No, it's finding the limit of travel for the erector lens carrier. It's a hard stop. The measurements are the X (windage) and Y (elevation) of the erector. You have that full range of movement. Otherwise, shooters would drive the carriage into the side of the tube externally and cause internal misalignment.
except that X typically has half the range as Y. Thats a limitation.
You can zero for a 5" MPBR with a zero or 20MOA base. Just understand that that 5"MPBR is only for the range you figure it out to be, which is typically your position of shooting out to where your drop is ~4".
ahhhh, got it now. Were just talking about the nearside end of the range.
Point. However, only once have I ever needed a windage adjustment past 3 MOA. Not so for vertical.
I think weve zeroed in on the subject (pun intended... had to use it
)
LOL. Need / schmeed. Go push the limits of your AI and find out how far you can go before you start to do holdovers. COSSA?
Im primarily a hunter but am curious about long range shooting. I think it would be fun to learn how to hit a gong way out there.
I learned a lot from your participation so likewise, thank you.
Im gathering this from this thread and rolling with it because as Ive noted my primary use is hunting and I wont be hunting long range like 1000yds. I kept the questions based on long range shooting (not hunting) to learn the differences and tradeoffs between the two base options. Im already familiar enough with 0moa bases for hunting.
Here is where setting Zero to the rifles natural ballistic zero, or point blank range zero will really pay off for you, once you have that zero set, you can shoot to see where you are at shorter ranges, and adjust your hold. most decent scopes these days have MOA stadia above the center for just that reason, and by setting it up that way, you are actually using much more of what that scope has built in, so your 31 MOA becomes closer to 50+!
The problem with this is thats not how my scope is designed to be used.
www.leupold.com
I put a dot on the wall and line up the muzzle to that dot, then while looking through the scope, reach way out there to the wall and squirm around until I can get a dot to line up with the cross hairs of the scope and then I have a good measurement I can use. You could use fancy lasers and levels and strait edges to get the same results, but I don't have all those things handy, this seems to work well enough with out any complications, and it accounts for the mechanical marriage of scope to rifle, but not a tipped base, that's more then mechanical, now your into complex geometry!
Punch the different values into your ballistic calculator for height over bore, note the impact to your drop table. You will find it doesn't have a significant impact to your firing solution out to 1000 yards. All this to say, your ballistic calculator will help with answering different questions by inputting alternative values so you can see the impact on your firing solution. Now it is worth doing things right since the more accurate your inputs the better data that is output. I only point this out so you have a realistic view of what inputs have minimal vs. significant impacts to your firing solution.
