2.5" at 100 yards now depending on ammo. (Edit: almost forgot, put in a Volquartsen hammer and spring kit and shim kit -- trigger is sweet and crisp now)
The part I like the best was the two-part epoxy topcoat -- it feels great: not sandy but not glossy, sort of a river smoothed rock texture. It's holding up as well too having gone through three cleanings without any ill effects at all, but time will tell. The can looks like the same cans that Duracoat uses with the plunger on the bottom to activate, but instead of being near $45 with shipping, it comes in at less than $25 through Amazon: Amazon.com: Usc Spraymax Matte Clearcoat 3680065: Automotive
The only thing I truly borked, was on the third coat of the receiver, literally just minutes from being done, I held the nozzle too close and it left a permanent light spot (see the 2nd to last photo, red arrow). I considered sanding it off and starting over, but after doing the swirl paint on the stock three times, I felt I was just done and I was going to live with it. For the stock, I used the spray can swirl paint method in the end (using model paints just didn't work for me) sort of like here:
I went a little too fast and got some bare spots, but still, I'm pleased with the result despite the defects. The last photo, bottom arrow, shows the worst of the bare spots. The top arrow points to the cheek rest I printed and epoxied to the stock which really makes using a scope easier.
The part I like the best was the two-part epoxy topcoat -- it feels great: not sandy but not glossy, sort of a river smoothed rock texture. It's holding up as well too having gone through three cleanings without any ill effects at all, but time will tell. The can looks like the same cans that Duracoat uses with the plunger on the bottom to activate, but instead of being near $45 with shipping, it comes in at less than $25 through Amazon: Amazon.com: Usc Spraymax Matte Clearcoat 3680065: Automotive
The only thing I truly borked, was on the third coat of the receiver, literally just minutes from being done, I held the nozzle too close and it left a permanent light spot (see the 2nd to last photo, red arrow). I considered sanding it off and starting over, but after doing the swirl paint on the stock three times, I felt I was just done and I was going to live with it. For the stock, I used the spray can swirl paint method in the end (using model paints just didn't work for me) sort of like here:
I went a little too fast and got some bare spots, but still, I'm pleased with the result despite the defects. The last photo, bottom arrow, shows the worst of the bare spots. The top arrow points to the cheek rest I printed and epoxied to the stock which really makes using a scope easier.
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