Looking for P80 help locally

[MountainBum]

I have a few builds I've done that I am having issues with and looking for someone local SE Portland familiar with P80 builds who could probably see right away where I went wrong...honestly I am just burnt out on building and want them to go bang I did to much lately and life is busy. If there is any legalities I should be aware of please school me as far as anyone helping me find out what the problems are with them...I have a G20 10mm with a dead trigger I'm waiting on a replacement connector for that I think/hope may be the issue, and a G26 and G17 fresh builds that the slide won't go all the way on, getting stuck about 1/4" from racking all the way. Any help appreciated.

Read More

 

[DirectDrive]

I have a few builds I've done that I am having issues with and looking for someone local SE Portland familiar with P80 builds who could probably see right away where I went wrong...honestly I am just burnt out on building and want them to go bang I did to much lately and life is busy. If there is any legalities I should be aware of please school me as far as anyone helping me find out what the problems are with them...I have a G20 10mm with a dead trigger I'm waiting on a replacement connector for that I think/hope may be the issue, and a G26 and G17 fresh builds that the slide won't go all the way on, getting stuck about 1/4" from racking all the way. Any help appreciated.

I built a G19 clone.
Runs excellent.

With the large frame P80's I think the problem you might be having is with the TMH (trigger mechanism housing).
I doubt that it's the connector.
Many say that MarineGunBuilder has the best P80 How-To videos on the net.
Your answer is probably in there. You'll just have to dig for it.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcjXVdZEeD89PTNYkMNzKww

On your G17/26 I had the same problem initially.
Could not rack the slide.
I painted (with an artist's brush) into the slide grooves, engine break-in lube which is a light-bodied grease.
I started to be able to move the slide and I racked it many times as it loosened up.
Now that G19 clone has one of the best slides that I have.

Microlon or Lubriplate #105 are two good motor assembly lubes.
There are others too, just use white lithium based and not black graphite enriched.
The black stuff makes a mess and you can't tell when to clean it out.
The parts store might have a small tube intended for camshaft/lifter break-in.

 

[MountainBum]

Thanks for the advice I'll look into all of this on the weekend.

 

[arrowshooter]

+1 on watching the vids. You need to make sure that the firing pin is grabbing the cruciform. If not, you need to do some more work on getting the rear rail and trigger housing down more. If you did not make sure that the trigger housing is sitting all the way down, you'll find out what to do in the vids. I have also had the best luck with OEM trigger bars on the large frames.

Edit: Also make sure that the connector is releasing the trigger bar when the slide comes back. It's easy to check with the slide off.

 

[MountainBum]

+1 on watching the vids. You need to make sure that the firing pin is grabbing the cruciform. If not, you need to do some more work on getting the rear rail and trigger housing down more. If you did not make sure that the trigger housing is sitting all the way down, you'll find out what to do in the vids. I have also had the best luck with OEM trigger bars on the large frames.

Edit: Also make sure that the connector is releasing the trigger bar when the slide comes back. It's easy to check with the slide off.

Something is definitely wrong with the connecter/trigger testing with slide off, but also my housing may not be sitting all the way down...oooof, thanks I'll keep at it and start with new connector first before I trim the housing if that will even help at this point like mgm vid I watched.

 

[Jonnyuma]

Have you ever tried (valve) lapping compound? It's slightly abrasive. Less abrasive would be polishing compound or toothpaste. You get a custom fit and your new gun will be minty fresh.

 

[DirectDrive]

Have you ever tried (valve) lapping compound? It's slightly abrasive. Less abrasive would be polishing compound or toothpaste. You get a custom fit and your new gun will be minty fresh.

I think you need a more of a lubricant just to get some of these slides moving.
Lapping compound perhaps, but only after you get the slide moving.

 

[MountainBum]

I'll take some pics this evening to share might help a bit.

 

[DirectDrive]

I'll take some pics this evening to share might help a bit.

Here's a couple things I forgot to mention....

I do believe that the P80 10/45 is based on Gen 3 SF (short frame).
Therefore you have to use the SF TMH and not the standard TMH.
Part number 5406

Also, avoid aftermarket for the small parts if at all possible.
Use genuine Glock for your small parts.
Case in point would be the Lone Wolf TMH = junk.

 

[MountainBum]

Here's a couple things I forgot to mention....

I do believe that the P80 10/45 is based on Gen 3 SF (short frame).
Therefore you have to use the SF TMH and not the standard TMH.
Part number 5406

Also, avoid aftermarket for the small parts if at all possible.
Use genuine Glock for your small parts.
Case in point would be the Lone Wolf TMH = junk.

 

[MountainBum]

Yes everything is literally oos everywhere for lpk's, only decently priced one I found was on ebay and of course it's Lone Wolf at 2x mark up...

 

[DirectDrive]

Yes everything is literally oos everywhere for lpk's, only decently priced one I found was on ebay and of course it's Lone Wolf at 2x mark up...

