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hey so ive been using Unique cause i have a whole lot of it. works fine, just dirty and doesnt meter real well. the dirty isnt a big deal to me.

Ive got a RadioShack 3v mobile-phone vibrate motor attached to my powder measure. The motor improves the consistency of the throws, but they are still only +/- .1grain. Tapping the hopper before each throw gets down to (i would guess) +/- .05grain. I think another motor in a different axis, or a larger motor would work better . . .

Anyways, what powder do you guys use that meters close to the consistent accuracy of trickling each charge into a balance beam scale?
 
My first question would be "What powder dispenser are you using". I've never had Unique be off more than .2 gr even with a cheap "almost all plastic" measure/dispenser.

I don't use any "vibrators" on either my Dillon or RCBS powder measures and they usually will keep a powder like unique close to the +/-.2 gr error by just using the same technique for operating the measure for each charge. The problem with vibrating or tapping is that it can also cause powder to settle on the measuring drum or slide and cause wide powder weight variations. For most consistent charges, install a baffle in your powder measure other than just the little plastic "bar" that some use. Google "Uncle Nick's Powder Baffles" for a downloadable template to make your own.

Next is to operate the measure exactly the same each time. If a drum type, raise the handle giving it a firm thump against the stop then lower the handle, again giving it a firm slap against the stop. Do this the same for each charge, not vibrating or tapping the measure between charges.

If that doesn't work for you, consider another powder measure. If you still want to change then go to Power Pistol. It's a less "flakey" powder and might meter better for you. Also gives better speeds to your loads.
 
lee pro auto-disk on a load-master progressive. win 296 ball powder i use for 30carbine meters perfect, less than +/- .1gr. i am hoping to get that kind of accuracy. i left out a decimal point in my op. :s0131: fixed now. am i aiming for the impossible here?
 
My favorite is Bullseye, and I run it thru a Dillon 550 press.

I also use 231, Unique, Auto-Comp and a few others with no problems.

I know my powder measure is attached to a progressive machine, so my post here may be a moot point.
But, just thought I'd post that I'm not having any metering problems with any of the powders I use.
 
HS-6 and Clays both burn VERY clean. I run it through a Pro Auto Disk on a Loadmaster also. I'm really glad that they finally fixed the primer feed system. I actually like it now...
 
so is better than +/- .1gr too much to hope for from Unique in a measure?

yeah the loadmaster is my first progressive, im pretty pleased with it but i dont mind tinkering and adjusting, though that **** lamp pull chain is starting to get on my nerves. i dont think i will very willingly go back to using a single stage unless im doing some super fine tuned match rifle ammo or something. . .
 
so is better than +/- .1gr too much to hope for from Unique in a measure?

yeah the loadmaster is my first progressive, im pretty pleased with it but i dont mind tinkering and adjusting, though that **** lamp pull chain is starting to get on my nerves. i dont think i will very willingly go back to using a single stage unless im doing some super fine tuned match rifle ammo or something. . .

Plus or Minus .1 gr. is pretty much what to expect from just about any powder measure. For any closer one will have to use a trickler. FWIW, +/- .1 gr is the level of accuracy for most standard reloading scales.

As for the "bathtub chain" on your Lee powder measure, I too got PO'd over it when I was still using my Lee progressive. I fabricated an "L" bracket and attached it to the cast base that holds the shell holder. I then put a "Z" bend on the end of a piece of welding rod. This was then attached to the lever on the measure with the straight part going through a hole in the "L" bracket. To make it so this rod would pull the lever down but "float" when the powder measure was activated, I used a plastic "Drill Bit Stop". It looked just like a miniature version of a drill chuck that slipped over the rod and then could be clamped down to hold it in place. I also considered threading the rod and using a jamb nut with small spring sort of like the "fail safe" rod on a Dillon press. For me, this didn't solve my other gripes about the Lee Progressive presses so I now just use mine for de-priming large batches of brass prior to cleaning.
 
so is better than +/- .1gr too much to hope for from Unique in a measure?

yeah the loadmaster is my first progressive, im pretty pleased with it but i dont mind tinkering and adjusting, though that **** lamp pull chain is starting to get on my nerves. i dont think i will very willingly go back to using a single stage unless im doing some super fine tuned match rifle ammo or something. . .

I ordered a new Pro Auto to set up for another caliber and it came with a new spring setup and the chain is not needed. Their engineering marches on, thankfully.
 
I've used Unique in the past and had the same dirty results as you, I switched to Power Pistol, it burns much cleaner and seems to meter a little more consistantly also.
 
Never noticed (the old) Unique was dirty until I started using it for revolver loads. I bought some about 10 months ago and the label says "cleaner burning". It does seem to be cleaner.
 
I believe I have been using 6.0 grains Universal w/ a 230g JHP. Shoots nice out of my Kimber. I started out using it because I had a pound that was given to me but liked it so much that I just bought a 4lb jug of it. I agree about the Unique. My friend uses it on my press and it leaves a mess everytime-both on the press and on the gun after firing. H110 does the same thing when I am loading .357, always trickling out of the powder funnel when I rotate the shell plate on my 550. Even with a freshly cleaned funnel it sticks to the sides a bit
 
Most progressive loaders SAY to run 15-25 cases thru the powder stage, before loading for real.

Bumping or taping the powder measure helps to settle the powder to final density.

Ball (sperical) or disk (flake) powders work best in all progressive loaders.

There are special powder measures that do better with the extruded powders(like pencil lead rods).

After the powder settles, weight the next 10 thrown case powder charges on your electronic scale, and divide by 10 to get the average thrown wtg. If where you want to be, throw 2 more and weight each to test for consistancey.

By now you will have primed and dumped 30 or so back into the measure and all so should be good to go.

A powder check station as on the Dillons will alert you to a no or double charge, and checking again some 50 rds later will tell you are on the right track.

A deviation of +/- .1 gr should/or will not be a great difference in accuracy.

Just my .02c, sr

As for 45 acp, All the loads mentioned work. OLD Military STandard Duplication load was 5.0->5.3 grs of Alliant Reddot. Approaches 800-835 fps at std pressures, from a 5" barrel.
 
More info from the Alliant reloading data manual:

230 gr Speer TMJ RN Bullseye CCI 300 Speer 1.260" 5.7grs, 840fps
230 gr Speer TMJ RN Red Dot CCI 300 Speer 1.260" 5.3grs, 839fps
230 gr Speer TMJ RN Unique CCI 300 Speer 1.260" 6.5grs. 832fps
230 gr Speer TMJ RN Power Pistol CCI 300 Speer 1.260" 8.1grs, 916fps

These are their published MAX loads. Also showing loads for 230 lead. If you need more help PM me or contact John Huey on this site for reloading class info or Dillon products locally. Good Luck
 

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