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Hey all!

I recently picked up a 637 as a range trainer.

First day at the range was fantastic! Ran almost 2 boxes of ArmsCor 158gr FMJ standard pressure .38 Special through it and it was just as accurate and pleasant as I expected it to be. Those little j-frames... I love em, at least. :)

Well, I am proudly showing off my new revolver to a friend last night and he noticed what looked to be a crack in the frame?
Skeptical, I replied "no way. I haven't even run two full boxes though this little cutie. Show me what you are talking about."
So he does, and to my shock and awe, I can see what looks to be a pretty serious crack in the frame of the revolver!

I will contact Smith and Wesson and follow the process needed for repair/replacement (I cannot see how this could be repaired without replacing the frame), but my question to those reading this thread is: has anyone else seen a newer Airweight break like this? With under 100 rounds through it?:(

20190420_225205.jpg
 
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I haven't experienced the cracked frame but a 642 I had was such a sloppy loose goose, I'll never own another.
My main carry, a 442 (which I believe is more or less the same as a 642 just with different finish and carbon steel vs stainless steel cylinder and barrel) has been absolute aces and tight as freshly laced oxfords.
I probably have at least 900-1200 rounds through the 442 and it has only gotten better the more and more I shoot it (maybe it has more down range? I always run at least 50 through it semi-weekly, often 100, and have repeated this pattern since last summer).

It seems crazy to me that ANY revolver would develop a crack so soon (I've got 86 rounds through this 637), if ever. Especially when only using factory ammo.
Anyone seen anything like this on their, or their friends', Airweights? Did I just get lucky?
 
The photo below highlights the area of concern. There is what looks to be a crack running upwards from the point of the toothpick, as well as what doesn't look or feel like intentional machining, running closer to the area where the hammer stops.

When running a toothpick across the seams of the sideplate/frame junctions it feels smooth, the points of concern feel "crunchy" or rough, which is what makes me believe the frame is cracked.
Maybe I've cracked? Regardless, I hope this photo helps illustrate the area of concern (to me).

15558920349148027120962054078501.jpg
 
I think they will be more than happy to get that gun out of your hands and replace it ASAP. Be thankful nothing came of it other than being disappointed.
I hope so, and I am extremely thankful for my friend's close eyes and attention to detail! I have a range day scheduled in 8 days. That could have been bad!!

My main concern is that I did purchase the revolver second hand from it's original owner, and S&W may make some kind of stink about that fact. I am honest, as I believe everyone should be, and I will fully inform S&W of all that information when I speak with them.

The seller assured me that under 10 rounds had been fired through the revolver, which I truly believe to be fact, based on the fouling, wear, or really: lack thereof, when it came into my hands. (The cylinder didn't even show turn lines and the recoil area, where firing pin resides and the backs of the cartridges would slam against under recoil, showed no sign of use; after my range session last week I cleaned the revolver with the care I give all my firearms, and noticed the typical wipe off/wear of the finish I expect with the airweight series, which was PERFECT/flawless/new when I got it, further leading me to believe the round count stated at the time of purchase was true, correct and honest).

Maybe its just me, but it seems crazy that the frame would ever crack, especially so quickly when just running factory range/target ammo. Hot hand-loads, okay maybe? But this was just range ammo, and this revolver does say +P on the barrel. :/
(I haven't fired any +P through this revolver, and until the concern is resolved I won't be firing ANYTHING through it.)

Again, I have run exactly 86 rounds through this revolver. I know that number to be true as I had 2 boxes of 50 ArmsCor 158gr FMJ .38 Special standard pressure for the range session and ran 2 cylinders of those boxes through my 686+ (7 round cylinder twice = 14 rounds NOT through the 637).
2 x 50 = 100 total, - (2 x 7 = 14 through 686+), so 100 total - 14 = 86 rounds though the 637.
I saved the boxes and brass of the ammo I ran through this 637 last week. (Hoping to start reloading soon, so I've been saving my brass.)
My 442 has been rock-solid as has my friends 642, which makes me think maybe I just got "lucky" with this 637? I still trust my 442 and would really like to believe that this is an anomaly/oddity.

Nobody has seen anything like this before?
 
Maybe its just me however the "crack" that I believe you are pointing to with the toothpick is present in all of my "J" and "K" frames and if I had any "N" frames they would have it too. I believe the "crack" you are pointing to is the parting line between the frame and the sideplate.o_O
 
lockwork.jpg

I believe that edzz is correct. Your "crack" may be the joining line for the side plate and the frame. Many years ago I thought I broke my Model 15 but alas it was just the side plate joining line.
 
