rimfire aluminum suppressors

[bombay546]

I'm looking to get some insight on people with experience with aluminum rimfire suppressors, particularly those with a few years on them and at least a few thousand rounds down range. How's the upkeep?

I'm looking into getting the Oden Nav 22, so anyone with any experience and remarks would be appreciated.

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[Member 34319]

Upkeep? I don't clean the aluminum ones that much if any. I'd say one has at least 8000 through it.

Usually soak in oil and scrub some of the gunk off with a disposable type sponge. Non scratching type. Get as much off and put it back together.

 

[kmk1012]

Upkeep? I don't clean the aluminum ones that much if any. I'd say one has at least 8000 through it.

Usually soak in oil and scrub some of the gunk off with a disposable type sponge. Non scratching type. Get as much off and put it back together.

Very similar here as well. Several thousands of rounds, exposed lead and coated. Little to no noticeable wear on the stack of baffles. Soak in oil, I use a rigid plastic scraping tool , then reassemble. I did buy a threaded press to push the stack out vs impact though, didn't want to risk damaging threads.

 

[aasbra]

I have a Gemtech Alpine purchased probably 8-9 years ago. I take it apart periodically (probably every 500 to 1000 rounds) for an Internal cleaning and soak the baffles in Ed's red and clean them with a brush, rags, and pick tool, before spraying the inside of the tube and baffles with welding nozzle anti splatter spray. While a bit labor intensive, this process has worked for me. More recently, I purchased a Dead Air Mask. While I like the lighter, aluminum Alpine on handguns, I like the wider range of options for cleaning the Mask as it doesn't use aluminum baffles.

 

[bombay546]

Upkeep? I don't clean the aluminum ones that much if any. I'd say one has at least 8000 through it.

Usually soak in oil and scrub some of the gunk off with a disposable type sponge. Non scratching type. Get as much off and put it back together.

Thanks for the insight. Your process doesn't seem bad if you don't mind cleaning every once in a while.

 

[bombay546]

I have a Gemtech Alpine purchased probably 8-9 years ago. I take it apart periodically (probably every 500 to 1000 rounds) for an Internal cleaning and soak the baffles in Ed's red and clean them with a brush, rags, and pick tool, before spraying the inside of the tube and baffles with welding nozzle anti splatter spray. While a bit labor intensive, this process has worked for me. More recently, I purchased a Dead Air Mask. While I like the lighter, aluminum Alpine on handguns, I like the wider range of options for cleaning the Mask as it doesn't use aluminum baffles.

I've also looked at the Dead Air Mask, but I'm trying to keep my build as light as possible. I'm having a hard time weight what is more important to me: weight or work (maintenance). On that note, it seems like most suppressors perform similar on impression decibels with a few outliers on both sides. The Mask averaged 115 dB while the Nav 22 averaged 113 dB from what I've seen. The modular design of the Nav is what I'm drawn to. This wouldn't be a big decision if not for the $200 stamp and the wait.

 

[oregonferret]

Alway's go stainless.
.22's, they are super dirty. and you can't use the secret sauce on them without them melting.

1/2 vinegar...1/2 Hydrogen peroxide.
It eats everything built up in can's.

AND It will EAT aluminum..

 

[ilikegunspdx]

I'm looking to get some insight on people with experience with aluminum rimfire suppressors, particularly those with a few years on them and at least a few thousand rounds down range. How's the upkeep?

I'm looking into getting the Oden Nav 22, so anyone with any experience and remarks would be appreciated.

Imo if you are comparing brands based on a 2 db difference u are simply wasting your time. If you want to pay more for better materials or modularity (ability to make smaller or larger) then that makes sense imo but not brand x is better than brand y due to a small db difference. I tested a $110 suppressor vs a $500 one Fe and there was no difference in sound (tone varies from design to design and is influenced by materials probably though fwiw).

Also unless it is the same person testing the same gun with the same ammo at the same time in the same place, comparing db from one to another doesn't mean much at all. I can change the orientation of my db meter Fe and get different db readings. Any comparison of db readings must be identical to be an accurate evaluation of sound levels from one suppressor to another.

I have tested subsonic rounds with different suppressors and barrel lengths using mil-spec meters (meters that don't have an ultra fast rise time will miss the peak and give u meaningless data) and protocols and they are all pretty much the same irrespective of materials used or design. This applies to 22lr subsonic only, not anything else.

