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After annealing several thousand brass cases in 30.06, 7.62/.308 and 5.56/.223 cases I can say for sure if not of the same manufacturer, or the same lot the case color is just not the same. And Tempilaq is an indicator, not the final solution.
No big deal. You work with what you got and work with the results. More than twice is good, right? Three or four is nice. After that, well done.
 
I can say for sure if not of the same manufacturer, or the same lot the case color is just not the same.
Yes, the color can vary from one brand / era to another. Cartridge brass supposedly runs 30% zinc. I'm not a metallurgist, but I'm guessing that can vary a little which might cause differences in color.
 
Case color - you mean after the annealing? It indicates very little.
I use the same setup as @Stomper - it works very well. I will set up the process in low light where I can see the radiant glow from the brass. From the chart below, I go between the 800°F and 1100°F colors. You need very low light to see it. Even going hotter, I have found zero negative effect on my brass.
You can also witness the dew-point effect on your brass at the perfect temperature but that's unreliable.

1759068586054.png
 
Im not certain what the question is here?

I dont find annealing complicated, or even expensive. I use the simple propane torch and drill motor method. From what Ive read we need to anneal around 700 degrees but it has a very large tolerance, cant really go wrong if its just starting to glow. I watched an Eric Cortina video where he intentionally over annealed brass then used a pressure gauge to test seating pressure and they were the same, not that you want to do that just saying its really hard to screw up as long as your consistent with your process, bring it to a glow then remove, dunk in water to stop the annealing from convecting to the case head. Simple.
 

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