Has anyone ever done this?

[41mag]

ive even removed live primers.

pondering pros/cons on such a project

 

[DLS]

... If you're talking about rifle cartridges, the problem with resizing cases with live primers in place is removal of the case lube...

When dealing with primed cases, I've always used the lube pad method and motor mica for the necks. I don't clean the lube off until new bullets are seated. There is no ay any lub gts to the primer this way.

 

[Mygrainman]

Problem with using the chamber of your FA to check your sizing is twofold... For me at least. With an AR if the case is oversized, you run the risk of it sticking in the camber and upon extraction risk damaging charge handle and/or the extractor. Two not all chambers are equal. Some will work fine in one chamber, but stick in another. I've figured what will work in which best by how the case fits in the case checker. I do try to fireform for my more precision FAs, but the batch in question is just a bulk batch of cheap 55grain I loaded for plinking. The case checker is invaluable now, because I can quickly sort through the batch and see what's what.
this is the batch I'm sorting...


If the case looks like this and I tried to put it in my Noveske Barrel with the early Mod0 chamber(notoriously tight chambers), I'd brake the charge handle before it extracted...these are set aside to be pulled apart and resized.


If it looks like this, it will stick in the tighter chambers, but will cycle fine in my sons PSA barrel.
This is what they should look like....

With the 300 blackout, you also have to make sure it doesn't go in too far...

 

[Argonaut]

I have some loaded 0.308 rounds I can't use (it's a kinda long story). However, if I could pull the bullets I could reload the primed brass.

I am wondering if I could remove the decapping pin from a resizing die and resize the brass again with the primer still in place. I am thinking the press would put some upward pressure on the base of the brass but it would be uniformly distributed. To me, it seems unlikely the primer would go off.

The primers are seating correctly. By that I mean they are deep enough so the surface of the primer is just below the surface of the head of the case.

Has anyone ever done this successfully, or is it just a totally crazing idea?

It seems to me that if the brass is ready to fire now, it has already been resized.....I would gently pull the bullets, charge and replace the bullets with what I wanted. It is easy to measure the ammo as it is to see if resizing is nessisary.

 

[gmerkt]

When dealing with primed cases, I've always used the lube pad method and motor mica for the necks. I don't clean the lube off until new bullets are seated. There is no ay any lub gts to the primer this way.

But then you have the issue of case lube on your work during the charging process.

Add me to the list of those using cartridge head space gauges. They are wonderful for checking your work before you've loaded several hundred rounds. This will help if you've got some defect going with case preparation; won't help if you've done an overcharge, changed your mind about components, etc.

Two ideas I don't like for safety reasons:

1. Resizing complete loaded rounds.

2. Checking cartridge head space in a weapon chamber. Aside from potential safety issues, it's one way to get a round stuck as someone already said above.

 

[ron]

Common problem with sizing bottle neck rifle cases is not correctly adjusting the
sizer die to bring down the shoulder of the case to spec. Cases not properly sized
can stick in the chamber preventing extraction or rifle not going into battery.
I have used 308 Wilson brand chamber checker that did not work. The case
would go into the chamber checker but into my 308 rifle. I use the RCBS precision
Mic [223, 308, 30/06] to measure the resized case to adjust the sizer die. It can
be used to measure a fired case and adjust the sizing die to a few thousands less.
Taylor made ammo for a specific rifle. With my semi auto rifles I full length size
with RCBS dies to '0' reading on the Precision Mic.
RCBS Precision Mic

 

[DLS]

But then you have the issue of case lube on your work during the charging process...

This is true, but it's only a very thin layer on the case body when using a pad. I've not found charging to be an issue since the neck is dry and is the only portion of the case to contact the powder dispenser.

I keep a shop towel on the bench to wipe my fingers as I handle the cases. By the time charging and seating are accomplished there is very little lube left to remove, a quick wipe while placing in an ammo box accomplishs the task.

Just my thoughts on the subject, I hope it helps.

 

[JRuby]

If you decide to do this with live primers please use plenty of case lube. I do not think this is the smartest move because of what it takes to remove a stuck case with a live primer.

Now never do this as it is dangerous but I have drilled a live primer out of a stuck case in a die.. It was not the smartest thing I ever did and I took safety precautions doing this. A smart man prevents themselves if possible from doing stupid stuff. Primers are cheap eye balls not so much.