One caveat to that is volume. A very small one will often be louder with smaller barrels especially vs a very large volume one will be quieter with smaller barrels. Barrel length makes a huge difference.

So I would look at size and weight for what you want and materials too but you can save hundreds and apply to the next suppressor or other without any loss in performance by not chasing claimed db levels and marketing bs from companies. They all perform almost exactly the same for 22lr subsonic with the exception of small volume ones (or large volume ones if using on small barrels which gives some benefit).

 

[solv3nt]

I've also looked at the Dead Air Mask, but I'm trying to keep my build as light as possible. I'm having a hard time weight what is more important to me: weight or work (maintenance). On that note, it seems like most suppressors perform similar on impression decibels with a few outliers on both sides. The Mask averaged 115 dB while the Nav 22 averaged 113 dB from what I've seen. The modular design of the Nav is what I'm drawn to. This wouldn't be a big decision if not for the $200 stamp and the wait.

I like the mask.

 

[jbett98]

I like my Sparrow.
The clam shell design makes it easy to take apart and clean.

 

[kmk1012]

I went with the AAC Aviator 2, mainly as a impulse buy. I've been very happy and impressed with it but, if I had looked into it first I would have got a stainless or titanium one due to ease of cleaning. That will teach me to go into a new gun shop with $$ not knowing what I want

 

[Member 34319]

Thanks for the insight. Your process doesn't seem bad if you don't mind cleaning every once in a while.

To give some further insight, I have a rugged oculus as well. It is made from 100% stainless steel. I'm at the point now in its use where I really don't care about the cerakote finish and simply take it apart, toss it into CLR (calcium lime rust remover seen at almost every store) and let it sit until it's clean. Tube has a funky worn finish look to it now, but it's still 17-4 stainless underneath so I dont really care. It gets a lot of use. Mostly in the K configuration.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Fwiw re cleaning, the ammo seems to make a big difference as far as I can tell. Using Remington bulk ammo Fe is going to create deposits in the gun and suppressor faster than using something more clean burning like cci or American eagle suppressor. I have an aluminum one with 2500-3000? rounds through it and recently was going to clean but there was really nothing to clean. Some fairly loose debris on the first baffle is all. Don't know if that is due to using clean ammo (I only use American eagle suppressor or cci standard velocity for subs, and occasionally federal champion or cci mini mag for SuperSonics).

I say I don't know because I sprayed it 3 times with a mix of Eezox and water specifically as a pre-treatment to help prevent buildup of deposits. Eezox like other ester-based dry lube oils bonds to the metal and makes a slick dry film after evaporating (note never put these oils on thick and let them dry cuz they turn into a sort of waxy goo which is the opposite of what u want; they are designed to be applied then removed to leave the dry lube film). Another pretreatment option I have thought about trying but never did was molybdenum disulfide. Apply then remove leaving the moly coating bonded to the metal. Should help in theory but have never tested it.

 

[ORhutner]

I've also looked at the Dead Air Mask, but I'm trying to keep my build as light as possible. I'm having a hard time weight what is more important to me: weight or work (maintenance). On that note, it seems like most suppressors perform similar on impression decibels with a few outliers on both sides. The Mask averaged 115 dB while the Nav 22 averaged 113 dB from what I've seen. The modular design of the Nav is what I'm drawn to. This wouldn't be a big decision if not for the $200 stamp and the wait.

If you are looking for light then go titanium. Some great options are the Energetic Armament Nyx and Nyx Mod 2 which are both all titanium or the Q El Camino (this is titanium tube/stainless baffles). I own all three and would go with one of the Nyx's hands down. The El Camino has wicked first round pop on a pistol and the Nyx don't suffer from this problem.

The Nyx Mod 2 offers the modularity your looking for but not isn't a threaded baffle stack design like the Odin.

I don't personally own an aluminum rimfire can but have shot others and they sound just fine. I went titanium or stainless only when I got into the game because I only started 3 years ago and these better materials had become the standard.

 

[TTSX]

Why run aluminum when you can have titanium? In my not humble opinion, the mask is the only rimfire worth considering and it isn't even close. Titanium tube, steel baffles, 5.7 full auto rated and one of the quietest to boot. Hardly weighs anything.