S&W Model 19-6 Snub

[snarlingdog]

Sweet deal dude

 

[BillGabby1]

This is an excellent price for one in very good condition. I usually shoot 38 plus P ammo and can carry with 158 grain 357 or 38plus p. There was a thread that 125 grain bullets cracked the forcing cone on these guns, but I think this was disputed, but 158 grain is the way to go. I'd think you would be very happy using 39 plus p ammo.

It is true, the small bullet could wobble when jumping the gap from the cylinder to the barrel, which is what caused the damage. The 158gr bullets are longer and are stabilized when they cross over because the front and rear hold it in alignment. I doubt a few if them would cause the cracking, but you want to examine the forcing cone at the bottom where it is squared off, that is the weak point.
If it's not damaged and locks up properly when cocked and then the trigger pulled, while holding the trigger back there should be NO movement of the cylinder.
If it's a sound gun I would say grab it the 19 is a great gun. I have one with the 4"barrel and I keep it loaded with +P hollow points, much more controllable than the magnums and with the tough frame meant to shoot the heavy loads it will last you forever as long as you take care of it.
The revision number is stamped inside the cylinder crane and you will see 19-? with that and the serial number you can find out pretty close when it was made. Not that it really matters.
Gabby

 

[BillGabby1]

Well I was just told that there is a new deal. His wife decided she wanted to keep the Mini 14 which I was thinking about buying also, and I get the .410 Stoeger, Ruger .357 and the S&W .357 for $500. I really wanted the Mini 14 but this is a great deal and I get 3 of my fathers guns that I wasn't expecting. He passed 15 years ago and they have been in his step sons possession ever since.

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Heck of a deal, I hope you grabbed them

 

[BillGabby1]

I got the guns today and all the extras including the leather/holster pictured below. They are in better shape than the pictures show especially the Ruger (which is a Vaquero not a Blackhawk) and I don't think it's been shot in over 15 years and it's barely broken in. Super stoked!

I have noticed a 3-4 small rust spots though, total across all 3 guns. Does anyone have some advice for knocking those little spots out? I have some Hoppes but haven't tried it yet.

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Depending on how deep it is you can use some 0000 steel wool wetted with your gun oil of choice then GENTLY rub on the rusted area. If that doesn't get it all out you may want to get more aggressive, and sand it out using around 400 grit wet or dry paper, try not to make a depression so use a block to keep it all level. Once you get rid of all the rust, you will want to finish sand it as fine as it takes to match the surrounding metal, then get some Oxpho-Blue from Numrich Arms, and follow the directions and re-blue it till it matches back up. If you did a good job it may not even show at all. It just takes time elbow grease and patience to get it done.
You can get the good sand paper from your auto parts store.
Gabby

 

[BillGabby1]

Well I wrote a nice note about fixing your rust problem , and then clicked where I shouldn't have and now it's gone.
I'll try and do it again.
Using 0000 steel wool wetted with whatever oil you use. GENTLY rub at the rust and if that takes it off you are good to go.
However if that doesn't do the job you will need to get more aggressive, by using a small block to keep from making a depression use some 400 grit wet or dry paper from your auto parts store, they sell to the body shops and have the good stuff.
Still gently proceed to sand the rust spot out following the contours of the piece, once you get it all out, switch to finer papers and sand out the marks the coarser paper made, then go finer yet till you match the surrounding metal, then you can use this Oxpho Blue Metal Prep & Coloring | Gunsmith Tools & Supplies at Brownells to re-blue it and you can keep on using it numerous times till you get a match. When using any cold blue product pour a small amount in a dish so that you don't contaminate the chemicals in the bottle which can make it go bad and not work any more.
If you aren't clear on how to do it shoot me a PM and I'll be glad to help you.

You basically are getting the 2 revolvers for $250 each and the rest is free, Grab them
Gabby

 

[Glock Jock]

Thanks for the info! The rust is very small so I will try the first method and I'm going to avoid all lighter loads.

 

[BillGabby1]

Thanks for the info! The rust is very small so I will try the first method and I'm going to avoid all lighter loads.

If the steel wool does the trick be sure to clean it good then oil it to keep it from rusting again.

 

[Glock Jock]

I have a question regarding the Ruger Vaquero: Can I shoot .38 Special rounds out of it or just the .357?

 

[Certaindeaf]

I have a question regarding the Ruger Vaquero: Can I shoot .38 Special rounds out of it or just the .357?

You can shoot .38's in it. They are 1/10" shorter and operate at a lot less pressure than .357.
You might find that after you fire a few 100-1000's of .38 that you have to clean the cylinders before the longer .357's will slide into the chambers nicely.

 

[Glock Jock]

I thought so, but didn't know if this older style pistol would prevent that. Thank you!

 

[BillGabby1]

Any 357 magnum can also fire the 38Spl. without a problem as long as you clean it as mentioned above.

 

[bmw2]

Bronze wool works well too and less chance of damaging the finish.

 

[BillGabby1]

I've even read that copper wool for cleaning dishes, what ever works!