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It's super easy to do with the right tools. And "the right tools" is surprisingly simple, just a wrench that fits the nut and something to gauge torque with. An upper block is nice but not necessary. The most basic setup can handle all but the most stuck of nuts. If you have some tools and want to make the attempt yourself I can help walk you through the process.
 
It's super easy to do with the right tools. And "the right tools" is surprisingly simple, just a wrench that fits the nut and something to gauge torque with. An upper block is nice but not necessary. The most basic setup can handle all but the most stuck of nuts. If you have some tools and want to make the attempt yourself I can help walk you through the process.
I have all the proper stuff except for a vise. I'm about to just duct tape it to my table
 
I have all the proper stuff except for a vise. I'm about to just duct tape it to my table
Check the specs for your manufacturer, but some of them are low enough you can just crank on the nut while holding it between your knees. You only really need the vice mount for the nuts that need the higher range of torque specs.

But really, this is not a pressure rated component, all it really needs to do is keep the barrel in place tight enough it cannot shift or wiggle. As long as it is not going to move under recoil or abuse it is tight enough. And you definitely do not want it too tight either, as that causes other problems that can be a real pain to try and sort out to fix.

I would not use this standard for anyone else's rifle, but for my own plinkers and project guns "seems tight enough" is probably tight enough. I only break out all the tools if I am working on a buddy's gun or I intend to use the rifle for something I need to count on it for.
 
Check the specs for your manufacturer, but some of them are low enough you can just crank on the nut while holding it between your knees. You only really need the vice mount for the nuts that need the higher range of torque specs.

But really, this is not a pressure rated component, all it really needs to do is keep the barrel in place tight enough it cannot shift or wiggle. As long as it is not going to move under recoil or abuse it is tight enough. And you definitely do not want it too tight either, as that causes other problems that can be a real pain to try and sort out to fix.

I would not use this standard for anyone else's rifle, but for my own plinkers and project guns "seems tight enough" is probably tight enough. I only break out all the tools if I am working on a buddy's gun or I intend to use the rifle for something I need to count on it for.
I tried doing that and even using my armorers wrench but to avail. I'm just gonna go ahead and call the shop I despise and see if they can't do it for me.
 
I tried doing that and even using my armorers wrench but to avail. I'm just gonna go ahead and call the shop I despise and see if they can't do it for me.
Oh yeah, getting off a factory installed nut can be a PITA those can be 60-80 lb/f, depending on the exact style being used. Can be done, but needs way too much effort. If all you need is the nut off and you think you can install the other one yourself you may be able to get the shop to just wrench on it once for you if you bring it in and they are not too busy. Like everyone else here I would help, but I am not sure you want to make a multi-hour drive for a 5 minute job.
 
Try clamping your upper between a couple 2x4 screwed together then screwed to a work bench. should work as vise at least enough to get the barrel nut off
 
Try clamping your upper between a couple 2x4 screwed together then screwed to a work bench. should work as vise at least enough to get the barrel nut off
When I say this, I do of course mean putting something between your gun and 2x4 to keep from damaging upper. I work in Eugene tomarrow, pending on timing I could Probly swing threw Springfield and give you a hand if you think you need it.
 
Check the specs for your manufacturer, but some of them are low enough you can just crank on the nut while holding it between your knees. You only really need the vice mount for the nuts that need the higher range of torque specs.

But really, this is not a pressure rated component, all it really needs to do is keep the barrel in place tight enough it cannot shift or wiggle. As long as it is not going to move under recoil or abuse it is tight enough. And you definitely do not want it too tight either, as that causes other problems that can be a real pain to try and sort out to fix.

I would not use this standard for anyone else's rifle, but for my own plinkers and project guns "seems tight enough" is probably tight enough. I only break out all the tools if I am working on a buddy's gun or I intend to use the rifle for something I need to count on it for.
" ...you can just crank on the nut while holding it between your knees."

I see you have been using one of these.

View: https://youtu.be/KHXnnNrQ9Kk?feature=shared
 

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