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My reloading mistakes over the years, too many to count. But I haven't yet blown up a gun so that's on the plus side of the ledger.

"Rainbow Brass."

Lately, I had a small, mixed lot of brass that I wanted to clean up. To fully remove the carbon and soot from handgun brass, I often start out by washing it in a mild solution of phosphoric acid, in this case trade name Iosso. Usually it works well.

Last time I was out in the hills shooting, I found some of those two piece 9mm cases. Aluminum base, stainless steel shell. Such as Shell Shock Technologies makes, NAS3. I picked up about two dozen to take back and experiment with. Cleaning being the first step.

In this small batch, I had some nickel plated .38 Super and .357, some plain brass .38 Super, and the NAS3 two piece 9mm. They weren't in the solution more than give minutes before I noticed that something terrible was going on. Everything was turning black. So I took them out, rolling them in my nitrile gloved hands to remove as much of the black as possible, then placing them in the rinse water.

I'm not a chemist, but it appears that aluminum and phosphoric acid do not want to mix. Once mixed together, the combined solution then started to take the nickel plating off the other cases.

Once the 9mm NAS3 cases were dry, I tried running a few through a sizing die. Which wanted to pull the aluminum heads off. Even lubed, the carbide sizing ring wanted to pull them off. So for my purposes, they aren't reloadable.

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The NAS3 cases are waste material. The discolored other cases I will run through the dry tumbler for a few hours and see if they clean up any. But lifted off nickel plating won't rejuvenate.
 
Hornady brass is always too short. In this case I had my bell set for standard length 10mm brass, and since the Hornady was short, it didn't get a bell.

Placed a projo on top, and smashed it.
Wasted powder and primer.

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Hornady brass is always too short. In this case I had my bell set for standard length 10mm brass, and since the Hornady was short, it didn't get a bell.

Placed a projo on top, and smashed it.
Wasted powder and primer.

View attachment 2255007
Not only that, but now you'll have that annoying EMPTY spot in the box!! Well I would. I put all my ammo in 50/100 boxes.
 
Personally? I've never made a mistake, let alone a hand loading mistake:s0063:.

Mike, get to the range and blow off the odd number 49 cases! All will be even again.
 
Personally? I've never made a mistake, let alone a hand loading mistake:s0063:.

Mike, get to the range and blow off the odd number 49 cases! All will be even again.
You know, currently I only have ONE box like that. It happens to be ONE case of S&B 6.6x55 that I was testing how long it would take to get a split case. Seeing as there's a fairly poor opinion of S&B brass. I didn't think long, so after a second firing I hade ONE case out of twenty that had the slightest split. I should have ran it again, because it was only 1/16". But I shatt canned it. Those other 19 S&B 6.5x55 cases? Have gone a total of SEVEN firings! NO splits. Have 'em all loaded up to shoot again!
 
My most recent mistake. Was using a collet bullet puller to pull some 556 pills. For some reason I decided to go the wrong direction with the ram. Ended up with a pretty funny looking mistake. Told a friend it was an uncircumcised 223

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My most recent mistake. Was using a collet bullet puller to pull some 556 pills. For some reason I decided to go the wrong direction with the ram. Ended up with a pretty funny looking mistake. Told a friend it was an uncircumcised 223

View attachment 2256261 View attachment 2256262
Oh, that's AWSOME! I have a special spot on my bench for such oddities and curios!
 
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Don't use WD40 to lube your cases. It will kill your primer. I did that once. The round didn't fire. I set my rifle down and facing the target and ready to eject the round and then it went off!
 
Prepare to adjust your powder load beyond the load tables. I made custom brass for my T99 Arisaka so a longer neck would safely chamber and hold the seated bullet far enough out so bullet ogive could reach the rifling. I would have a standard to compare from. This new custom case had a larger case capacity now. Only the maximum load could hit the target at 100 yards and the rest were hitting the ground. I discovered this by shooting at the 50 yard target and the maximum load printed at the bottom edge of the target.
 
Always check your brass for stress marks when reloading and firing near maximum charges. I reloaded 10mm for my brother's Glock and had a Kaboom. I thought I lost my fingers but was happy I didn't. Then most recently, my reloaded 7.7x58 test loads toward a maximum load was showing flattened primers and a ring around the brass after firing. Finally one case split and got stuck in my chamber. I noticed that all the fired casings before had the stretch mark while there were none before.
 
My latest mistake while hand loading. Loading (seating and roll crimping) a bunch of .32-20's (.32WCF) and decided to switch bullets. Same weight, same diameter, length within a couple of thousands. Poly coated vs powder coated. Crushed three before I realized I needed to re-adjust the seater die. Re-adjusted the die and no problems.

Live and learn.
 
I bring out one powder at a time to avoid mixing powders by accident. I also write down what test loads I plan to assemble. Sometimes it's the same bullet but different powder and loads. So, one night I chose a load but looked at the wrong test load data using a different powder. After carefully assembling the test loads I realized I had too much powder in every load!. I calmly disassembled the components, cleaned up, and went to bed.
 

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