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FWIW I own a machine shop and I take no offense to the term "build".

I also don't recommend a newbie build their own AR as you need the right tools, jigs, a vice and a workbench which a lot of guys don't have. If you don't have the right gear you will guaranteed booger up a few roll pins and lose some tiny springs and then smash your knuckles and pinch your skin, which will take the fun out of it. Better off learning safety, maintenance, and shooting technique before investing more heavily in ARs. For newbies, at least.
 
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Great channel for AR builds School of the American Rifle

 
Great thread with a lot of "perspective."
I have two questions:
1. Are the lower parts kit for an AR15 and the AR10 the same? (I've "built" them both and they look identical)
2. That little spring under the disconnector; why does installing it upside down make the gun NOT run right?

Thank you.
 
Great thread with a lot of "perspective."
I have two questions:
1. Are the lower parts kit for an AR15 and the AR10 the same? (I've "built" them both and they look identical)
2. That little spring under the disconnector; why does installing it upside down make the gun NOT run right?

Thank you.
1: Depends on the AR10 pattern - there are several. That's one of the drawbacks to the platform. DPMS is the most common, but I see an eventual future of a Ruger based pattern, which IIRC is AR15 parts compatible.

2; Dunno, but my guess is mechanical fit since the spring is tapered.
 
Great thread with a lot of "perspective."
I have two questions:
1. Are the lower parts kit for an AR15 and the AR10 the same? (I've "built" them both and they look identical)
2. That little spring under the disconnector; why does installing it upside down make the gun NOT run right?

Thank you.
There are some differences in the LPKs. Here's a list of parts compatibility. Gen I is the typical DPMS LR308 large frame. Gen II is a small frame short action (.308, etc.) and is currently not in production. This list has some errors and caveats, but is a good start.

FWB52poh.jpg
 
I shouldn't have installed that trigger guard, I could have gotten an aluminum or steel with spring loaded.
The other thing is the springed guided pin on the castle nut. When I wrench it to the max, it locks the the pin and I cant put the buffer springs and piston properly. So I have it back it up a hair so the springed pin starts moving. So far everything seems to be set right including the trigger. It snaps and releases properly when I back the trigger.
Other than that it seems like its ready to rock! 💥 :s0007:

1740358760802.jpeg
 
I shouldn't have installed that trigger guard, I could have gotten an aluminum or steel with spring loaded.
The other thing is the springed guided pin on the castle nut. When I wrench it to the max, it locks the the pin and I cant put the buffer springs and piston properly. So I have it back it up a hair so the springed pin starts moving. So far everything seems to be set right including the trigger. It snaps and releases properly when I back the trigger.
Other than that it seems like its ready to rock! 💥 :s0007:

View attachment 2042929
You'll learn by doing. Never be afraid to ask questions.
 
The store bought pivot pin tool is plastic and it works just fine for AR-15s but does not work for AR-10s (spacing is wider on the 10). I should buy a Clevis pin for both. This is a good alternative.
 
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This nifty "tool" will make that front take down pin a lot easier to install. There is a good chance you can find one at your local hardware store.Way easier to use than the razor blade method.

View attachment 2042956
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJNaTjvQaVQ&pp=ygUTY2xvdmlzIHBpbiBhciBsb3dlcg%3D%3D
Launch prevention is all about correct technique. This is the proper tool designed specific specifically for that purpose.
 

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