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Hi gang...I am a bit confused with the function of my AR a the suppressor is attached.
18" wylde full length gas system and a Gem Tech "Tracker 30 can". I'm using a 1/2 x 28 adapter to get to the can.
So without the can this rifle is reliable and throws brass at 4-5 o clock around 6 feet with factory american eagle and also 60gr v max handloads...all seems right here.
Attach the can and now the brass is 2 o clock and about 18" to 2 feet. Its been reliable but I'm concerned why the brass is not ejected stronger. Wouldn't a can overgas the system and eject brass even further? I bought an adj low profile gas block but have not installed it. Also I expect the upper to get really dirty but it seems too much, but then I have nothing to compare to. And lastly I have a very light single stage trigger on this and it has doubled more than once with the can on...trying to get my head around this one too. Thanks in advance for some advice.
 
OEM AR15 rifles work because of the relationship of the gas pressure wave to barrel length and gas port placement. This relationship is disturbed when non OEM specifications are used. Use of a can makes it worse.

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All Oregon State Laws, US Code Laws And BATFE Rules And NFA Laws Apply.
 
Last Edited:
You are over gassed and the bolt is coming back to hard, get an adjustable gas block and dial your gas flow back.
I use SLR gas blocks.
 
This is true but like all things sometimes the adjustment comes at a price like time, location, volume, velocity, etc.. :). Even with dinky .22rf semi auto rifles like our short barrel suppressed Ruger 1022 summer vegetable garden monster slayer the can traps enough gas inside that a little residual volume and pressure runs backwards out through the chamber.

I am left handed and the right handed Ruger 1022 squirts a little gas back into my face. Not much but I can both smell and feel it. Possibly your 18" bbl. suppressed AR15 rifle with a standard length rifle gas tube and barrel port kicks the brass out less distance and to a different location because the can is robbing the rifle of enough pressure to affect brass ejection?

Dunno fur sures. All Oregon State, US Code Laws And BATFE Rules And NFA Laws Apply.
 
My understanding is that the suppressor lengthens the gas release period. Instead of all the gas escaping at the end of the barrel in a single instant the gas is allowed to dissipate over the length of the suppressor. For my Rem 700 308 this results in noticeable recoil reduction. I would agree with others that the change in the gas dissipation is affecting the ejection and the solution would be an adjustable gas block.
 
Cans create gas blowback in the action of an AR, the gas actually creates a problem with a build up of burnt powder over time. Look at the next round of ammo in the mag and you will see its nasty from hot gas and burnt powder comming right out of the gas system into the action. The can stops the free exit of the gas and it flows back, if you want the least blowback then pick a suppressor made for the AR gas system. While lots of suppressors work they create problems in the gun.

I bought a Gemteck entry suppressor for the AR because it just takes the blast away, it makes it so you can shoot under a covered range and not lose your hearing, that's all I wanted. It does blow back and fill the gun with crap but since I know this I clean it often before the crap stops the gun.

Good luck and have fun:)
 
Suppression at the muzzle is almost inversely proportional to suppression at the shooter's ear.

The better the effect at the muzzle, the more gas is restricted, which leads to "port pop" noise. As already mentioned, an adjustable gas block can help alleviate some of that.

The suppressors that sound the best at the shooter's ear generally do not meter that well at the muzzle. They are designed to reduce back pressure and port pop, but at the expense of more noise in front of the rifle.

Everything is a trade-off. I am more concerned with how a suppressor sounds to the shooter, but I can understand why the military might be more concerned with muzzle report in many situation.

As for it being overgassed, there are two issues likely affection the ejection.

A 1:00-2:00 ejection pattern usually means the empty brass is bouncing off the shell deflector hard enough to kick it forward. The brass will likely have noticeable dents on the side from this.

The other issue is that the suppressor adds to the dwell time, and often means the bolt is trying to unlock and extract while the system is under pressure. Take a close look at the brass for bent or torn rims from the extractor.

Both issues can usually be solved, or at least mitigated, by using a heavier buffer and/or an adjustable gas block.

In reality, as long as it runs fine, and isn't mangling the brass too bad, it's not a problem. It's probably better to be slightly overgassed, and be able to run Wolf/Tula & PMC, than to have it choke on the lower powered ammunition. Just keep an eye on it when shooting in hot weather.
 
All
Thanks for the help here are NW firearms. Indeed the rifle was way over gassed with suppressor.
Once I installed an adjustable gas block and one trip to the range, 10 rounds later the gas was adjusted. Now running as it should and soft shooting again.
Thanks Again
 
I wonder the same thing and may test that one day but for now I just decided to just shoot it suppressed rather and adjust back and forth. This rig I use almost 100% for night time predator hunting.
Thanks
 
So now I need to know how a 556 and 30 can are different as far as back pressure? My can is a 30cal suppressor. Btw I mostly shoot a 60gr v-max near max in this coyote rig.
 
Rule of thumb for suppressor on Gas or piston guns, always back down the gas when suppressed, different rifles and gas length or drive systems will all require a different setting, as an example on a FAL, it's usually 1/2 to one full turn of the adjuster, or you can go by sight and watch for the increase in black soot being vented behind the front sight, if it's black and foggy, your good, if it's white, your still over gassed!
 

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