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I have read and heard good things about the Nosler brass. I haven't splurged to try it out. Usually if I go the route of upper end brass its on Lapua.
 
I have read and heard good things about the Nosler brass. I haven't splurged to try it out. Usually if I go the route of upper end brass its on Lapua.

For precision rifle, I have tried, SIG, Nosler, Winchester and Lapua. Lapua won for me. That Winchester I gave away, the SIG and Nosler live in their MTM boxes and once-fired state for some future unknown use. That Lapua is the shizdizel, to the point I load the new brass untouched now. Where the other two took a few whisps of brass off in the trimmer and needed ID neck sizing new for consistency neck tension per 50 so I can minimize any crimp to none. The Lapua is good to go out of the box right to load. I took a loan out on my house, sold my left nut and kidney to by 1200 cases for my .308 loads. (I am a 6.5 hold out) I did see groups get a little better (depending on my radome act of doing the shooting right) with the 2nd round of loading on that brass with the same breach. (Neck size and trim only)
 
My recent reload venture for brass involves loads for my 45 Colt Charter Arms Bulldog revolver. New Jagemann brass thru Natchez is $21.49 + ship for 100. Once fired I buy from Northeast Reloading Supply (New Jersey). I paid $66 for 500 casings shipped. The once fired came clean (not deprimed) and looked great. I got several orders of Jagemann and 500 casings from NERS. Both perform well on my Lee press/dies. I'm sitting well with brass, won't have to buy for quite some time.
 
For plinking or precision match shooting? Bolt gun or Autoloader? Do you anneal? How many cycles are you anticipating out of your brass? You rich or not?

Aloha, Mark
 
Probably depends on the caliber and rifle. I have experimented with identical 223 loads and only difference is the brass.
Now to be fair brass varies in case volume and weight. So a slightly different powder charge may make one particular brand
of brass shoot better. So the brand of brass that does not shoot as tight of group I will try slightly different powder charges.
After years of experimenting with the brass question I find some lots of Winchester brass to be outstanding. I cannot get
LC, PMC, REM brass to do as well as Winchester. I seperate the LC by year and weight. Answer to your question is you have to try
Nosler brass in your gun. I have not tried Lapua I guess I am too cheap and not shooting a benchrest gun.
I think you will be be surprised by how much your groups varies with only different brand of brass. IMHO it is a waste of
money to use exspensive match grade bullets if you use cheap crappy brass.
 
For high power rifle I like to start out with all the same brass, same lot, same brand. It's one less variable when doing load development. I like Nosler but haven't tried Lapua or Norma. I do think any of those three are better than the run of the mill more common brand names.
 
For my money, Lapua, Petersen, Norma, then Nosler.
Look at the inside of your brass. In Winchester, RP, FC, SSA, Hornady, and PPU that I've looked at, you will see a fold or sharp internal edge at the base of the brass where the wall starts to turn up.
When you look inside Norma, Lapua, Petersen brass, you see curved inside cups and what appears to be a thicker primer base.
In loading 338 Lapua, Hornady has the reputation of being soft brass. I haven't found a problem with it.
Loading 338 Edge (300 RUM necked up to 338), I use RP, FC and Norma. Much prefer to use the Norma.
I note FC and RP brass primer pockets get loose after just a few loadings. I don't swage.
I've collected many FC in 223 off the range that have split necks.
I've had more PPU brass than any other be too fat on the rim to insert into the cartridge holder.
I've had more LC fail cartridge check after resizing than any other.

Where it would get interesting is if someone kept a batch of 200 brass, measured their primer cups, kept track of changes to neck tension (requires Inline press and Wilson dies + gauge), and number of loadings. Me, I'm too lazy.

That Lapua is the shizdizel
Take a look at Petersen Cartridge. Peterson Cartridge | Match-Grade Brass Rifle Casings
I took a loan out on my house, sold my left nut and kidney to by 1200 cases for my .308 loads.
At least you didn't have to give up your first born.
 
For my money, Lapua, Petersen, Norma, then Nosler.
Look at the inside of your brass. In Winchester, RP, FC, SSA, Hornady, and PPU that I've looked at, you will see a fold or sharp internal edge at the base of the brass where the wall starts to turn up.
When you look inside Norma, Lapua, Petersen brass, you see curved inside cups and what appears to be a thicker primer base.
In loading 338 Lapua, Hornady has the reputation of being soft brass. I haven't found a problem with it.
Loading 338 Edge (300 RUM necked up to 338), I use RP, FC and Norma. Much prefer to use the Norma.
I note FC and RP brass primer pockets get loose after just a few loadings. I don't swage.
I've collected many FC in 223 off the range that have split necks.
I've had more PPU brass than any other be too fat on the rim to insert into the cartridge holder.
I've had more LC fail cartridge check after resizing than any other.

Where it would get interesting is if someone kept a batch of 200 brass, measured their primer cups, kept track of changes to neck tension (requires Inline press and Wilson dies + gauge), and number of loadings. Me, I'm too lazy.


Take a look at Petersen Cartridge. Peterson Cartridge | Match-Grade Brass Rifle Casings
At least you didn't have to give up your firstborn.
I will give Peterson a look. Thinking of drinking the 6.5Cremore Koolaid, if I do I will be looking for more good brass.

Yes not the 1st born, but maybe the 2nd he can be a pain in the bubblegum at times.
 

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