Beginner Help

[Doogie AVN]

Looking for a little insight. I recently got into reloading and want to go shoot my first set of reloads this weekend. I don't have a chronograph and haven't thrown my charges yet. I guess what I'm getting at is, how do I maximize my time at the range while working on a load development? I'll be loading 30-30 with 150 gr Hornady RN with BL-C (2) powder.

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[GRMPS]

I do ladder tests when working up new loads. Lyman 49th edition calls for BL-C2 33 grn to 36.4 grn.
I'd start at 33 grn and work your way up in .5 grn increments to 36.4 ie 33, 33.5, 34, 34.5, 35, 35.5, 36, 36.4
I like to load 10 rounds per test. I would use a bench rest and different target for each load. note which one is the most accurate.
Pay attention to the primers when your working up a load, if they start flattening out don't go any hotter.
this will get you close. Next time out go up and down .1 grn from your best load and find what works best (some do it in .05 increments

 

[JRuby]

if your rifle is a lever action it might be wise to stay away from spire point bullets or ensure you only load two in the rifle at a time. If its a bolt carry on.

 

[ageingstudent]

I do ladder tests when working up new loads. Lyman 49th edition calls for BL-C2 33 grn to 36.4 grn.
I'd start at 33 grn and work your way up in .5 grn increments to 36.4 ie 33, 33.5, 34, 34.5, 35, 35.5, 36, 36.4
I like to load 10 rounds per test. I would use a bench rest and different target for each load. note which one is the most accurate.
Pay attention to the primers when your working up a load, if they start flattening out don't go any hotter.
this will get you close. Next time out go up and down .1 grn from your best load and find what works best (some do it in .05 increments

I usually do the same except I usually do 5 round groups initially and stay below max ~ 1 grain on the first go around. I really despise pulling apart ammo that isn't working out (too hot etc.) any more than necessary. I do 10 round groups on the next go and work out the max.

 

[P7M13]

After you find your most accurate load, then it's good to chrony it.

 

[Throckmorton]

I don[t have a chrony either, and don't feel every one MUST have one, it depends on your accuracy wants.


If one of you test loads center punches the target every time, how fast it's going is inconsequential UNLESS you are pushing the top end loads on the powder charts, Then you might want to be sure you're still 'in spec'.

30-30 not being a 'long range' round for most folks,the top end loads are seldom needed.

imho, ymmv

 

[jordanka16]

I usually do the same except I usually do 5 round groups initially and stay below max ~ 1 grain on the first go around. I really despise pulling apart ammo that isn't working out (too hot etc.) any more than necessary. I do 10 round groups on the next go and work out the max.

I usually do it the opposite way, 3 round groups looking for nodes and loading well above what I think I'll need, and then going back and fine tuning later. I do end up usually having to pull apart ammo.

 

[Doogie AVN]

Thanks everyone. I'll be using the Hornady 9th edition, which I read all the important bits in the front, but it doesn't give advice and experiences of you guys. I throw together some ladder loads and shoot some 5 round groups. I already have a bunch of cases prepped and primed, now to finish them up.

 

[awshoot]

... I guess what I'm getting at is, how do I maximize my time at the range while working on a load development? ...

Work up some test loads for two or more different rifles/guns. ;-)

Let your barrel cool between shots and shoot a 22 while you wait. You'll be there longer than you expected.

 

[Spitpatch]

Throckmorton identified a better question, though not in these words:

What is your goal? A goal toward accuracy might require a different strategy than a goal toward velocity. A goal toward economy might indicate a different strategy than either of those two.

With the assumption (based on caliber: .30-30) that the goal is a reliable and effective hunting round, then velocity and accuracy might be the tandem goals. Switching bullets almost always grants definitive results toward accuracy better than powder or primer choice (as long as powder and primer come well-recommended for the cartridge). Don't saddle yourself to one bullet to start with.

A Winchester 94 .30-30 with buckhorns may not be the best vehicle to isolate minor accuracy differences between loads. Another assumption here that your rifle is in that category.