Maybe its just me however the "crack" that I believe you are pointing to with the toothpick is present in all of my "J" and "K" frames and if I had any "N" frames they would have it too. I believe the "crack" you are pointing to is the parting line between the frame and the sideplate.o_O
I hear ya, but I think we're looking at different "cracks."
I've attached a few pictures to highlight and hopefully illustrate what I am concerned about. Maybe it's nothing and I'm crazy.

One photo is my 686+, the other photo is my 637. Hopefully my photography skills can display what I am concerned about. (I'm working with a "smart phone" and admittedly not a professional photographer. :p )

686+ where side plate meets frame (side plate and frame contact points are pretty visible and clear with nothing weird and nice smooth lines from machining):
15559113561433744435504265020052.jpg
637 where side plate meets frame.
My concern is that little crack creeping up about halfway along that seam):
15559114849716065680221225582831.jpg
While it's a little hard to see in these photos, maybe zooming in might help or make it easier to see, the area of concern is VERY easy to see in real life. One of the things that really jumps out to me is that on the 686, the side plate is clearly machined and mates up smoothly and with what looks like an intentional radius to its profile, while the 637s same area isn't rounded/smooth/intentional looking. I.e. it looks like it is cracked?
I will try to figure out a way to edit/highlight these photos to emphasize my area of concern, but maybe I'm off base and this is normal or nothing to worry about?

There isn't a known concern with these revolvers is there? Anyone seen anything like this before?
 
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Here are a few close up/zoom shots of the area of my concern. Forgive the crummy photos. I'm working with a smart phone, not a nice DSLR with macro lens.

I only have my 686+ to compare with side by side, and while they are different models/designs, there are certainly some similarities in their design construction.

Either way, I hope these photos help to highlight what I am wondering about.

The poorly drawn yellow/orange arrow is pointing at main "crack" I'm concerned with, if that's what it is. It can be felt easily when drawing a toothpick over it.
20190421_230320.jpg

This little area (highlighted below with a crude little arrow) doesn't look like it was machined with an intentional radius either. And maybe that's normal, but it looks more like a crack than it does machining to my untrained eyes. Similarly, it feels different and "rough" when feeling with a toothpick and comparing to the outside edge of the side plate (where side plate meets frame).
20190421_230904.jpg
Hopefully these photos aide anyone who may have some insight into this.
Maybe I'm crazy and this is normal or not unusual.
Any help/insight is greatly appreciated, so again, thank you to everyone who reads this, looks at the crummy pictures and contributes. :)
 
OK, I think I see what you're seeing now (inside the circle) and without being able to examine it I'll concede that you may not be crazy.:D Contact Smith and let them determine what they can find. The fact that you are the second owner should not matter and likely will not come up unless you mention it. I've had good experiences with their warentie department. I'm also bothered by the rubline I have put the rectangular box around, looks like the hammer is rubbing harder than I am accustomed to. It would be interesting to examin it with the side plate removed.
upload_2019-4-21_23-4-34.png
 
OK, I think I see what you're seeing now (inside the circle) and without being able to examine it I'll concede that you may not be crazy.:D Contact Smith and let them determine what they can find. The fact that you are the second owner should not matter and likely will not come up unless you mention it. I've had good experiences with their warentie department. I'm also bothered by the rubline I have put the rectangular box around, looks like the hammer is rubbing harder than I am accustomed to. It would be interesting to examin it with the side plate removed.
View attachment 572393
That's EXACTLY it!

You are clearly way better than me with the photo stuff, but yes. That area circled is what I am concerned about. So maybe I'm not crazy? Is that abnormal? Is it a known thing with the Airweights?

And I agree. It does look like the hammer is/has been rubbing against the frame a little as shown by the wear/smooth line carved by it.

My friend just noticed and pointed this out to me last night, and as it is Sunday (Easter no less), S&W is closed so I haven't been able to talk with them yet.
I am not going to fire this revolver until I get to talk with S&W and hopefully resolve any worry I have.

I'm glad to hear from someone I don't know that I'm probably not crazy. What do you think about the other area of concern? (There is a photo above with it highlighted.)

Also: Thank You for taking the time.
 
