Modifying A Wood Stock

[arrowshooter]

This is a Savage Model 25 in .222 Rem and I need to modify some of the "Monte Carlo" off the stock. This rifle is capable of extremely good groups, but they are way too much work to get since I have to really press my face into the thing the same every time to center up the scope. My thought is to just start sanding away at it (with power of course) but is there a better option? I did look at the Boyd's but they all seem to have that comb except for the At-one which I do not consider an option.

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[Nosferatu]

Start sanding.

When you ruin it, start shopping.

 

[VinnieBoomBah]

Higher scope rings . . . . ?

 

[MountainBear]

Wood rasp, go slow. I have round face, I've done the same thing to several stocks.

 

[arrowshooter]

Higher scope could work I suppose, I'm just a low as can go kinda guy.

 

[2Wheels4Ever]

A belt sander would rough it out in no time. A Dremel with a sandpaper mandrel or flap disc would get it to 95%. Finish with steel wool or high grit sand paper. Shouldn't take too long.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

This is a Savage Model 25 in .222 Rem and I need to modify some of the "Monte Carlo" off the stock. This rifle is capable of extremely good groups, but they are way too much work to get since I have to really press my face into the thing the same every time to center up the scope. My thought is to just start sanding away at it (with power of course) but is there a better option? I did look at the Boyd's but they all seem to have that comb except for the At-one which I do not consider an option.

View attachment 1490422

I would sand away at it. Wood is wood no big deal and very forgiving (unless you remove too much of course). I took a $25 wood Vepyr stock/forearm combo and cut it out to for a standard aK (in this case my aK 12 gauge shotgun. Works great.

A090CBAA-FE8D-4791-AC21-2E7CE8284F99.jpeg

• ilikegunspdx
• Aug 25, 2022

Also this sbr I had to modify to fit my folding adapter and also the top shape (I didn't make the stock/handguard).

lknlnljn.JPG

• ilikegunspdx
• May 14, 2023

 

[edzz]

Changing rings would be my first attempt, easy and reversible.
Another possible would involve a cosmetic surgeon....

 

[Mark W.]

Get a nice 8" half round wood rasp. And remove material with the round side flowing all across the area you want to reduce so as to not create furrows. Check the fit often when you get to where you think its almost there. Put the rasp away and move to a soft rubber sanding block with 60 grit to remove the rasp marks then 120 to remove the 60 grit marks. If at the 120 grit step it feels just like you want it. Smooth it up with 220 making sure everything is nicely blended. Then a little 320 to perfect the surface and refinish the worked area.

 

[Stomper]

I am completely shocked that no one has suggested he just take a router and carve out a corresponding key fit from his cheek…..

 

[WAYNO]

I have reshaped a couple combs in my lifetime. Your stock, especially being laminated, would be an easy candidate for me to do so. I am a fan of flapper wheels for such work. They can be aggressive, but only if you require them to be. Using some finesse, the work can be very controlled, requiring little or no final sanding. A quick coat of VaraThane, and you'll be good to go.

I've looked over your photo. Your scope is mounted extremely low with a small objective. You might just want to reconsider your plan. I think I'd be more inclined to use slightly higher rings, and leave the stock as-is, for later use with a larger scope. But that's not my call.

 

[Spitpatch]

In scope mounting, I'm a "low as can go" guy as well, but fitment to the shooter has to take first priority over proximity to the bore.

 

[drstrangelove]

Another vote for medium scope rings.

 

[arrowshooter]

Thanks for all of your input.

I believe those are medium rings since I don't think the offset rear ring is available in a low height. The bell is about 3/16" off the semi bull barrel. In order to get proper eye to scope alignment I think I would need an X-high ring since my chin would end up near the top of the stock. This thing is that fat.

As it sits, I sighted it in with the x-hair about 3/32" to the left of bore center. It is very comfy for my face but this would only work at 100 yards. It does shoot though:



I'm still thinking about whittling dixie and will look into a wood rasp to work in conjunction with the other equipment I have laying around.

 

[DLS]

I'd raise the scope. You will get "flatter" trajectories out of that triple deuce and not do something to the rifle that can't be undone easily.

To most easily understand what I mean by flatter trajectory, fire up a ballistic calculator. Enter the data for your bullet and velocity. Then run a number of tables changing only scope height over bore.

Compare the point-blank range and the variations of over / under line of sight. Most folks are very surprised to see that higher is better, at least until you lose a good cheek weld.

 

[arrowshooter]

Thanks for the info DLS. I have discovered some of the ballistic advantages to higher scope over bore and ran the numbers for my 20 Practical AR with a 30mm scope tube. It was funny because I laser bore sighted it as usual but at 50 yards the darn thing hit like 15' in front of the target. Took me a minute to figure out why.

So where am I now? I can get a regular stock from another version of this rifle from Savage, but it's $400 so nope. I talked to Boyd's and they have a a stock that still has the cheek swell but said it was not as pronounced as what I have (compared below) for $200. It is definitely lower where I need it to be and I will ask for a width dimension to be sure.

As you see I am still fighting taller rings.

My Stock



Boyd's Classic

 

[NeoBlackdog]

Change the rings. If you go to whittling on the stock you're going to need to sand and refinish the whole thing so it all looks the same. New rings will also be much quicker and cheaper, too.
I suppose the other option is a diet so you get rid of those chubby cheeks...

 

[DLS]

... As you see I am still fighting taller rings. ...

If you don't mind the question:

What exactly is the reason that you feel that "lower is better"? I'm curious. As for me (and I'm not saying that this should be you) I am much more concerned with utility and results than pretty much anything else.

 

[TTSX]

I would just buy a different stock. I'm no carpenter, don't have the patience for it. If you totally ruined the one you already have, you'd be shopping for a stock anyway...

 

[arrowshooter]

If you don't mind the question:

What exactly is the reason that you feel that "lower is better"? I'm curious. As for me (and I'm not saying that this should be you) I am much more concerned with utility and results than pretty much anything else.

IMHO when the scope is mounted closer to the bore your down range adjustments are less, like:


But...in terms of "Point Blank Range" as you mentioned above the opposite is true, like this for a 6" target:

I would just buy a different stock. I'm no carpenter, don't have the patience for it. If you totally ruined the one you already have, you'd be shopping for a stock anyway...

The Boyd's stock is now out as I would have to whittle the barrel channel. Not as bad a job when compared to the cheek, but I already own a whittlin' stock and doesn't matter to me which end I whittle.

I am going to move the scope back and forth to see if anything changes while I am shopping for an appropriate ring set. Got Me. lol