New M1A Walnut Stock - Feels a Bit Unfinished

[etrain16]

There is a lot of beauty in that stock.

It's work. But fully sanding. Then fine sanding the wood. vs. just applying BLO or some other finish. Will allow the three dimensional depth to come out.

It can release those subtle little tiger stripes and feathering in the grain that most walnut has. But can't normally be seen because the finish sanding is too coerce.

Smooth that wood out. And watch it pop!

You're right. And walnut is a fantastic wood to work with - if you do it right, the grain can be amazing. Now, if I could only get a gun stock made from maple burl wood - that would be something! I'm not a master wood finisher, but I've had some practice, so I'm fairly certain I can pull this off, so long as I can be patient and give it the time it needs.

 

[HuckleberryFun]

When you're working on the stock you can, if you wish, do the standard recommended upgrades. You didn't specify whether you got the Standard or Loaded version, but either way you can add:
1)unitized gas cylinder (available from LRB)
2)Sadlak piston
3)Sadlak op rod guide
4)NM trigger (already comes with the Loaded)
5)NM reamed out flash hider with bayonet lug (just because)
6)M5 bayonet and sheath (again, just because...)

I did all these and my groups tightened up quite a bit, although it shot OK (1.75moa) out of the box. This may seem like a lot of trouble for an already pricey rifle, but tinkering and fussing is just part of the deal when you get an M1A. Why get a modern microchipped trouble free sports car when you can get a '60s muscle car with a fussy carb and engine you can enjoy rolling up your sleeves with. You either "get" that or you don't. Keeping it in tune for accuracy is something you'll always watch out for, on the other hand:
rounds fired....1100
malfunctions....0

 

[etrain16]

When you're working on the stock you can, if you wish, do the standard recommended upgrades. You didn't specify whether you got the Standard or Loaded version, but either way you can add:
1)unitized gas cylinder (available from LRB)
2)Sadlak piston
3)Sadlak op rod guide
4)NM trigger (already comes with the Loaded)
5)NM reamed out flash hider with bayonet lug (just because)
6)M5 bayonet and sheath (again, just because...)

I did all these and my groups tightened up quite a bit, although it shot OK (1.75moa) out of the box. This may seem like a lot of trouble for an already pricey rifle, but tinkering and fussing is just part of the deal when you get an M1A. Why get a modern microchipped trouble free sports car when you can get a '60s muscle car with a fussy carb and engine you can enjoy rolling up your sleeves with. You either "get" that or you don't. Keeping it in tune for accuracy is something you'll always watch out for, on the other hand:
rounds fired....1100
malfunctions....0

I updated the OP - it is the "loaded" model. I'll take a look at some of those items you mention though, may be worth consideration.

 

[Medic!]

My loaded after I refinished it.
It looked better than it shot.

 

[etrain16]

My loaded after I refinished it.
It looked better than it shot.



View attachment 320394

That looks very nice

 

[dirtyd]

I actually kinda like it the way it is, for some reason i just feel like this is how they are suppose to look.

 

[Medic!]

I actually kinda like it the way it is, for some reason i just feel like this is how they are suppose to look.

''Life is too short, to shoot an ugly gun''!

 

[etrain16]

So, I emailed Springfield Armory about the stock a few days ago - so far, no response, not even a friendly "we got your email, we'll get back to you in a few days" response.

But I can't blame them for not getting back to me just yet, I'm guessing they're swamped with orders for the new SAINT and simply don't have the manpower to handle customer questions...

 

[Medic!]

What are the chances they will ''fix'' your stock?
They may just replace it with another. And yours now has above average figure.

Don't loose it.
Refinish it. And count yourself lucky.

In a few hours that stock would be transformed. Probably less time than you will put into getting Springfield to Screw things up.

 

[etrain16]

What are the chances they will ''fix'' your stock?
They may just replace it with another. And yours now has above average figure.

Don't loose it.
Refinish it. And count yourself lucky.

In a few hours that stock would be transformed. Probably less time than you will put into getting Springfield to Screw things up.

I'm really just curious what they have to say in defense of sending a partially finished stock. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll just mail me another, then I could have both

 

[Ura-Ki]

A little "trick" to pas on to ya! I take a pair of Pig skin Gloves and put these over a set of latex ones and soak in a little Linseed oil and hand rub using the gloves. No Steel wool or sand paper. Do this for two to three coats and rub until dry on the last coat! Preserves the color and the satin look while helping bring out the natural grain! I picked up a National Match a few years ago, and my stock looked just like yours, after a few hours with the 'Glove Treatment" Every thing came out looking like it should! If yours has sanding marks,, chase it with 400 and 600 grit 3M wet/dry paper, and clean with denatured alcohol to remove any fowling! Sweet Rifle Buddy!!!

 

[etrain16]

A little "trick" to pas on to ya! I take a pair of Pig skin Gloves and put these over a set of latex ones and soak in a little Linseed oil and hand rub using the gloves. No Steel wool or sand paper. Do this for two to three coats and rub until dry on the last coat! Preserves the color and the satin look while helping bring out the natural grain! I picked up a National Match a few years ago, and my stock looked just like yours, after a few hours with the 'Glove Treatment" Every thing came out looking like it should! If yours has sanding marks,, chase it with 400 and 600 grit 3M wet/dry paper, and clean with denatured alcohol to remove any fowling! Sweet Rifle Buddy!!!

Great suggestion, I'll add that to the list!

 

[HILLHOUSE]

I'm partial to linseed oil; that was the standard for finishing military wood rifle stocks as I recal. I use it for all my wood tool handles.

I think you're exactly right using "boiled" linseed oil. Don't just jump on ideas or opinions on the internet, especially blogs or forums. Do the research. I have an unfinished upper Walnut Handguard, hard to find, And applied two coats of dark walnut stain and plan to apply one more. I think after applying a coat of boiled linseed oil it will match perfectly the original M14 stock I installed on my M1A

 

[gmerkt]

Over at the CMP site, they have discussed this topic endlessly. Many repro M1 Rifle stocks are made the same way.

I agree with the comment that SAI stocks of today are not the same as older ones. Color is completely different, other aspects may be as well.

The current M1A stock is much fatter than the original M14 stock, but I prefer the M1A as easier for me to hold on to.

Of the two M1A's I own, the later example has a stock similar to the one shown in the OP. These are military replica type rifles so for my purposes a military appearing stock is appropriate. I went over it with 0000 steel wool and raw linseed oil. Followed by a coat of Tom's 1/3 Gunstock Wax. So it still looks like a miltary stock but not so dry.