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Threading Mosin for brake, & other mosin stuff.

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by Windsor, Oct 16, 2014.

  1. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    image.jpg I was wondering if anyone has threaded their Mosin Nagant for a muzzle brake? I have looked at a few companies that sell the dies and guides, but I haven't ever done one. I found someone local that would do it, but he wants $130 to do it, and $40 more to cut the threads to clock the brake. I'd want to clock the brake instead of using a jam nut.
    I saw a couple kits that have the guide, die, handle, and the brake I want for $100. I am just wondering if I will be getting in over my head. I am pretty good with tools (built my 1940 chysler with only minimal shop help to mill the heads and machine one part).
    Also, if you have done one or a few, what cutting oil/fluid would be best? I will have to cut 1.5" off the barrel to get past the counter bore, but that isn't an issue for me.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  2. gophishhhh

    gophishhhh milwaukie Active Member

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    wow, $100.00 for all that is a smoking deal.
    Problem you may have is your barrel diameter.
    Weather cutting with a die or on a machine, the diameter of the area to be threaded needs to be at the major diameter of the thread being cut.
    Any quality cutting oil will work fine for what you want to do.
    If you find you don't want to tackle this yourself and you can make it up to the Oregon City area, shoot me a PM and I can help you out with cutting and clocking.
     
  3. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Thanks.
    Yeah, I have seen it a couple times on sale for $100 with free shipping. That particular set is from an ad for $120. I can't just bring myself to pay $100 for a really nice brake.
    If the barrel is a little larger than the threads, I do know someone with an automotive machine shop. But, I measure the difference between the threads and barrel when I cut the counterbored section off.
    For now, it is going on hold. Found out this morning that I will be going up to Portland for surgery next week.
     
  4. Reno911

    Reno911 Hillsboro Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    I've cut and crowned a few. Never have I threaded any. I'll be interested to see your results. If they turn out well I'll rent it from you?
     
  5. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Once I do get it and get the job done, I'll post pictures. It may be a little while though.
    Side note: since I will be going with optics on this rifle, I will probably mill the front sight off. That will give me a little more to play with if needed.
     
  6. MountainBear

    MountainBear Sweet Home, OR Well-Known Member

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    That is beyond the realm of kitchen table gunsmithing. The barrel needs to be turned to the major diameter of the threads on a lathe. If the rifle/barrel isn't properly centered on the bore when this is done, then the outside contour to be threaded might not be parallel to the bore. If you then thread the stub with the die and it gets off center, then your brake goes on crooked. Chances are that this would simply look bad from an aesthetic standpoint. But depending on how the brake is constructed, it could also cause a round to strike the brake as it leaves, which obviously is a bigger problem.

    I'm all for people kitchen table gunsmithing on things like 10/22's, AR's, and swapping stocks and the like. Everyone should know how to do things on their guns, just like changing the oil or a tire on your car. But unless you are set up with a proper machine shop, then trying to do something like this is just asking for trouble. At the very least, have the barrel threaded by a proper gunsmith. I know tornado technologies has a wait list, but since threading is most of what they do, they are cheaper than the rest of us. In the meantime, its still a shootable gun, so no harm there.
     
