Black Hole Weaponry barrel break in

slimmer13 · Oct 11, 2012

I just picked one up and will be taking it out tomorrow.

This is the posted break in procedure from their site...

5 rounds of copper jacket bullets, clean with non-copper removing solvent, clean with patch, repeat process for a total of 60 rounds.

We recommend shooting a good quality copper jacket bullet

.

My question is what is "non copper removing solvent". Everything I can find says it removes copper. Any suggestions?

ron · Oct 11, 2012

They are talking about solvents that are special purpose copper removers like Sweets, Hoppes copper out, Shooters choice copper remover. I would use Hoppes no. 9 or shooters choice. I have broken in match barrels with 1 shot and clean five times, 3 shots and clean 5 times, 5 shots and clean 5 times. This direction came from Kreiger and Douglas barrels. The Idea is to smooth up the bore. I also recommend using Brownels bore paste for break in and every 1000 rounds or so. I am a firm believer in bore paste it has improved accuracy in older barrels and new ones. It is similar to using Tubb's final finish bullets to smooth the bore. I have used the more aggressive type of copper cleaners like sweets and others. I have found the best way is to let Hoppes no. 9 soak over night. The next day the patch will come out blue. Repeat soaking overnight until patches do not come out blue. A good smooth bore will be easy to clean, accurate, and will not copper foul.

slimmer13 · Oct 11, 2012

BHW uses polygonal rifling and specifies the use of NON copper removing solvents.

The B · Oct 11, 2012

Why the flip non-copper? I sure as fap hope they aren't using a nickel lining..

BTW- the best barrel break-in procedure is to shoot the crap out of it.

slimmer13 · Oct 11, 2012

Ben Beckerich said:
Why the flip non-copper? I sure as fap hope they aren't using a nickel lining..

BTW- the best barrel break-in procedure is to shoot the crap out of it.

It is a SS barrel which (to my knowledge) never come lined. I normally use the "shoot the crap out of it" method, but I have no experience with these barrels and I bought it on a whim. It will be a varmint gun so I figured that I would follow the manufacturer's procedures for break in since it seems like the presence of copper in the barrel plays a role in the accuracy.

the4thshake · Oct 12, 2012

I did a little reading on their website and came across this:

"Strong solvents should NOT be used because they will also damage the finish."

The finish they are refering to is the blackened stainless steel.

So do they not want you to use copper removing solvents due to it damaging the finish? Could it have anything to do with the nickel content of the stainless steel?

I have always been under the impression that you want to get the copper out during break in. Personaly, I gave up on that stuff and just shoot them.

iamme · Oct 12, 2012

Did you try calling them?

Darkker · Oct 12, 2012

The "Issue" is an old wives tail, and people NOT doing a thorough job.
The "Classic copper killers" are Ammonia based. Ammonia CAN NOT hurt the barrel it's self. What it CAN do, if left for long periods in high humidity, is cause rust due to MOISTURE.

The desert part of Wa, and down in the flat part of Az, I have left Sweets in over-night many times. That gun(factory tube) STILL shoots MOA at 1K.

slimmer13 · Oct 17, 2012

iamme said:
Did you try calling them?

I emailed them and this was their response....

A good oil will work just fine. Shoot right around 60 rounds every 5th round run a wet patch then a dry patch. The reason for the non copper dissolving solution is that you want the copper in the bore to guild the barrel and create a uniformed surface.

The B · Oct 17, 2012

Some of these "break-in" barrels say you have to completely strip out all the copper during the break-in process, to allow the tool-marks in the bore to polish over.

It's all voodoo. It's all stupid. Although I think Black Hole's response is probably the most reasonable I've seen... so good on 'em for that.

welldonecj7 · Oct 18, 2012

hkw is the quality of these barrels? i have been looking and found a few reviews but would like to hear more

slimmer13 · Oct 19, 2012

hkw is the quality of these barrels? i have been looking and found a few reviews but would like to hear more

I took it out earlier today and am impressed. I bought a 18" mid length SS barrel with the black oxidized finish and I think it shoots better than I do. After the initial break in/scope sight in period I was getting 50 cent pc size groups at 80 yds. I think with sand bags (and a better shooter) it would tighten up a bit. I should be able to do some damage in the yote derby this winter.

Greenbug · Oct 19, 2012

Ben Beckerich said:
It's all voodoo. It's all stupid. Although I think Black Hole's response is probably the most reasonable I've seen... so good on 'em for that.

I used to think this way also.... Then I tried it about 15 years ago and it made a huge difference in accuracy and ease of cleaning for the life of the barrel. If you don't try it for yourself, you will never know how good your rifle can shoot or how much easier it will be to clean it. You can actually "feel" the bore getting smoother during the break-in process. IT WORKS!!!!

coop44 · Oct 19, 2012

If you want to sell more barrels, advise agressive cleaning often. advances wear a little faster. shortens accuracy lifespan.

The B · Oct 19, 2012

Greenbug said:
I used to think this way also.... Then I tried it about 15 years ago and it made a huge difference in accuracy and ease of cleaning for the life of the barrel. If you don't try it for yourself, you will never know how good your rifle can shoot or how much easier it will be to clean it. You can actually "feel" the bore getting smoother during the break-in process. IT WORKS!!!!

I've done it with several barrels... I noticed none of the above, and my most precise bench-resters were never broken in. Nor cleaned, for that matter. Install barrel, zero sights, begin shooting groups.

I'm NOT a bench-rester, just a tactical shooter who occasionally builds and shoots a benchrest quality gun. In full disclosure, it takes a lot more patience than I have to fire a .5 MOA group anyway. for my purposes, a sub-MOA gun is "sooper accurate," and I wouldn't be the guy to tell you if an extended, abusive, tedious, mind-numbing barrel break-in process could bring my .75s down to .5s anyway, 'cause I couldn't care less.

So, I amend my previous statement- Unless you're a competition bench-rester, it's all voodoo, and all stupid. And it's probably still all voodoo and stupid, even if you are- I just don't have the capacity to prove it.

Greenbug · Oct 19, 2012

Ben Beckerich said:
I've done it with several barrels... I noticed none of the above, and my most precise bench-resters were never broken in. Nor cleaned, for that matter. Install barrel, zero sights, begin shooting groups.

I'm NOT a bench-rester, just a tactical shooter who occasionally builds and shoots a benchrest quality gun. In full disclosure, it takes a lot more patience than I have to fire a .5 MOA group anyway. for my purposes, a sub-MOA gun is "sooper accurate," and I wouldn't be the guy to tell you if an extended, abusive, tedious, mind-numbing barrel break-in process could bring my .75s down to .5s anyway, 'cause I couldn't care less.

So, I amend my previous statement- Unless you're a competition bench-rester, it's all voodoo, and all stupid. And it's probably still all voodoo and stupid, even if you are- I just don't have the capacity to prove it.

So to paraphrase.... You are impatient and dont really care about accuracy so you think it's voodoo or just stupid.