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Discussion in 'Rifle Discussion' started by Reno911, Mar 13, 2015.
So I'll soon to be a 300 win mag owner. More specifically a remmy 700 long range.
That was weird. Stupid tapatalk.
Any ways I was going to ask if anyone has some good info on this rifle, and possibly a few good starting loads for 700-1000 yard shots.
For shots that long, you'll want at least a 175gr bullet. With a 168gr, I get good accuracy to 800 yards, OK accuracy to almost 900 yards, but at 1000+, the bullet is too light. In my opinion, and from my experience. The 220gr MK's are phenomenal over 1000 yards. Guys I shoot with use RL22 and H4831 and 4831SC. The 300WM can be a punisher if you're simply shooting from a bench. After 70 rounds, I start flinching. A 300WM with a brake is great for the shooter, but not so great for the shooters around you.
On a side note, you hardly ever see big 30 cals in long range competitions anymore. I was a range officer for a shoot a little while ago, and there were no 30's. Everyone was shooting either a 6mm or 6.5mm cartridge. The winning team were both shooting .243 Winchesters. One guy had a SWEET .270 Win, and another shot a 7mm-08, but the clear advantage went to the 6 and 6.5mm rifles. That is why I'll be rebarreling my rifle very soon.
Like starting up any load pick about four projectiles you wish to hunt with and understand exactly why you made those choices. Next select from your reloading manuals the speed and powder you wish to drive the projectile, select the primers based on the load data for each. Clean, trim and size your brass then deburr. You are ready to set up loading three cases at a time. Starting at the lowest powder recommendations on up to the pressure at which your particular chamber indicates warning signs. I use a color code on the primers and my loading bench paper copy color coded the same, indicates the load data so as to keep track. Keep a written record of every 3 group you shoot by indicating written information including brand, size and weight = bullet, powder, case and primer on each target you shoot [several to a page works sometime]. Save this target record it will be very important as time goes by and you later start to understand more about all the things you can do with your brass so as to more customize and true your finished product.
Did I mention if the first four projectiles don't do what you want after a few hundred or so rounds, pick four more sooner or later you will find out what makes your long gun into a shooter.
There is no magic it takes a lot of time and dedication but once you have it you are good till the bullet or powder gets discontinued or changed. So be advised.
Thanks for the replies.
I'll have to see what powders I can get, it sounds like a good amount of various powders work well. I've heard the 208 grain bullets do well, as well as the 220s. I'll likely start with those two.
I will definitely consider getting this gun threaded for a brake. I've seen before and after's of muzzle rise with and without a brake. Without a spotter this gun would be useless if not controlled.
I've got some time though. This guns in layaway jail. Then there is the scope to figure out. I have a Vortex on my 308 with the EBR2 MOA reticle. I'll probably stick with that. So I'll likely safe the rifle until the money comes in for the optic.
im by no means a "bench shooter" just a country boy who shoots alot. i have a savage 116 in 300wm. i use 71gr rl22 under 200gr accubonds as a hunting round. farthest ive shot a target was 600 yrd with good results.
I picked up a box of Hornady 208 grain BTHPs. Was going to get something in 220, but nothing was available. Brass was all out too.
I never have used a big bullet at long range that was a hollow point design and I have no idea how they will perform.
I have used the same game bullet in my .300 Win. mag. and have made thin skin kills at 40 yards +- with great results, no blood shot. Then I have taken thick skinned animals with the same bullet out passed 400 yards and could not believe how well it did out there. Many animals have fallen large and small and the jacket held to the lead every time. This is also a major consideration wile you are testing. Shoot and recover that projectile, you will need to know there condition, fragmented or separated from the core are a poor choice for game, no matter how accurate.
If you bought the 700 "long range", you'll have a 26 inch heavy barrel and the stock is kind of a pig. You won't likely need a brake on such a heavy rifle.
The 700 long action is 375 length and will give you a lot of latitude in seating depth. Its also a 10 twist, so you'll be able to use whatever bullet you want.
There isn't much in the way of online reviews and YouTube vids for this rifle yet, but one guy in Australia has a few up of it before and after a brake. It definitely looks to assist with follow up. I'll probably put a few trial loads through it without a brake 1st. If I think I can manage it, it will stay unthreaded.
Good to hear that the action allows for longer cols. I'll have to measure her up upon arrival.
This rifle won't see game likely. It might down the road, but mainly it will be an addition to my gong squad.
Just remember if you do hunt with it choose a bullet that does not frag. or de-jacket.
My most accurate rounds are not suitable for hunting ammunition, if you have no intentions of hunting your work developing a 100 yard round under MOA is increased tremendously. If you start shooting three in one hole at 100 yards the results at 800 or 1,000 yards are much more consistent.
For instance 1.5'' moa @ 100 yards = 3'' @200yards =6''@300 yards = 12'' @400yards and so on.
It has been years since I have been involved in the formulas so it is just the short version as I remember it and my memory is not perfect by any means.
I always enjoyed shooting at a slide or a rock face across the canyon with a twenty foot +- hold over and hitting the target 1/2 mile away. The best part is watching the person or persons with you trying to make the same shot. One very close friend of mine actually went out and purchased a new rifle. It didn't quite do it for him, Not understanding the importance in the details he just wanted a hand full of those good bullets I had to shoot.
Thanks for the advice.
I've recovered some 168 grain Sierra MK and hornady's from my 308 at 800 yards and they held together well hitting the embankment. I would think the 208 hornady or 220 MKs should do the same. If not I'll try a few Amaxs or something similar in a ballistic tip.
Doing this at close range [100 yards or less] helps us in finding a bullet that will not destroy the game animal when the shooting is done within our most likely, very short range targets.
This does happen.
If its gong squad, you're options are infinite. I tend to use cheaper target bullets for this kinda stuff. SMKs, Hornady BTHP, etc. Its funny how a bigger case like the 300 Winny changes how a bullet acts. That increased velocity increases drag, so that same 175gr SMK acts different than if you shot it out of a 308.
220SMK is just a starting point... the 2850 fps takes a pretty stout load so work up to it.
*edit: FWIW Hodgdon lists the max load at 78 grains of H-1000 at 2750 out of a 24" 1:10. Start at 73 grains and find a node that works.
230 OTM is another pill to try, but it's all down to the nut behind the trigger.
in my 300 win mag and 300 rum I shoot either a 180 round nose sierra or a 220 round nose in Hornady my guns like the IMR 4350 with the round nose
If its this one you should think about getting a brake.
I wanted one for a short insane moment of my life, then I realized it would kick worse than my 7 MM Rem Mag. I don't use it enough to justify something I would use less.
Speaking of the 7mag, the Remmy 700 in particular. I saw a guy at DRRC with a 700 in 7mag and in 11 rounds he couldnt take any more. His two buddies shot two each and told him to throw the gun away.
Now, my 7mag takes 63g's of powder give or take. If the 300 is using 71 then you better be wearing a thick shirt on shootin day.