Your powder is a good choice, your bullet is a good choice. A "ladder strategy" of incremental variation in powder amount, coupled with buckhorns on a 94 might be a frustrating exercise. I'd pick a powder weight that comes recommended toward your goals, then try another bullet or two with that powder weight. This might deliver a measurable difference faster. When your rifle tells you what bullet it seems to prefer, THEN mess with powder weight/primers, etc.

But then, buying various bullets kinda tosses economy out the window.

 

[Doogie AVN]

I have a Marlin 336 with a 2-7×33 Scope on it. I really enjoy both hunting and plinking with it. If I could get the best of both worlds and make an inexpensive but also reliable that would be great. I know what factory ammo works well with my gun and that's where I want to get my reloads to if not better.

As for buying different bullet weights, that's not too much of an issue. I have a few .30 cal rifles that eventually I will also reload for. My Marlin has always been my go to that's why I'm starting there.

 

[Throckmorton]

Is your marlin a pre microgroove. ? If so they shoot cast bullets real well,and for cheap plinking a cast bullet of about 160 grains sitting on ABOUT ten grains of Unique is a really fun ,mild, anybody can shoot it load.

I emphasize ABOUT so you will VERIFY and not take my word for it.

That rifle scoped should center punch the bulls eye all day long once you find the load it likes.

 

[Crazyeye24]

I do ladder tests when working up new loads. Lyman 49th edition calls for BL-C2 33 grn to 36.4 grn.
I'd start at 33 grn and work your way up in .5 grn increments to 36.4 ie 33, 33.5, 34, 34.5, 35, 35.5, 36, 36.4
I like to load 10 rounds per test. I would use a bench rest and different target for each load. note which one is the most accurate.
Pay attention to the primers when your working up a load, if they start flattening out don't go any hotter.
this will get you close. Next time out go up and down .1 grn from your best load and find what works best (some do it in .05 increments

^^^^

I do the same thing but start just below the low charge listed...call me paranoid!

 

[JRuby]

There are many useful tools but a I highly recommend is a kinetic bullet puller think of it as a eraser for fixing mistakes and the ability to reuse components.

 

[Doogie AVN]

Is your marlin a pre microgroove. ? If so they shoot cast bullets real well,and for cheap plinking a cast bullet of about 160 grains sitting on ABOUT ten grains of Unique is a really fun ,mild, anybody can shoot it load.

I emphasize ABOUT so you will VERIFY and not take my word for it.

That rifle scoped should center punch the bulls eye all day long once you find the load it likes.

No it is a microgroove from '76.

 

[awshoot]

There are many useful tools but a I highly recommend is a kinetic bullet puller think of it as a eraser for fixing mistakes and the ability to reuse components.

I used one of those for many years and they work totally fine, but after I got a collet puller I'd never even consider going back.

• Pros of kinetic: about $20 (*), works for most any caliber you're likely to load.
• Cons of kinetic: dumps the powder out of the shell. If you aren't careful about cleaning the end that catches the bullet and powder, especially the felt bumper at the bottom of the container that holds the bullet and powder, you can get powder mixing. It's pretty loud when you are whacking it against something like you would a hammer -- works best against concrete which may require that you leave your bench. Some fiddly bits at the end in which the bullet is inserted and there is also a cap to screw down each time.

• Pros of collet system: None of the cons of kinetic. Powder stays in the shell for easy and clean remeasuring and use, bullets are only slightly marred (this is true too with kinetic unless you do a bunch of cartridges and don't empty between them in which case the bullets will whack into each other a bunch and get dinged up).
• Cons of collet system: An RCBS collet die runs about $23 and each collet (you need one for each bullet caliber you may need to unload) runs $12.50. Nothing else.

(*) The prices are for RCBS stuff on MidwayUSA as of today. I see they have a different kinetic puller for $15. I got my RCBS kinetic puller in 1995 and used it for about 20 years. It hasn't broken yet, and never will now that I have the have the other kind. ;-)

 

[JRuby]

I used one of those for many years and they work totally fine, but after I got a collet puller I'd never even consider going back.