  7. Reno911

    Reno911 Hillsboro Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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  8. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Reno911, I have looked at a couple videos like that. It seems to me that the barrels cut fairly easily. As far as the shavings, I think I would take a lot longer than he did, I would probably remove it completely every revolution to clean the threads.
    MountainBear, I understand your point of view on the idea. Which is one of the reasons I was seeing if anyone has had experience doin this. I also know that Mosins have an issue where the bore isn't always centered in the barrel. My idea was to cut the counter bore down and check everything at that point.
    This is very much an experiment for me, so I am taking in as many ideas and thoughts as I can.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  9. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    ?oh=f68045432d601bdfde2af56ddcfa30d5&oe=54B1394E&__gda__=1421573369_d7e427493a9fe35b03e1dfde3288f16f This is the current state of the rifle. I made the bolt handle out if a 5/16 grade 8 bolt, bent to the shape I wanted (using torch to heat it up). I cut the head off and threaded the original ball and end of the bolt together then silver soldered them. I installed a spring on the trigger to get rid of the slop and squared off the sear which gave it a nice smooth pull and release.
    I just checked the barrel, Id cut it right behind the front sight. That will put it ~1" behind the counterbore and for 1.25", there is only .002" variation in diameter with .001" out of round. Of course that would depend on bore centerline.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  10. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Squared and smoothed. Still need to crown it.
    ?oh=e0b418660368f0ed83c5fb7de1dfa54e&oe=54ECC721&__gda__=1420451700_4354ae17d47d980b5dc05100e5f610a2
    ?oh=522eb784a964a8f7d91a68d7005d6db8&oe=54F0D593&__gda__=1421859717_05b633a955e81ce17e26fc1b40ffa33b
     
  11. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Just ordered these. I'll get pictures up once they get here and I get started. I decided on the CNC Warrior set instead of the eBay kit, hopefully it will be the better quality of the threading sets. It has a few basic reviews that say it is good.
    I found the Slingshot brake from viperspeed, but couldn't find any reviews on it.
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2014
  12. erudne

    erudne The Pie Matrix PPL Say Sleeping W/Your Rifle Is A bad Thing? Bronze Supporter

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    your pics don't show
     
  13. Reno911

    Reno911 Hillsboro Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    I'll be eagerly waiting for the results. May offset your costs and rent it from you once your done.
     
  14. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Hmm. Don't know why, it shows on my iPod.
    image-jpg.111118
    image-jpg.111119
     
  15. erudne

    erudne The Pie Matrix PPL Say Sleeping W/Your Rifle Is A bad Thing? Bronze Supporter

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  16. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    Don't know. Uploaded the pictures and also inserted links to the pictures. Shows them on my comp and iPod, so I dunno.
    Reno, the parts should be here next week. Thankfully it is something I can work on in my chair, back surgery made things worse for me.
    I will be getting a 90* facing tool as well as a 11* crowning tool if I can get some other stuff sold, so hopefully I'll be able to have a full set of tools to cut/crown/thread Mosins and it will all still cost me less than having a shop do the work. Especially since I'll be buying more Mosins later down the line (what can I say, I like em).
     
  17. Reno911

    Reno911 Hillsboro Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    I'm certainly up for renting or getting together to work on modding a mosin.

    My last rendition. Needs better glass, but she is a nice shooter.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415147330.276767.jpg
     
    taroman likes this.
  18. Reno911

    Reno911 Hillsboro Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    I really want to thread this one for a brake. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415147819.982149.jpg
     
  19. Windsor

    Windsor Myrtle Creek OR Active Member

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    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg Threading set came in today. I used the same wood "clamp" I made when I cut the barrel down. In the bore, I placed a bore brush with a couple patches on top. I used the TAT to set the depth of the brush.
    I probably was a bit cautious on doing the threading, I used my shop vac to clear the shavings before backing the die off to clean the threads (about every half revolution) and I used a lot of cutting fluid.
    With all that, the threads came out crisp and clean. Only had the barrel turn once, added more cutting fluid and it wasnt an issue anymore. Kept the chips small by backing the die about every 1/16th of a turn.
    I used the jam nut that came with the kit when I was done to double check that the face was level. Needed about 5 swipes of the file to get it flush. So, that was pretty good. The jam nut goes on smoothly and is firm but smooth all the way to the end. I will have to thread some more when the brake gets here, that way I can get full thread depth and clock it without the jam nut.
    The only thing I don't like about the kit is that the die only has 2 securing divots for the screws and they are on the same axis. Which causes the die to be canted in the handle. It doesn't cause any problems, since the TAT keeps everything inline, but Id like it more if it sat flush and was fully seated in the handle.
    Above are a couple pictures of the threads. Sorry, couldn't get my iPod to focus right.
     
    taroman likes this.
  20. ZA_Survivalist

    ZA_Survivalist Oregon AK's all day.

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    Seriously, good thread job!