I tried to find a 5406 with Google Fu turned up to max settings.
There's one crook on Ebay selling for $59-something (a $7.00 part !)
Then there's Orange County Triggers with some in stock.
But they have the over-travel set screw and inflated ($40) price.

https://www.occustomtriggers.com/product.sc?productId=57&categoryId=89

 

[MountainBum]

After some more tinkering I figured out why the slides would not fully go on the 17 and 26. I am not sure what I did wrong installing....but the Firing Pin Safety Plungers were both stuck on them and would not depress so the trigger bar was hitting the plunger...I just pulled the slides apart and re-installed and they were fine woohoo!

I will update when I get the new trigger connector for the G20 and go from there if that is not the issue. I really appreciate everyone's help and input so far!

 

[OldTengu]

Similar (but different) to others above, I used aeroshell on the slide grooves. Worked great. While you do want to use OEM as much as possible, I used overwatch precision and zev for my triggers, and grey ghost for my slide parts. So far, no issues. Good Luck.

 

[MountainBum]

Similar (but different) to others above, I used aeroshell on the slide grooves. Worked great. While you do want to use OEM as much as possible, I used overwatch precision and zev for my triggers, and grey ghost for my slide parts. So far, no issues. Good Luck.

Never thought of Aeroshell, I'll do that this evening! Finally another use for my lifetime (1 can...) supply of Aeroshell...

 

[Bushman]

Interesting thread.

 

[MountainBum]

Received and installed new Connector today and problem solved with G20 woohoo!

 

[Dr Prepper]

I do believe that the P80 10/45 is based on Gen 3 SF (short frame).
Therefore you have to use the SF TMH and not the standard TMH.
Part number 5406

Also, avoid aftermarket for the small parts if at all possible.
Use genuine Glock for your small parts.
Case in point would be the Lone Wolf TMH = junk.

This.. The large frames are indeed made for SF parts. You can probably mod the gen4 housings to fit i think they may have the SF profile to begin with but the tabs may be too long.
If you made one of those fit, your pin holes may be off.

On every single one I've seen the RSA channel needs to be widened. And i put a radii or chamfer at the front "entrance" to the channel so ifthe spring does hit it its not as much of a hard hit at a angle. It doesn't take alot. Go slow. You can use some dykem or sharpie or anything that you can "paint" inside that channel then put your slide on and rack it and see where it rubs.
Theres a massive amount of garbage guide rods out there! Most of them have tons of slop between the rod and ID of the spring allowing the spring to bulge out the sides. This will bind and rub on the channel..
Ive bought like 6 diff. Brands in addition to the OEM one. Sadly that cheezy lenny mcgills "glockstore" is by far the best one out there. And not too expensive i got my last one at midway. His website sucks. Its not live, it may say its in stock but its not. Im much more apt to support midway (may even be cheaper).
He also makes a nice thick stainless "washer" thats also the best one out there for RSA. And they are like $3 a 3 pk.

If you have calipers measure the front locking block rails to the top of the frame, (assuming you didnt trim too much off) and then conpare that to the front and back rails. Should be fairly close. If not you may have drilled your pins holes off

Lastly Marine Gun Builder sucks. Im sorry i know ill catch hell for it, but some of his tips are decent, but some of his core advice is terrible.
DONT use a dremel to "drill" the holes. Use a drill. And wrap a couple layers of plumbers tape around the drill bit. This is soft and it will self center the bit. You dont need 5 layers too much and it will slightly melt the jig hole. If done correctly with only a few layers it will self center the bit and you literally wont even touch the sides of the jig hole and it could dang near last for multiple jobs.

Also make sure when you assemble your glocks for the firdt times (especially) when you know your likely to have trigger issues use cut out slide cover plate so you can see inside there or get a pick in there to release the mechanism it can save a headache from having your slide stuck on your frame.

Theres many other tips and tricks, i also advise actually calling p80 they are VERY helpful.
The large frame p80 stuff isn't at all as easy as the smaller frame stuff like the 17 &19.

Good luck.

 

[DirectDrive]

Double Jig Method
The drill jig needs to made up square and with legs long enough to span completely across the P80 jig.
Use high quality wood glue an let set up overnight.
The purpose of the drill jig is to keep your drill bit square with the frame.

The location of the drill bit is for demonstration only.

ETA
Polymer 80 recommends against using a drill press for this operation.

 

[Dr Prepper]

I actually do use a drill press on mine. Its just easier for me that way personally. What works for me may not for you.. I tape the side up and make sure they are square then i line em up and jog the quill up and down through the hole to make sure im centered (with plumbers sealant Tape) and then drill. Easy and way more accurate.
I tried marine gun builders method and it was a joke. Worst hole i ever drilled in one. I was using a fordome as well. Much better/easier to use than his dremel.