Low Profile Gas Block Install

ZigZagZeke · Jan 25, 2017

OK, so I'm starting to build that Palmetto State 16" kit that I won on NWFA. First order of business is to remove the standard front sight/gas block combo and replace it with a low profile gas block that will not interfere with the optics (tactical scope and red dot combo). To do that I'm going to have to remove the installed flash hider on the end of the barrel. Typically, is that just torqued on, loc-tited, etc? Will I have to heat it? Should I just take it to a gunsmith and pay to have him bugger it?

Who's a good AR gunsmith in the Eugene area for those times when I'd like someone else to butcher my project?

UserNameInUse · Jan 26, 2017

Since more the knowledgeable have not answered I'll give it a shot.

Typically there is a crush washer that is there to allow you to align the flash suppressor with the barrel. You should be able to just unscrew it as long as you have a way to hold the upper receiver, but you might need to replace the crush washer with a new one to reinstall it securely.

titsonritz · Jan 26, 2017

There is no toque spec on a standard A2 muzzle device, it is aligned with a crush washer (you will need a new one), it should not be loctited and no need to heat.

The process to remove the FSB is petty straight forward if you have the proper tools, if not you will want to find someone that does or pay an armorer to do the work. Tools needed are:
Solid mounted vise
Barrel vise jaws
Quality Armorers wrench or open end wrench
Hammer
large pin punch (5/16" do it)
(Those hockey puck thing are a joke don't waste your money)

IMO a properly installed low profile gas block should at least be install on a dimpled barrel with knurled set screw and Loctite, pinning is even better and I would steer clear of the clamp type. However on a barrel that already has a FSB installed I would cut it down, remove the sight, bayonet lug and sling swivel mount. The FSB is already pinned so it make for the strong possible gas block.