BTW the photos are fine. I am continually amazed by the photos we can now take with cell phones and Ipads. Still can't bring myself to throw the thousands of dollars worth of 35mm film equipment I have sitting in the basement on fleabay. Mind you my Iphone still can't acquire the same shots as my macro gear.:)
 
BTW the photos are fine. I am continually amazed by the photos we can now take with cell phones and Ipads. Still can't bring myself to throw the thousands of dollars worth of 35mm film equipment I have sitting in the basement on fleabay. Mind you my Iphone still can't acquire the same shots as my macro gear.:)
Off subject, but I encourage you to hang onto and not get rid of your photo gear.

Today's technology is neato-speedo whiz-bang-plus, but actual film and mechanical cameras are something completely different and wonderful.

Maybe the old Nikon doesn't see as much action as it used to, and for many intents and purposes the iPhone or a DSLR gets more attention and use these days, but there is really something to be said for an actual photograph (a physical print you can actually hold and smudge with fingerprints, which was derived from a physical 35mm negative) vs what our phones, and even a decent DSLR can capture and produce.

Beyond the engineering wonders held within those machines, there is something about a real photograph. Just like there is something about a mechanical watch.

Sure, both technologies have been eclipsed by today's tech, but I personally prefer and appreciate the old stuff.

Even though my smart phone tells me the weather in addition to the time, and can interface with this forum directly from many places across the globe, I still wear and count on my mechanical watch to tell me the time, even if it is off by a few seconds every day or two.

I dunno. That's just me. :)
 
Off subject, but I encourage you to hang onto and not get rid of your photo gear.

Today's technology is neato-speedo whiz-bang-plus, but actual film and mechanical cameras are something completely different and wonderful.

Maybe the old Nikon doesn't see as much action as it used to, and for many intents and purposes the iPhone or a DSLR gets more attention and use these days, but there is really something to be said for an actual photograph (a physical print you can actually hold and smudge with fingerprints, which was derived from a physical 35mm negative) vs what our phones, and even a decent DSLR can capture and produce.

Beyond the engineering wonders held within those machines, there is something about a real photograph. Just like there is something about a mechanical watch.

Sure, both technologies have been eclipsed by today's tech, but I personally prefer and appreciate the old stuff.

Even though my smart phone tells me the weather in addition to the time, and can interface with this forum directly from many places across the globe, I still wear and count on my mechanical watch to tell me the time, even if it is off by a few seconds every day or two.

I dunno. That's just me. :)

My sister just lost all her digital photos ,memorys gone for ever. On film that would not happen
 
My sister just lost all her digital photos ,memorys gone for ever. On film that would not happen
I'm sorry to hear this news.
In a positive light: the memories aren't gone, just the "photos" of the memory are gone.
Still a bummer and I'm sorry to hear that.

Perhaps we should all do our best to go back to some of the old ways and use our film cameras to capture moments in time?
 
Anyone seen anything like this on their, or their friends', Airweights? Did I just get lucky?

Nobody has seen anything like this before?

There isn't a known concern with these revolvers is there? Anyone seen anything like this before?

Yes. Several people have reported cracks in the same area. Take a look:

It's this a cracked frame?

My 627's frame cracked in <100 rounds, what to expect?

Mod 60-4 Crack

48 frame question

Used 686, concern about scratch/crack

617-6 with issue?
 
Off subject, but I encourage you to hang onto and not get rid of your photo gear.

Today's technology is neato-speedo whiz-bang-plus, but actual film and mechanical cameras are something completely different and wonderful.

Maybe the old Nikon doesn't see as much action as it used to, and for many intents and purposes the iPhone or a DSLR gets more attention and use these days, but there is really something to be said for an actual photograph (a physical print you can actually hold and smudge with fingerprints, which was derived from a physical 35mm negative) vs what our phones, and even a decent DSLR can capture and produce.

Beyond the engineering wonders held within those machines, there is something about a real photograph. Just like there is something about a mechanical watch.

Sure, both technologies have been eclipsed by today's tech, but I personally prefer and appreciate the old stuff.

Even though my smart phone tells me the weather in addition to the time, and can interface with this forum directly from many places across the globe, I still wear and count on my mechanical watch to tell me the time, even if it is off by a few seconds every day or two.

I dunno. That's just me. :)

Mechanical watches, another money hole.:)
watch.jpg
 
So you are just clowning me.

I get it, and to a certain degree, agree. But is that "crack" headed upward normal? I added some zoomed in photos above to highlight the area of concern. Here is one of them highlight the area of concern (the orange/yellow arrow points to the upward heading "crack"):
20190421_230320.jpg
I know some of the seams are the side plate meeting the frame, the one that has me worried is the one that heads upwards.

Is that normal? If so, clown on and I'm a silly goofball. If not, is this common?
 
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