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Is one of the questions asking if you sit down to pee?
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Free stuff giveaway
- Thread Starter wired
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Is one of the questions asking if you sit down to pee?
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Its Vinnie so you we tailored the questions for him.
More like do you promoise to not be a douche? Do you own NFA stuff etc. Nothing crazy.
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A few years ago I interviewed and accepted a job a the pharmaceutical company that makes summers eve and fleet enemas as their plant engineer. I ended up taking another job and called the douchebag plant that morning telling them I was declining their offer. After I got to my new job I figured out it sucked within a few hours and called the douche company begging them to take me. They told me to get bent. I couldn't figure out who was the bigger douche them or me. Probably meAh, come on, man! Everyone knows I'm like a summer s breeze
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A few years ago I interviewed and accepted a job a the pharmaceutical company that makes summers eve and fleet enemas as their plant engineer. I ended up taking another job and called the douchebag plant that morning telling them I was declining their offer. After I got to my new job I figured out it sucked within a few hours and called the douche company begging them to take me. They told me to get bent. I couldn't figure out who was the bigger douche them or me. Probably me
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That right there is some funny chit!!!!
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Yes we all follow FB rulesYes, but I had to laugh , as their FB group rules there no promotions LOL
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One of the VERY FEW times I miss being on Facebook!! Sigh
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Good grief! What is the difference between free stuff giveaway and Paying it forward? Don't want to do it, then don't sign up.
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I, for one, would be happy and honored to shoot this on a regular basis!!!
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Its gonna get the full treatment
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I'd be happy to hold it for you!
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pick me! pick me!
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Forgive the grammatical errors. I type fast and dont care.
This is the beginning of the build and I'll do a step by step as I go through the process. Silencer design has evolved over the years. Back in the old days they just clamped a silencer on the barrel and called it a day. Maybe one got screwed on if you had a smith thread the barrel. Some of the silencer designs Maxim put out in the day were quite good but they generally didn't have a good handle on ammo selection for longer barrels to work with semiauto pistols. Then the NFA came along and that tribal knowledge got lost as WW2 came around and the military needed suppressed pistols to take out sentries and assassinate those who needed assassinating. Bell labs developed the ported barrel integrals as used in my favorite suppressed 22 , the HDM/s. Thats all fine and dandy but they used screen washers and rolls of bronze screen to soak up the burnt gasses and cool them before they went out the end and they ported , or drilled holes in the barrel to make it all work which flat out kills bullet velocity. Some of those ported barrel designs had bullets coming out at 700 FPS which is fine for point blank Nazi brain scrambling but falls short if you actually want the gun to be useful and not just a quiet toy that needs rebuilding every 200 or less rounds.
What makes the ideal suppressed pistol in the 21st century? IMHO you want a barrel thats no less than 3.5" to 4" long. NO PORTING !!! That way you can use normal ammo and most of the time it will be subsonic anyway. Mini mags from a 4" barrel are subsonic most times of the year and at most normal people altitudes. Start drilling holes in the barrel you might as well just cut that barrel off where you ported it because its a useless chunk of metal after that. I still have customers asking for 2" barrels to build integrals but if you have a good silencer or baffle design in your integral you dont need that. 5" of core is all you need. That brings us to the next thing you need to make a good integral silencer and thats baffles. Even a couple of years ago if you were a form 1 builder you could still buy "solvent traps " or "sauce cups" or whatever other euphemism you can make up for undrilled baffles there were no good 22 baffles on the market. You could always machine your own but lets face it most form 1 builders weren't into learning new skills or buying 10 grand worth of machinery to do that. For those of us with 07/02 SOT's that do have equipment there are a lot of other options. I designed and had build from my specifications clipped indexed radials based on what my experience and what Ive seen works and I think their the best 22 baffles on the manufacturer market. Thats what Im going to be using here. I digress.
