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Made a 2 piece mount for my 30.06 M76 this morning. Threads on the M76 are 22x3 mm LH metric trapezoidal and theyre tapered too on top of being interupted. Not really acme as theyre almost crested like standard metric 55 degree. Too much going on there for my old standard only Hendey lathe . Bought a tap, cut the taper to the base and made a mid mount sleeve to all fit into a GSL multical . Solid as a rock and bore concentric.

Everyone should have the only one of something :)

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I can do it . You need a suppressor big enough for an 8mm that has large pattern threads . I use the multi cal for my 30 cal version just because it has a deep enough throat to take the 76's manliness er I mean flash suppressor. If you pick a suppressor that doesn't have enough bore depth I can still do it its just going to stick out the back a bit more.

On stuff like this I usually charge flat rate based on shop rate depending how long I think it will take based on what materials I use . Shop rate is $100 hr and for a 6061 base and 304 extension you'd be looking at 2 hrs so $200 and I dont charge for material if its something common I have on hand. If you want a steel base then the price goes up. 6061 is more than adequate for that application FWIW

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The aluminum isn't a problem with heat?? Interesting.
No. Its just the back cap and its fully isolated from hot gasses . The stainless sleeve extends to the threads. Its a two part construction because of the way the flash hider and threads come together and its all threaded and rocksetted together
 
Very cool, thanks

I met a guy at the Redmond gun show a few weeks back that works with a company that manufactures all sorts of adapters and sound deflectors. I'd bet they have something like that in the works.
 
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I can do it . You need a suppressor big enough for an 8mm that has large pattern threads . I use the multi cal for my 30 cal version just because it has a deep enough throat to take the 76's manliness er I mean flash suppressor. If you pick a suppressor that doesn't have enough bore depth I can still do it its just going to stick out the back a bit more.

On stuff like this I usually charge flat rate based on shop rate depending how long I think it will take based on what materials I use . Shop rate is $100 hr and for a 6061 base and 304 extension you'd be looking at 2 hrs so $200 and I dont charge for material if its something common I have on hand. If you want a steel base then the price goes up. 6061 is more than adequate for that application FWIW
What would you recommend for a suppressor to use for 8mm for this project?
Could you do a form 1 "solvent trap" type using a titanium D cell and blank end caps, 10+ cone baffles in a 12in tube?

I'd have to read about metallurgical specs to know if it matters enough to me about the base, but being ignorant of that topic I'd probably say steel.

Would be really cool to make it a quick-mount.
 
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What would you recommend for a suppressor to use for 8mm for this project?
Could you do a form 1 "solvent trap" type using a titanium D cell and blank end caps, 10+ cone baffles in a 12in tube?

I'd have to read about metallurgical specs to know if it matters enough to me about the base, but being ignorant of that topic I'd probably say steel.

Would be really cool to make it a quick-mount.
12" . Thats a lot of tube. Im an 07/02 SOT . I dont do form 1's for customer cans. I could build you a standard form 3 to your dealer can for it but youre just as well off picking up a 338 can and having me make a back mount for it.
 
What do you mean building a form 3 to my dealer? I'm still not super familiar with all the atf form #s

I would like to have a thunder beast, but they're not user serviceable??
Been wanting an M48 "Americanized", including a suppressor, walnut stock and slicked up action, so would I still be able to use the can on other rifles, or would it have to be dedicated to the M76 with the new rear mount?
 
I build a silencer on a form 2. I send it to your dealer on a form 3 who transfers it to you on a form 4.

Form 1's are for non manufacturers to build a silencer for themselves.

TBH dont worry about servicing a centerfire silencer.

You need a can that can handle up to a 338 AND has a full thread back end cap I can make a back end adapter for it you'll still be able to use it on everything . The most effective one Im seeing that covers all the bases is the Alaskan 360. It will work on everything 9mm and under and they have plenty of adapters for different applications . The MSRP on them is 1099. The MAP price is $830. I can get you one for $750 and make the adapter for 200 and send it all to your dealer who then does a form 4 to you.
 
I thought I had replied again, but looks like I failed to post it...

So what you'll be doing then is making an adaptor to fit the 22 x3 yugo threads, or you grind those down and rethread, then fit an adaptor to fit over the brake?

It looked like you were saying you ground down the yugo threads and rethreaded to fit an adaptor, but I'm feeling easily confused lately, son had a medical emergency recently and my mind is still scrambled, so please excuse the confusion and thank you for taking time to explain, I've wanted this project for a while and have put off buying the rifle due to nobody available wanting to fit a suppressor for it
 
I thought I had replied again, but looks like I failed to post it...

So what you'll be doing then is making an adaptor to fit the 22 x3 yugo threads, or you grind those down and rethread, then fit an adaptor to fit over the brake?

It looked like you were saying you ground down the yugo threads and rethreaded to fit an adaptor, but I'm feeling easily confused lately, son had a medical emergency recently and my mind is still scrambled, so please excuse the confusion and thank you for taking time to explain, I've wanted this project for a while and have put off buying the rifle due to nobody available wanting to fit a suppressor for it
I make an adapter for the LH 22x3 metric trapezoidal TAPERED threads. I do not grind down the flash hider threads. They are extremely short threads and need a extension built into the adapter to index off the flash hider so the suppressor doesn't droop. It has to be a two piece design. The weapon is not modified.

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I make an adapter for the LH 22x3 metric trapezoidal TAPERED threads. I do not grind down the flash hider threads. They are extremely short threads and need a extension built into the adapter to index off the flash hider so the suppressor doesn't droop. It has to be a two piece design. The weapon is not modified.

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Ahh perfect, exactly what I've been looking for. That Alaskan360 does look good, reviews are good
 

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