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Old rifle sling mounts seemed to have turned a bit over the years. Is there a proper way to set the sling mounts so the sling is straight with the stock?

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Stick an Allen wrench in there, back it off, place washer over threads, screw back on till tight, test alignment, repeat if still not aligned.

Or, snug it up if it's just backed out a bit.
 
Ive tried a thin washer shim but cant find the right thickness. Was wondering if there was some other method like filling the hole with a threadlock or epoxy (except I want to be able to remove it if needed....).

The image above is fully tightened... so I'm also wondering if the threads formed into the wood stock are becoming worn out causing the misalignment. ?
 
Ive tried a thin washer shim but cant find the right thickness. Was wondering if there was some other method like filling the hole with a threadlock or epoxy (except I want to be able to remove it if needed....).

The image above is fully tightened... so I'm also wondering if the threads formed into the wood stock are becoming worn out causing the misalignment. ?


If it's fulling tightened, it's likely over turned and went further into the wood.

You could rotate another 90 or so degrees tighter and hope it doesn't strip.

You could fill the hole, drill another and start over.

I'd remove it, measure the depth, measure the length of the screw. If the hole is deeper, ream the top, or outer most portion of the hole, so that the threads can go deeper without wood getting in the way of the stud. If that makes sense. Then just thread it another turn till straight.
 
You need shim stock, or stack a bunch of thin washers until you get it where you want it. ;)

I figured I just didn't try hard enough with shimming it. I'll have to make it a project some evening soon... I actually have some pieces of shim stock but no way to cut metal that precise and small, and the plastic shim is tedious to cut out nicely with an exacto knife...


I'd remove it, measure the depth, measure the length of the screw. If the hole is deeper, ream the top, or outer most portion of the hole, so that the threads can go deeper without wood getting in the way of the stud. If that makes sense. Then just thread it another turn till straight.
I think I get it, Im hoping though to find a way without modifying the stock any... especially removing stock material. I could possibly consider filling the hole and re-drilling and tapping... if it comes to that.
 
I can't tell you how many times I've brought a bolt and a piece of equipment into an Ace Hardware and sat in the hardware isle test fitting every washer imaginable until one worked.
 
I can't tell you how many times I've brought a bolt and a piece of equipment into an Ace Hardware and sat in the hardware isle test fitting every washer imaginable until one worked.

lol... same here.

I might leave the gun "equipment" behind for this project though... (the rifle anyways.... ;) )
 
Put a drop of gorilla glue on the threads and turn it to where you want it.

If you really want to take it apart it shouldn't be that hard, just don't go nutty with the glue.

Epoxy will weld that sucker in there.
 
I definitely don't want to permanently glue the screw in there but not certain if there is something that would set it where I need it solid, yet be removable?

I'd use a wood glue or just a drop of gorilla glue - white so there's is less expansion. It will hold it tight and you will have to use a wrench to get it out but it shouldn't hurt the stock at all.

I wasn't saying don't use epoxy cuz it could crack the stock if you try to remove it.
 
The black/white plastic spacers are actually compression washers. Over the years they give way.
Stick a new one on and a drop of glue on the stud and fixed.
I've got plenty of the spacers if you need one.
 
If you can't snug it up as is, I would drill the hole to fit a piece of wood doweling and glue it in with the peanut butter consistency slow setting jell bedding kit that Brownells sells. Then finish it flush with the stock, and once it's set and dry just center and redrill a new hole to JUST the diameter of the shank of you stud screw, as if the threads were not in it, and it will be good as new. Over the years you could redo that a million times and it will work every time. I've done tons of them. Same with fixing broken stocks, I've never had a fixed stock break in the same place once glued up with the bedding compound wrapped with surgical tubing, then refinish it.:cool::)
 
the plastic shim is tedious to cut out nicely with an exacto knife...

I can't tell you how many times I've brought a bolt and a piece of equipment into an Ace Hardware
Some good answers here, some that I'd definitely use. I just thought I'd add that Ace carries nylon bushings in many diameters, all the way down to "WTF would you use that for?"... they come in various thicknesses too.

I think a drop or two of wood glue and a broken-off toothpick will get the job done though. I've used that method on countless hogged-out screw holes (in wood only, of course).
 
The black/white plastic spacers are actually compression washers. Over the years they give way.
Stick a new one on and a drop of glue on the stud and fixed.
I've got plenty of the spacers if you need one.

Ill give this a try first. I think Reno shared a link to buy some of those for just a few bucks.... Should be pretty straight forward.
 
The toothpick and a drop of Elmer's Wood Glue(the yellow one) will get you what you want. If you need to remove it some time in the future; a bit of heat on the metal screw will act to loosen the Glue. A soldering iron(I use the trigger type) works best.
 

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