So back to the matter at hand. The Ruger Mark II. This particular gun has been a test bed of mine for 20+ years. It had a 3 1/2" barrel on it but had been threaded 1/2-20 a long time ago and the base section was threaded 15/16-28 which is my normal tube threading . Im going to replace that barrel though with new takeoff from a Mark IV. So , how do I make a mark 4 barrel fit a Mark 2? Its easy if you have tools to do it with but getting the old barrel out without destroying the receiver can be difficult on Rugers but luckily Bill Ruger , may he burn in hell, was lazy and basically just glued his barrels in with Loctite. Heat them up and most of the time they'll unscrew without a lot of gymnastics . I have removed the original barrel from the receiver and you can see what I will need to do to adapt the Mark IV barrel to the Mark II receiver . That flat towards the back of the barrel needs to be enlarged. Thats it . A little on the back and more of the front. That will be the next post. Then I'll turn the rest of the barrel down to size, shorten it and thread it in the lathe to accept the parts it needs to screw the tube on.
This is the beginning of the build and I'll do a step by step as I go through the process. Silencer design has evolved over the years. Back in the old days they just clamped a silencer on the barrel and called it a day. Maybe one got screwed on if you had a smith thread the barrel. Some of the silencer designs Maxim put out in the day were quite good but they generally didn't have a good handle on ammo selection for longer barrels to work with semiauto pistols. Then the NFA came along and that tribal knowledge got lost as WW2 came around and the military needed suppressed pistols to take out sentries and assassinate those who needed assassinating. Bell labs developed the ported barrel integrals as used in my favorite suppressed 22 , the HDM/s. Thats all fine and dandy but they used screen washers and rolls of bronze screen to soak up the burnt gasses and cool them before they went out the end and they ported , or drilled holes in the barrel to make it all work which flat out kills bullet velocity. Some of those ported barrel designs had bullets coming out at 700 FPS which is fine for point blank Nazi brain scrambling but falls short if you actually want the gun to be useful and not just a quiet toy that needs rebuilding every 200 or less rounds.
What makes the ideal suppressed pistol in the 21st century? IMHO you want a barrel thats no less than 3.5" to 4" long. NO PORTING !!! That way you can use normal ammo and most of the time it will be subsonic anyway. Mini mags from a 4" barrel are subsonic most times of the year and at most normal people altitudes. Start drilling holes in the barrel you might as well just cut that barrel off where you ported it because its a useless chunk of metal after that. I still have customers asking for 2" barrels to build integrals but if you have a good silencer or baffle design in your integral you dont need that. 5" of core is all you need. That brings us to the next thing you need to make a good integral silencer and thats baffles. Even a couple of years ago if you were a form 1 builder you could still buy "solvent traps " or "sauce cups" or whatever other euphemism you can make up for undrilled baffles there were no good 22 baffles on the market. You could always machine your own but lets face it most form 1 builders weren't into learning new skills or buying 10 grand worth of machinery to do that. For those of us with 07/02 SOT's that do have equipment there are a lot of other options. I designed and had build from my specifications clipped indexed radials based on what my experience and what Ive seen works and I think their the best 22 baffles on the manufacturer market. Thats what Im going to be using here. I digress.
So back to the matter at hand. The Ruger Mark II. This particular gun has been a test bed of mine for 20+ years. It had a 3 1/2" barrel on it but had been threaded 1/2-20 a long time ago and the base section was threaded 15/16-28 which is my normal tube threading . Im going to replace that barrel though with new takeoff from a Mark IV. So , how do I make a mark 4 barrel fit a Mark 2? Its easy if you have tools to do it with but getting the old barrel out without destroying the receiver can be difficult on Rugers but luckily Bill Ruger , may he burn in hell, was lazy and basically just glued his barrels in with Loctite. Heat them up and most of the time they'll unscrew without a lot of gymnastics . I have removed the original barrel from the receiver and you can see what I will need to do to adapt the Mark IV barrel to the Mark II receiver . That flat towards the back of the barrel needs to be enlarged. Thats it . A little on the back and more of the front. That will be the next post. Then I'll turn the rest of the barrel down to size, shorten it and thread it in the lathe to accept the parts it needs to screw the tube on.
Last Edited:
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More work to the Mark II special. I machined the front lug recess and machined the Mark 4 barrel to 5/8-24. mocked it up to check fitment and its all good.
Next I'll be making the rear adapter/cap threaded 5/8-24 inside and 15/16-24 outside and a middle support .
Next I'll be making the rear adapter/cap threaded 5/8-24 inside and 15/16-24 outside and a middle support .
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Fresh out of the shop oven. H-146 Cerakote over blasted steel.
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Beautiful!
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