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After two years of hemming and hawing over a silencer design, waiting 11 months for ATF approval and another year of waffling over baffle design, I finally built and tested another 50 caliber rifle silencer. This one is for an LAR Grizzly 50 BMG rifle, my previous design was for a much smaller 510 whisper.

It doesn't hurt my ears to shoot in the open without protection, but I'll use ears plugs when I shoot it in the future.

With the KRRC unable to allow gun use and Poulsbo Sportsman Club unwilling to let me shoot it there, where is the closest gun club to Bremerton without caliber restrictions?

Randy
[email protected]
(360) 440-5889
 
Pretty quiet!

You mention 1/2-14 threads, that's a pipe thread. Interesting!

Have you used a db meter on it yet?
I think he mis-spoke in the video. How can you have a 1/2" thread and push a .510 bullet through it? The barrel thickness would be zero. Probably threaded 1-1/2"-14
 
The problem with those meters is that their response time is very slow. Take a look here; http://www.silencertalk.com/results.htm

Al Paulson's book on silencers says a meter and microphone need about a 20 micro second response time to accurately measure the impulse noise of a gun. http://www.amazon.com/Silencer-Performance-Sporting-Tactical-Silencers/dp/0873649095

If I use a cheap meter it will probably tell me the noise is 20-40 decibels less than it actually is. This is a 100-10000 times less noise.

I'll just have to be satisfied with how it sounds and continue to wear ear plugs.

Randy
 
I have threaded hundreds of barrels for muzzle breaks and suppressor's on my manual engine lathe. But I have never thought of using a tapered pipe thread. Mostly because I would have to stick it in a cnc lathe to do it, or do it manually with a pipe thread die.
But with using a pipe thread, it will tighten without having the need for a shoulder. Which is a great idea!
 
It is not a tapered pipe thread. I cut them straight with a 60 degree insert then chased it with a plug die. The rear end cap indexes on the barrel in back of the threads, the barrel in front of the threads and on the face of the muzzle.

Randy
 
endcaphalves_zpse7a27559.jpg

First attempt at cutting threads, tap got stuck and I had to cut the piece off of it.

bit_zps116c66c9.jpg

I ruined 5 inserts getting the threads right.

50calendcap_zps549ed497.jpg

Completed threads. The unthreaded area mates against the barrel in back of the threads.

50calendcap2_zps7003fe5f.jpg

The piece on top mates with the threaded area in front of the barrel threads and on the muzzle.

weldedendcap_zps6a15973e.jpg

Completed rear end cap.

baffle%20spacer_zpsyhoxysaf.jpg

60 degree step cone baffle and spacer. Baffle is about .010", spacer is about .060" thick.

jig_zpsghucsyoq.jpg

I used a piece of scrap 2" tubing as a welding jig. I tacked the spacer and baffle together through the hole, then welded it while it was pressed tightly between centers in the lathe.

baffle%20with%20spacers_zps9uwutozv.jpg

Baffle press fit between spacer prior to tacking.

bmgcan2_zpsc4a306e2.jpg

The lower drawing is the approximate design used. The last baffle is actually a flat baffle with a slight cone in the center.

suppressed%20LAR_zps6vdfefon.jpg

Assembled silencer prior to welding/painting.

painted%20can_zpszfxaynrf.jpg

Done.


Randy
 
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Randy,

Is this something you are going to have produced? I'm in need of one if you are! And yes of course I know there is proper paper work to fill out! I have a Bushmaster BA 50 that is quite a tack driver, has a huge muzzle break in place. But it is still unpleasant to shoot, with all the side blast!
 
I make my silencers on an ATF form 1; I don't have a license to make them for sale. If you're not too far from the Bremerton area and have access to a lathe I can show you how to make one.

Randy
(360) 440-5889
 

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