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Barrel and receiver don't need to be a matching set. It's a very forgiving setup.
Just don't be removing and reattaching excessively. This is why the hole in receiver is a good idea.
This will definitely work out very well. I discovered this by myself and so far, its been Really Good! It cleans and dry in 5 minutes, leaving a "Medium Film" of light silicone grease. This will actually work on that 10/22 receiver from the front trigger side then draining to the rear portal window.

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This will definitely work out very well. I discovered this by myself and so far, its been Really Good! It cleans and dry in 5 minutes, leaving a "Medium Film" of light silicone grease. This will actually work on that 10/22 receiver from the front trigger side then draining to the rear portal window.

View attachment 1822982
Hit it with a little compressed air too . Blast that crap out of there.
 
I just spoke to Tactical Solutions. The material is Chromemoly (Like a 4130 or 4140) hardened steel sleeve on a .920 6061 aluminum outer barrel. It weights 15 oz. Any they guarrantee that it will not just scar on CCi Mini-Mag or Standard Velocity. Guaranteed that it will maintain grouping on certain range and the barrel will not potato chip.

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Last night I worked on the Ruger 10/22's BX-25 stove piping issue and and cleaned the whole rifle again. Boy I had a rough time cleaning the barrel since I started using the rounded lead ammos. Anyways I took it to the range this morning to try it out. So far on a 235 round 22LR, I experienced 4 which is a lesser stove piping this time using my el-cheapo rounds. I was able to dial the sight slowly getting closer to dead on.

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I shoot suppressed and love that barrel above with the extended suppressor cover which counts toward barrel length.
So a Sparrow or other suppressor doesn't ADD length. Great idea back then and those were in short supply.

When the weather is a little nicer I want to try out tighter twist barrels and 60g ammo. Years ago did a bonehead move shooting 60g through an Osprey 9mm suppressor and the subsonic floppy bullet grazed it up.

The Osprey was my very first suppressor for 22lr and 9mm and 30Carbine. Osprey was nice enough to send me a replacement core for free.
 
EDIT: one thing I forgot to mention. When I sighted in the scope I found out that even with maximum elevation it was shooting low. It turns out it is a common problem with some 10/22s
We make our Ruger 10/22 scope bases with 15MOA for that reason
 
I just got one, why does it hang so far over the barrel?
View attachment 1847111
We did that to give it more mounting space for a scope. The rear of the receiver has a slight slope, which created a gap towards the rear, so we pushed it forward to allow plenty of mounting slots for a scope. It also comes in handy since many newer scopes have longer eye relief, allowing the scope to be pushed out a little further.

Ruger 10/22 with Shaw Barrel, Blackhawk stock, Primary Arms Scope with Warne Picatinny 15MOA Base, Warne Maxima Horizontal Split Rings, and Skyline Bipod with ARCA head.

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Ruger 10/22 with Shaw Barrel, KRG Chassis, Primary Arms Scope with Warne Picatinny Scope mount, Warne Maxima Horizontal Split Rings, and Skyline Bipod with Picatinny head.

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Ruger 10/22 with Primary Arms Scope with Warne Picatinny Scope mount, Warne Maxima Horizontal Split Rings.

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There are also many MORE things you can do if you first build it as a Charger Takedown pistol, using either a teardown Charger receiver or a virgin BRN22 or similar. :D

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This way you have both a .22 rifle and pistol on one 4473. :)
 
Hit it with a little compressed air too . Blast that crap out of there.
I forgot to mention. I did put a hole in the back side. Its a lot better and faster to clean it. Now I can use it more and I just hit the back side with dry-lube.
Yesterday I thought about cleaning it good and I made a small change on my cleaning process. I used a medium a mount of the regular WD-40 to remove the gunk and blow it off with 40 psi air compressor. The regular WD-40 didn't dry enough as I was expecting. So I hit it with the WD-40 specialist. That's when it dry and lube to normal. I'm not sure of that WD-40 regular was a good idea or preliminary cleaning.
Surprisingly when start doing the dry lube, all of my firearm was able to maintain its fresh looks like this TX-22 that I fired approximately 7,500 rounds, beside its flawless in and out, I have never changed 1 part on this firearm yet. The slides are firm, no slacks or rattling at all. Hopefully I get more of the same on the Ruger 10/22. But so far so good and it performs very well.

Taurus_Tx22_1.jpg Taurus_Tx22_2.jpg Taurus_Tx22_3.jpg
 
I just finished my build around christmas. I cleaned and assembled properly. The biggest thing I figured out is if you clean the rotary mags with solvent or brake cleaner be sure to oil the mags afterwords. I forgot to oil mine and it jammed on all my cleaned mags even brand new ones. I spayed them down with clp and went 400 rounds with 0 issues.
 
Isn't brake cleaner spray or solvent a very hard chemical to use? Or are there some that are softer and environmentally safe?
Normally brake cleaners are organochlorides.

Organo is in the name, so they are perfectly fine....


/nr





Edit, adding: yup, they are pretty nasty. However all things considered do a great job de-greasing. Used wisely, their use you would use (minimally) makes up for any other time/expense/effort you would otherwise expend accomplishing the same goal. Clean parts.

Think of it as your own personal carbon footprint offset bank.
 

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