 

[P7M13]

I've done it with multiple calibers. Based on my experience here are the limitations:

1. If it has a bullet seated, I must have a bushing die or the same case with the next size up bullet -- for exasmple, resizing a 7mm-08 in a 308, or checking/resizing a 308 in a neck bushing die with the bushings removed.
   If you push it up into the neck sizer, and the brass diameter with the seated bullet is larger, you're going to crunch something.
2. If I do not have the available die like above, I pull, and reload. I don't waste the primer, tho. Here is where RCBS and Hornady dies rock, you can remove the primer pin. I then move the expander ball up a little.
3. In any case, I move the ram deliberately, smooth and slow.

Yes, I've decapped live primers. Not something I like to do, at all. I've probably thrown away more primed casings than decapped live.

 

[Retired Guy]

Problem with using the chamber of your FA to check your sizing is twofold... For me at least. With an AR if the case is oversized, you run the risk of it sticking in the camber and upon extraction risk damaging charge handle and/or the extractor. Two not all chambers are equal. Some will work fine in one chamber, but stick in another. I've figured what will work in which best, but how the case fits in the case checker. I do try to fireform for my more precision FAs, but the batch in question is just a bulk batch of cheap 55grain I loaded for plinking. The case checker is invaluable now, because I can quickly sort through the batch and see what's what.
this is the batch I'm sorting...
View attachment 452535

If the case looks like this and I tried to put it in my Noveske Barrel with the early Mod0 chamber(notoriously tight chambers), I'd brake the charge handle before it extracted...
View attachment 452533

If it looks like this, it will stick in the tighter chambers, but will cycle fine in my sons PSA barrel. View attachment 452532
This is what they should look like....View attachment 452530

With the 300 blackout, you also have to make sure it doesn't go in too far...

Not to mention that the case gauge will tell you if your brass needs to be trimmed too.

 

[DizzyJ]

I have done it without a hitch as well... I also have de-capped live primers... Slowly...with my head and body well away from the press.

Never had a problem, but weird bubblegum happens, so...

This.

 

[ma96782]

It seems to me that if the brass is ready to fire now, it has already been resized.....I would gently pull the bullets, charge and replace the bullets with what I wanted. It is easy to measure the ammo as it is to see if resizing is nessisary.

MY WARNING.....
Depending on the method used and how forceful you need to be in order to remove the old bullet.....well, you could be pulling the neck and/or shoulder of the brass forward. IMHO.....check the brass (every piece) with a gauge just to be sure.

++++++

So then.....removing the bullet and replacing with a better (Match) bullet was called......making "Mexican Match Ammo." Since it sometimes happened (as I have described above*) it made good sense to check the brass with a case gauge. Additionally, sometimes/often, even the powder was changed or re-weighed just to keep everything consistent.

*Military ammo frequently uses a case sealant (a tar like substance) on the bullet to keep it water resistant. Sometimes the sealant would act like glue and really cement the bullets into the necks. Sometimes it would be enough, just to use a bullet seater to gently push the bullet further down just a bit....in order to break that bond.

++++++

STORY ABOUT USING MY CASE GAUGE.....
My reloaded ammo fit my M1a easily. But, when I tried the same ammo in my bolt action Rem 700....well, it didn't chamber. That batch of ammo got regulated for use only in the M1a. Humm.....but, I don't want that to happen again. So, I screwed down the re-sizing die down a bit more. The new ammo is just passing, in the gauge test. Remember, there is a high and a low cut, to test for re-sized brass to still be acceptable. Now, the ammo would work in both rifles.

Bottom line: chambers vary and a little bit could be all the difference.

And.......cam over, while re-sizing. I hope you're doing that...RIGHT?


Aloha, Mark

PS....WARNING....there are different types of gauges available to the reloader. One is for testing the headspace of your resized brass (no bullet involved). The other is used for testing your finished loaded ammo.

 

[DLS]

... Sometimes the sealant would act like glue and really cement the bullets into the necks. Sometimes it would be enough, just to use a bullet seater to gently push the bullet further down just a bit....in order to break that bond ...

This is fantastic advise for pulling sealant secured bullets, but it's also a good idea before pulling any bullets. Even without sealant, pulling will be easier if you move the bullet down just a bit first. This breaks any galvanic bonding that may have occurred between the bullet jacket and case neck and will reduce the amount of stretching the neck might suffer during the pulling process.

 

[L308]

Just wanted to let you know that I tried Argonaut's suggestion (pull the bullets, empty the case, put in the correct power charge, and seat the bullets again). That seemed to work very well.

 

[Member 5605]

Problem with using the chamber of your FA to check your sizing is twofold........

With the 300 blackout, you also have to make sure it doesn't go in too far...

LOL.. I had to pull and resize around 250 .223 because of this a couple years back. .005" extra headspace was a b*#& to fix and I learned my lesson.

AR-15 (I have to keep mortaring to get rounds out)