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So just got it, pins are to tight... Took a rubber mallet and a plastic buffer to get it apart. I filed the pins and it's still hard to get to go together, have a slight gap. Bent the charging rod getting it apart and now I have a Nick in the barrel. I decided to quit for now, wedge won't go in and I still have a slight gap around the pins.

Anybody else have these problems? How did they fix it? And does the gouge in the barrel make it unsafe to fire now? This is my second black powder pistol and the first one didn't have any of these issues.

I haven't even fired the dang thing yet, has me cursing uberti.

IMG_20180718_082322.jpg IMG_20180718_082233.jpg IMG_20180718_082245.jpg IMG_20180718_082306.jpg
 
The barrel wedge is supposed to be tight at first...it will loosen up over time...
To install you may need to push down on the spring as you drive the wedge in.
Also be sure that the screw is turned to accept the wedge....
The gouge will not affect safety...I'd hit it with some cold blue and call it good...as for the loading lever...can you gently bend it back..?
If not you may need a new one.

Dang I wish I was closer to help you out.
Andy
 
The barrel wedge is supposed to be tight at first...it will loosen up over time...
To install you may need to push down on the spring as you drive the wedge in.
Also be sure that the screw is turned to accept the wedge....
The gouge will not affect safety...I'd hit it with some cold blue and call it good...as for the loading lever...can you gently bend it back..?
If not you may need a new one.

Dang I wish I was closer to help you out.
Andy

You already have... Actually it's funny because I was thinking I'm new to black powder so was hoping for some tips and I thought, maybe that Andy guy who is really into black powder would have some advice.(or at least some moral support).

The wedge came out easy so I figured it would go back in easy... More worried about the loading lever... Maybe if I put it in a vice and bend it? I just don't wanna scar it up further... Or bend it further, and the pins still stick, so hoping won't keep being a pain to take apart.

I guess if I bend it too much maybe I can buy a replacement?

Thanks for the tip on the cold blue.
 
Glad I could help some....:D
Dixie GunWorks and The GunWorks in Springfield Or...will have a replacement loading lever...they are easy to replace.

I'd remove the loading lever ...it unscrews ...then wrap it / tape it so it does not mar and try to bend it back to shape....

Are the "pins" the "safety pins" on the cylinder or are the "Pins" , actually the nipples where the caps go...?
It is the safety pins...then file away until it fits better....If they are actually the nipples...you can buy shorter one....
Andy

Edit to add...if you are too frustrated at the moment to work on this revolver...
You could ship it to me and I can try to get it back to shape and such...
Just a thought....
Andy
 
If it were me, I would take that loading lever off the pistol frame and leave it connected in the ram block since that looks like where the bend happened, and take it to someone who has a hydrolic press, and gently press the loading lever back into a straight line. A press is better than beatIng on things with a hammer.
Go easy and go slow, and eye ball it. Test often to see how the fit is coming along between the lever and your barrel with the screw holding it in place as you go along in the process and it should be ok. If you are worried about marking up the lever put some thick heavy leather on it when you press it, and it won't bugger up the finish then.:cool:
 
Last Edited:
Are the "pins" the "safety pins" on the cylinder or are the "Pins" , actually the nipples where the caps go...?
It is the safety pins...then file away until it fits better....If they are actually the nipples...you can buy shorter one....
Andy

Edit to add...if you are too frustrated at the moment to work on this revolver...
You could ship it to me and I can try to get it back to shape and such...
Just a thought....
Andy

The pins are the two pins that join the barrel to the frame on the bottom in front of the trigger. I've filled them down a bit but it's still so stiff getting it apart I have to beat it with a rubber mallet.(hence the bent lever.).

I did all this during the first cleaning to get the penetrating oil off... If I get the loading lever bent back I think I'll leave it alone until I've at least had a chance to shoot it a bit. :)

I suppose it's still possible to shoot it with a bent loading lever but, it'll flop around like a first model.

Thanks for the offer to fix it, and the tip on the cold blue, and the tip on bending it back,and the recommendation on places to get a replacement. I'll try bending it this evening. I can't shoot it until fire season is over or I make it to the local range. So I have time to tinker further.

