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After six weeks, my size 7 Long Oval (custom), camel-colored, beaver fur, Magill Bowler finally came into John Helmer's Haberdasher and the old lady that waited on me couldn't find the hat. I took the Columbia County Rider bus to 6th and Salmon a second time after they called and said that they had found it. *sigh* (That was an extra $11 I hadn't counted on spending on bus fare).

John Helmer Jr made sure that it fit properly with a set of side spacers and I was good to go. It is beautiful and should serve me on stage as well as wearing it with light brown clothing.

The Hudson Hat Company Boater has lots of mileage left in it, but I may have to eventually replace the original brown leather sweatband. It will be a great summer hat down on the river when the bands are playing on the St Helen's Waterfront Gazebo. (The 13 Nights On The River celebrations take up the entire summer).

Life is good.
 
If the online photos are right, that looks hipster, or steam=punk.

Maybe share a photo?

I have 8 Bowler hats, including a recent vintage Gray body black ribbon/edge binding Stetson that must have been made during the 1980's ($104.50 to my door). Black (3), Navy (1), Chocolate Brown (1) (Bollman Hats of PA.) and a Chocolate Brown Magill (also from Montreal, Quebec) with a tan ribbon and grosgrain edge binding.

Think of the stock Bowler (5" crown, 2" brim). I dislike both the "hipster" and "steampunk" images. Imagine, if you will the look of a younger Black Bart or a 1860's-1920's bartender. For my part, I wear them with either a light brown Herringbone Tweed or tight checked jacket (with elbow patches, of course). A brown or white shirt and Khaki slacks. These along with my Carbon Fiber shaft/Aluminum "golf ball" tipped (from Cold Steel) walking stick is a typical street ensemble. I'm quite particular about what I wear. (At my age, I can afford to be picky)!

The Magill Bowlers were "bespoke" (handmade to order) for me. John Helmer of Portland (established in 1921) has known me (off and on) since 1975 (I was 20 at the time).

Believe me, I receive compliments on a daily basis. I would rather look the gentleman, than as a young "hipster". Since I have aged rather well, (very little gray and almost no wrinkles) preferring a dignified appearance rather than casual, but that's just me.

I'm sorry, I don't know how to post a picture, but if you look on www.johnhelmer.com you can see a picture of John Helmer Jr. If you look carefully under "derbies" (felt hats) you can find something similar to what I purchased. I have visited the store so often that they know my head size and are prepared to order my "bespoke" hats accordingly. "Off-the-shelf" hats require too much "sweatband stuffing" (sizing strips) to be practical. Custom-sized (bespoke) hats are the way to go.
 
Last Edited:
I bought a Fedora from them when I was a senior in high school. Haven't seen it in years, probably lost in a move.



Like this?
FUR FELT DERBY
13032
100% fur felt. Made in Canada by Magill. Size: 6 7/8 - 7 3/4. Color: black, brown. Classic derby shape. Charlie Chaplin would be doing the two-step. ...
FurFeltDerby_Brown.jpg
 
I bought a Fedora from them when I was a senior in high school. Haven't seen it in years, probably lost in a move.



Like this?
FUR FELT DERBY
13032
100% fur felt. Made in Canada by Magill. Size: 6 7/8 - 7 3/4. Color: black, brown. Classic derby shape. Charlie Chaplin would be doing the two-step. ...
View attachment 398008

Yes, yes it is. (Same church different pew).
 
Yes, yes it is. (Same church different pew).

I am now holding a new debate. I will either buy a "bespoke" black Homburg from www.northwesthats.com (Mike Miller's shop) at 870 Pearl Street. Eugene, OR 97401 Ph (541) 515-0422 at a cost of $300.00 for a beaver fur hat (normally between $600 and $1000).

On the other hand, I can have him make a black Bowler with 4 extra interior coatings of wood shellac before installing the satin lining. (This will permit the hat to attain the "helmet" level of rigidity that was a part of the original Lock & Company "Gameskeeper" Bowlers from London in 1849). The Bowler has been my "signature hat" since 1975 and a sample that can take the 'rough service' that can happen while on tour may just be worth the expense (It will be for daily wear like the others).

I figure that I can buy the Homburg about this time next year if I wind up going on tour with the Lieutenant Dann Band with Gary Sinese and company. (It's a shot that I'll have to take).
 
I bought a Fedora from them when I was a senior in high school. Haven't seen it in years, probably lost in a move.



Like this?
FUR FELT DERBY
13032
100% fur felt. Made in Canada by Magill. Size: 6 7/8 - 7 3/4. Color: black, brown. Classic derby shape. Charlie Chaplin would be doing the two-step. ...
View attachment 398008

Ric:

Go to John Helmer and invest in a fur felt (rabbit) fedora (I recommend the Stetson "Whippet" for about $190.00). The reason being that if you buy an $80.00 wool hat, it will fall apart after about 5 years. A rabbit or beaver fur felt hat can last a lifetime.

Go have John Helmer measure your head and have him fit the hat to your head, (no extra charge when you buy it). and follow these simple rules of hat care:

  1. Buy a "brim brush" (about $15.00) and keep the hat brushed clean in a clockwise fashion (online tutorials are available).
  2. Never handle your hat by the crown! Handle it by the brim and wash your hands before doing so. This will reduce the number of times that you'll have the hat sent in for cleaning and blocking.
  3. Always store your hat upside down in a hat box and keep it inside a plastic bag. This helps to keep it clean.
  4. If the hat becomes rain-soaked, never put it on a heat source. This will cause it to shrink (especially if it is a less expensive wool hat). Dry it upside down so that the brim doesn't "droop".
  5. Store your hats in a cool, dry place and keep either cedar wood or mothballs around them (moths find fur felt and wool hats tasty).
Wear Panama (toquiia palm) hats in the summer and felt hats during the autumn, winter, and spring. Take care of them any enjoy the manly art of sporting a hat for the rest of your life.

ENJOY!
 

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