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Incorrect Oil, Dieseling

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Long time reader, first time poster; please advise if this topic is covered elsewhere.

I have mistakenly placed the wrong kind of oil into a break-barrel nitro piston Crosman Valiant .177 air rifle and it is now dieseling and as loud as a rimfire .22 pistol, was super quiet before.

I don’t have the proper equipment or expertise to disassemble the gun, wondering if anyone else out there has experienced this or can offer suggestions to rectify the issue.

Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks!
 

Ura-Ki

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Havn't heard of this for a while! LOL
Basically the air pulse of firing is igniting the oil mist during discharge via the Diesel principle, making a loud report!
Denatured alcohol should be able to flush and remove the oil and then let it sit and dry out. make sure to oil it as soon as possible to avoid moisture incursion!
 
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Bandwagon with a proviso: Alcohol should do it, but be careful of the denatured. Depending on what they used to denature it, it can damage seals (DON'T use Home Depot's brand, it is denatured with Methyl Ethyl Ketone and Acetone).

I would recommend straight 90% grain alcohol. You can get it at liquor stores or places that sell alcohol burners.
 

ZigZagZeke

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And increase the chances of damaging the seals and mechignition.

I agree with the alcohol suggestion, followed by purging as best as possible with canned air.
With mine it took about 5 shots. No damage that I can tell.
 
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With mine it took about 5 shots. No damage that I can tell.
Intended informationally; not argumentatively:
Different guns will be different, but I've tracked approximate numbers on my Stoeger X20S2. I get about 4000-4500 rounds (it is an approximation based on tins or boxes of pellets) before new seals without dieseling, and 1200-1800 rounds with dieseling (yes, I diesel this one on purpose). On all of my 'serious' guns (relative term, I know), I try to check FPE at ten feet every thousand rounds or so, then every hundred once I see it drop off 5%. At 10% I rebuild.

Back when I first learned about the 'performance upgrade' that a bottle of three-in-one affords, I had Chinese and Russian $25 guns. Just a couple of dieseled shots could take out the seals in either of those, and one cracked the striker face after less than twenty shots because of the valve being blown back too hard.
 

BPOR11

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You don't want to use anything petroleum based in an air chamber. If you need a lube, which is not usually recommended on a regular basis, use a silicon based lube. RWS has some in a needle oiler.
 

daved20319

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If you're going to bring an old thread back to life, the least you can do is post accurate, useful information. DO NOT DRY FIRE A SPRING PISTON AIR GUN!! You won't blow out excess lube, all you'll do is burn the piston seal, and quite likely damage the main spring. Yes, I know Gamo says you can dry fire their guns, but think about this. They're in business to sell MORE guns, not help you maintain the one you already bought. Also, try buying parts from Gamo, unless things have changed in the last few years, they only sell a few parts, and main springs aren't one of them. To properly lubricate a springer, you pretty much have to dismantle it, the lubricant is needed on the spring and BEHIND the piston seal, NOT in the chamber.

As to the original question, best practice is to NEVER introduce anything into the chamber via the transfer port, and that includes alcohol. If it's dieseling, try running a few heavy for caliber pellets through it. That should slow things down enough to prevent the supersonic crack, while still burning up the excess lubricant.
 
OP
jleavy1977
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UPDATE: I contacted the manufacturer and was advised to soak the chamber with the proper oil for 24 hours, fire until it started dieseling again, then repeat. It eventually worked itself out and I have a quiet air gun again!

Now I'm on the hunt to find someone that knows how to repair an old Daisy CO2 200 air pistol...from everything I've read these things are obsolete and can't be easily fixed - but with determination they CAN be repaired. If anyone out there can make a recommendation on someone local to So_Oregon I would greatly appreciate it!
 
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(sadly) Ollie Damon's has been closed for a year now.

The only place I know that has reasonable rates for repairs these days is Baker Air Guns in Ohio. Last I heard, it was taking about three weeks for anything 'mainstream', and about eight weeks for more 'interesting' airguns to be turned around.

I had them put seals in my M200 about a year and a half ago. The work and parts came to $18.75. The return shipping was $20...
 
OP
jleavy1977
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(sadly) Ollie Damon's has been closed for a year now.

The only place I know that has reasonable rates for repairs these days is Baker Air Guns in Ohio. Last I heard, it was taking about three weeks for anything 'mainstream', and about eight weeks for more 'interesting' airguns to be turned around.

I had them put seals in my M200 about a year and a half ago. The work and parts came to $18.75. The return shipping was $20...
Excellent, thanks for the info - I'll check them out!
 

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