Also there is a guy that works in town into black powder, seems to be part of a community as he said he's friends with the guy that owns the Canon they use on the pirate ship for the Portland festival they do, maybe he would know a guy with a press or a more local place to pick up a replacement lever. He worked at the gun counter but they closed that so finding him in the store might be more difficult now.

Sucks too because I wanted to talk to him more about the events he goes to. I keep meeting interesting people like that in town, need to learn to exchange info.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice! Got this as a birthday gift and was starting to feel bummed out.
 
First do not file on the pins any more....
They are important to hold the frame and barrel together while the revolver is fired....
It will be tough , when new to get the frame and barrel apart when new...having to use a rubber mallet is common and what you need to do.
It will loosen up over time on its own.

Sorry for misunderstanding just what pins we were / are taking about....
Andy
 
First do not file on the pins any more....
They are important to hold the frame and barrel together while the revolver is fired....
It will be tough , when new to get the frame and barrel apart when new...having to use a rubber mallet is common and what you need to do.
It will loosen up over time on its own.

Sorry for misunderstanding just what pins we were / are taking about....
Andy

I should have probably taken a picture but, didn't want to take it apart again. :)

I filed a small amount off using tiny files, it didn't help, thanks for the advice I will not file them further even if I keep bending my loading lever getting it apart. :(

I have no idea how the gouge in the barrel happened, might have been during when I was trying to bend it back. (It was a lot more bent)
 
What I do to take down a Colt or Colt Copy is :
Be sure its empty...
Put the revolver on half cock...
gently tap the wedge pin loose...but not off with a rubber mallet...
again gently tap with the rubber mallet where the frame meets the barrel assembly
( on the underside of the revolver )
Remove the barrel , then cylinder...

To re-assemble...
Put the revolver on have cock...
put the cylinder back on , then the frame and barrel assembly together...gently tap at the muzzle to get a tight fit
( using a rubber mallet )
Tap in wedge pin...
You may have to remove the wedge pin screw to do this...but normally you don't have to
Now...the more you tap the barrel and frame , the tighter the fit...which may if too tight cause the cylinder to lock up....if this happens...its an easy fix to..gently tap it back apart and work it all back together....
Andy
 
What I do to take down a Colt or Colt Copy is :
Be sure its empty...
Put the revolver on half cock...
gently tap the wedge pin loose...but not off with a rubber mallet...
again gently tap with the rubber mallet where the frame meets the barrel assembly
( on the underside of the revolver )
Remove the barrel , then cylinder...

To re-assemble...
Put the revolver on have cock...
put the cylinder back on , then the frame and barrel assembly together...gently tap at the muzzle to get a tight fit
( using a rubber mallet )
Tap in wedge pin...
You may have to remove the wedge pin screw to do this...but normally you don't have to
Now...the more you tap the barrel and frame , the tighter the fit...which ma ,y if too tight cause the cylinder to lock up....if this happens...its an easy fix to..gently tap it back apart and work it all back together....
Andy

I got the wedge back in at lunch today. Gently tapped on it after putting the screw back in. I did about what you described but tapped the loading lever after it was pushing against the cylinder so it's pushing it loose. I'll have to try your method next time. The loading lever may have bent because the wedge was not fully backwards. (it was off to one side) I also didn't know you needed to use a rubber mallet, figured it should come apart easy like my other pistol.

My 1851 navy I didn't have to tap it on and it's easy to remove, so easy in fact the pins regularly fall out which is kinda annoying. It also no longer has a tight fit and the cylinder has a tiny amount of wobble which has me a little concerned but it's a brass frame revolver and I know they are short lived. (which is the reason why I got the dragoon) I did have a problem with the wedge the first time but after that it's worked without a hitch. I've been firing half loads out of the 1851 to hopefully make it last longer but am looking forward to full loads and then some in the dragoon. :) From what I'm reading 40grains of FFFg should be safe? I figured I might start with 30 since it is triple 7... Still that's about 3X what I've been putting in the 1851, should be fun...
 
Glad to be of some help here.
A cheap and easy fix for a loose barrel fit , is to order and install a larger wedge...in this case a Colt '60 Army wedge filed down to fit your Navy , may do the trick...

As for a load my Colt Dragoon likes 30-40 grains of 2F ...
A load of 40 Grains 3F in your Uberti will be fine.
Andy
 

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