Bronze Lifetime
- Messages
- 5,432
- Reactions
- 14,908
You and I think very much alike in this regard. Quenching annealed brass isn't required; I just do it for convenience, when it's convenient.In terms of Brinell hardness, water quenching yellow brass after heating may make it harder, but in terms of cartridge hardness, it achieves the desired effect - minimizing crystal formation. Work hardening - firing, sizing - promotes crystal formation. Crystal size becomes smaller with increased work-hardening, and the smaller brass crystals increase the likelihood of case cracks. The brass will be more brittle.
Over tens of thousands of annealed cases, I found there is no perceptible difference between water or air cooling in my brass. Hence, I no longer waste time in drying my brass.
Annealing brass is one of those things where YMMV applies. Eric Cortina did an experiment where he grossly over-heated his brass while annealing, and found it did not affect accuracy.
I anneal because the cheap bastige in me prefers more brass life, I like how my bullet seating force seems more consistent, and I want to believe it makes my hand loaded cartridges more accurate. But, accuracy is a funny thing - with the same load batch, some days I'll shoot 1/4 MOA, and on others I'll struggle to keep it under 1MOA -- that indicates that my annealing has a miniscule effect. Hence, while I anneal, I don't sweat the details too much.