Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by prkrgrp, Jul 8, 2012.
need a muzzle brake for stevens 308?
Try Brownells, Look in Shotgun News, or Stevens. You should fine one there.
Hope this helps,
Tony Portland, Oregon Area
thanks how about a gunsmith to install it
Tri-Delta Muzzle brakes love em low recoil huge noise. I have installed 3 they work great, Im even going to put one on my AR for laughs. Good price and USA made all steel.
Here's the link
Zombie Tri-Delta Steel Muzzle Brake NEW Made in USA 5/8-24 (.308 Bore) threads | eBay
Brakes reduce recoil but at the cost of increased blast and concussion.
A supressor will reduce recoil and not increase blast. OTOH, they are bulky and $$$.
is your barrel threaded yet?
What would you like?
(recoil reduction / stability)???
When I have someone that requests a muzzlebrake, but they aren't sure what they want, I always ask if they shoot prone. There are lots of different styles of brakes but most fall into one of two groups. Radial brakes which vent gasses through ports in multiple directions, up, down, left, right, and in between. Examples of the radial style would be Vias, KDF, Harrel's Precision.
The other group of brakes have solid bottoms, and don't vent gas downward. Most of the second group have 2 to 4 large ports on the sides and are often called gill brakes, because the ports kind of look like gills on a fish. Examples of this style would be Holland's Quick Discharge, Pain Killer, Muscle Brake, and the brakes made Ross Schuler, and Muzzlebrakes and More. Another version of these gill brakes is the tank or artillery style. They look a little different but basically function the same. The JP brake is an example of the tank look.
Now back to the question of prone shooting. If someone shoots prone I recommend a gill/tank style that doesn't port gas to the ground. That helps reduce the amount of debris blown up off the ground and onto the shooter and equipment. The downside to the gill style is they generally come in larger outside diameters. So you end up with the brake looking like an attachment on sporter weight barrels. Many of the radial brakes can be blended to look like part of the barrel even on sporter weight barrels.
So sometimes the owner has to decide between esthetics and function.
Your threads need to be cut with a lathe, and they need to be concentric with the bore of the rifle, not the exterior of the barrel. And being a sporter weight barrel it is a balancing act determining what to thread the barrel for. Too small of a diameter and you run the chance of the bore swelling because there isn't enough steel left, too big of a diameter and there won't be a shoulder for the brake to tighten and square against. The through hole of the brake also needs to be .020" over bullet diameter. Larger than .020" will reduce the efficiency of the brake. Much smaller than .020" and accuracy can suffer. And if the bullet hits the brake damage and accuracy issues will crop up.
I also try and remember to mention a recrown job since everything is already set up and it only takes a couple of minutes. He may offer you a discount on the new crown.
Anyway that machine talk may just be jargon to you but I throw it out so that you understand if you have a handy friend don't let him talk you into trying to cut some threads with a die in the garage.
If you're in portland area, go see Curt's Discount Shooter Supply. He's got some Rainier Arms muzzle breaks that work great. He'll install it for ya too.
If you're not in portland area, you're on your own.
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