A fancy 9mm case?

Mikej

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Point taken. Wasn't thinking. Yup. Note to self. Go to bed when tired.
Luckily my memory has changed some as I get older. I'm certain I've done simple dumb stuff like that, but I don't recall it at this time. I'm pretty sure if I were to get to where I was going to repeat the dumb move I'd remember enough to keep from doing it again.
 
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@MooseD Crazy idea incoming...

Assuming you can remove the decapping pin:
Take out the decapping pin. Chuck up the die in a vise upside down, taking care not to damage the die. Now find a bolt with the largest head possible that still fits within the case. Place the bolt upside down in the die. Now with a hammer and punch, start peening back as much of the case from being flared outward to being flared inward and upward around the bolt. Now thread the largest nut you can to the end of the bolt and with one swift yank hopefully the case will come out.

I don't know about what lubrication would make the most sense for this application, maybe someone on this board might be able to chime in but that might be worth some research.
 
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My first thoughts were kroil or WD-40. But again, metallurgy is something I am admittedly ignorant about. My three questions would be, would this lubricant react with any component of the die, would it leave an inaccessible residue, and lastly would it actually be effective between these two different types of metals?
 

RVTECH

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Try this -

Remove the decapping stem.

Get a piece of brass rod about 1/8' or a bit larger in diameter and about an 1" or so longer than the die. Insert it into the stem opening and rest the edge of the brass rod on the edge of the mouth of the case and against the inside wall of the die.

Keep the brass rod snug on the mouth of the case with a couple fingers while holding the die give the end of the brass rod a rap with a SMALL hammer. Rotate the rod about a 1/8th around the case mouth and rap again.

Continue to rotate and hammer and see of the case starts moving out of the die.

Be patient and do not use a 32 oz framing hammer for this! Use a small hammer with a relatively small diameter head.
 
OP
M
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Try this -

Remove the decapping stem.

Get a piece of brass rod about 1/8' or a bit larger in diameter and about an 1" or so longer than the die. Insert it into the stem opening and rest the edge of the brass rod on the edge of the mouth of the case and against the inside wall of the die.

Keep the brass rod snug on the mouth of the case with a couple fingers while holding the die give the end of the brass rod a rap with a SMALL hammer. Rotate the rod about a 1/8th around the case mouth and rap again.

Continue to rotate and hammer and see of the case starts moving out of the die.

Be patient and do not use a 32 oz framing hammer for this! Use a small hammer with a relatively small diameter head.
i'm going to home depot to look for brass rod now.
 
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I’m planning on freezing it (shrink the case), and wedge a small thin object with a sharp edge between the casing and the die wall to creat a small slit, then peel that aluminum crap off the die.

Like to hear if any better approaches? I love my Redding die. Gotta try to save it!
The stainless case is necked down to form a primer tube, and used like a rivet to hold the base on. So, if you didn't rip the primer tube off the bottom of the case wall, tap it for a screw, then pull the case out with the screw, or use the screw like a gear puller to push the case out of the die. Soak the case inside and out with a penetrating oil that can get into really tight tolerances (I'm partial to kroil) before trying to budge it. Also, maybe use a brass screw to keep from damaging the internals of the die, and finer threads for more leverage. Maybe reenforce the primer tube too so the thin metal doesn't just expand when you start putting force on it.

Let us know how it goes.
 
OP
M
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The stainless case is necked down to form a primer tube, and used like a rivet to hold the base on. So, if you didn't rip the primer tube off the bottom of the case wall, tap it for a screw, then pull the case out with the screw, or use the screw like a gear puller to push the case out of the die. Soak the case inside and out with a penetrating oil that can get into really tight tolerances (I'm partial to kroil) before trying to budge it. Also, maybe use a brass screw to keep from damaging the internals of the die, and finer threads for more leverage. Maybe reenforce the primer tube too so the thin metal doesn't just expand when you start putting force on it.

Let us know how it goes.
Unfortunately I've managed to rip the base off. I’m definitely learning a lesson here. More update by tomorrow.

C99F72AE-3859-4D72-B986-08E05764EBAF.jpeg
 
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Freeze The assembly overnight.
Mount vertically with die mouth down.
Use a propane torch on the lowest flame setting to heat the die body in the threaded area, trying to equally distribute the heat around the die. You don't want the flame or its hot gasses to touch the case at all - just the die.
Stainless 300 (more so), 400 & 17 series have both lower coefficients of thermal expansion and lower thermal conductivity than tool steel.
If you do it right, it'll fall out or just need a light tug on the jagged edge.
Good luck.
Interesting case concept, one where I would prefer to use a rollsizer like @Helocat .
 
OP
M
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The Redding die is back alive!

Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the advice.

I took the freezer approach (didn’t torch the brass) with the brass rod to tap it out. It actually ended up going up the die instead of back down after I tapped out the bottom portion.

Few learnings:
- Only use the die for the intended cartridges.
- Avoid trying new things when I’m dead tired.
- There are wise people on NWF that I can learn a thing or two from.

Thank you all for rescuing a Redding die!
 

DLS

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Glad the case is out. If the freeze / heat approach fails you can epoxy a rod inside the stuck case and then pull it out that way.

As far as these cases, they are half the weight and less expensive than brass, more corrosion resistant than brass, magnetic for easier range pickup, have more internal volume so you can either get more velocity (they are stronger than brass) or the same velocity at less pressure and recoil and can be reloaded pretty much forever.

As you are now well aware however, they need special dies.
 

Certaindeaf

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The Redding die is back alive!

Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the advice.

I took the freezer approach (didn’t torch the brass) with the brass rod to tap it out. It actually ended up going up the die instead of back down after I tapped out the bottom portion.

Few learnings:
- Only use the die for the intended cartridges.
- Avoid trying new things when I’m dead tired.
- There are wise people on NWF that I can learn a thing or two from.

Thank you all for rescuing a Redding die!
Darn it. I was going to get all cute by saying freeze it with some freon, yada yada.. followed by "and then kick it into the creek and walk away".

lol
 

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