• Pros of kinetic: about $20, works for most any caliber you're likely to load.
• Cons of kinetic: dumps the powder out of the shell. If you aren't careful about cleaning the end that catches the bullet and powder, especially the felt bumper at the bottom of the container that holds the bullet and powder, you can get powder mixing. It's pretty loud when you are whacking it against something like you would a hammer -- works best against concrete which may require that you leave your bench. Some fiddly bits at the end in which the bullet is inserted and there is also a cap to screw down each time.

• Pros of collet system: None of the cons of kinetic. Bullets are only slightly marred (this is true too with kinetic unless you do a bunch of cartridges and don't empty between them in which case the bullets will whack into each other a bunch and get dinged up).
• Cons of collet system: An RCBS collet die runs about $23 and each collet (you need one for each caliber you may need to unload) runs $12.50. Nothing else.

I have both and the problem with the RCBS collet system is that collet has to bite into the bullet many times putting a ring or line on the bullet. I am assuming that the ring must change the bullet to some extent. If you cannot get that bite on the bullet it is frustrating and has led to pushing the bullet further into the case. You do not have this issue with the kinetic puller.

 

[awshoot]

I have both and the problem with the RCBS collet system is that collet has to bite into the bullet many times putting a ring or line on the bullet. I am assuming that the ring must change the bullet to some extent. If you cannot get that bite on the bullet it is frustrating and has led to pushing the bullet further into the case. You do not have this issue with the kinetic puller.

I agree that there is some marring, but mostly I just see a scratch. That said, I never use pulled bullets for anything but plinking rounds because I too figure it changes the bullet's dynamics -- I definitely wouldn't want to hunt with a pulled bullet (but people do or so I'm told -- I'm just fussy). As for pushing in, maybe I've been lucky or haven't been using it long enough -- it hasn't happened to me yet at least. It's just so much less mess and noise (perhaps I should mention I have a permanently impaired elbow too for which hammering is not the thing) -- that makes me love it.

 

[Pete F]

I bought two "Grip-n-Pull" bullet pullers that cover all of my calibers. They are fast and easy to use, but not cheap. I had to polish one of them because it was creating furrows in the bullets. Other than that, you can pull most bullets without a mark. For military bullets, using your seating die to break the crimp and sealant hold by driving the bullet slightly lower helps.

I have 660 7.62x51 NATO rounds from India that I am slowly redoing. It is not recommended to shoot these as the QC was zero and there was some that were full of what looked like dirt or double charged - sabotaged. There is a lot of info on the internet about these. Paid $60 basically for the components and a nice ammo box. The brass, primers and bullets are fine. The Grip-n-Pull works great on these.

 

[Spitpatch]

"I have a Marlin 336 with a 2-7×33 Scope on it."

You have the rock star of .30-30's. THIS gun WILL allow you to discern minor differences of accuracy in handloads. My 1948 336 challenges fat-barrel bolt guns for accuracy (replete with its 2.5x Lyman Alaskan scope against 12 powers).

Again: your powder choice is perfect. Your bullet choice is perfect. (With a couple suggestions you may not need since you did so well to start with):

In bullet experimentation, top candidates (aside from your perfect Hornady) would be the Sierra 150gr flat base round nose and Hornady "rubber nose" stuff (160g I think).

And....If your quarry is deer only (and coyotes, etc.) apart from any application to elk or bear, I am STRONGLY recommending you try the Sierra 125gr Flat Nose Hollowpoint. This is the bullet that turned the corner for my 336 where accuracy is concerned. The numerous Savage 340 bolt .30-30's that have come and gone also liked this bullet. Other benefits: noticeable reduction in recoil, noticeable reduction in bullet drop when you reach out to 200yds or so. Quicker, more dramatic "shock-kills" on deer when rib-shot.

Don't traipse out there and bust 'em in the fanny with this bullet. But then, ya ought not ta be doin' that with any bullet.

Your 336 with the good scope will tell you the difference in careful weighing of each charge as opposed to thrown from the measure. Your 336 will tell you what primer it likes. It will tell you first of all which bullet it prefers, and there will be no doubt.