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How often should we remove the ejector and extractor to clean inside there?
Will sonic cleaning solution left in there harm anything? The sonic cleaner works amazing on this, so I want to just dry it off and oil it and use it but wonder if it needs to be disassembled now and then?

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It's amazing how much those little brass chips end up all over. I'll pull extractor every couple of outings and the the ejector when it starts to feel gritty when I push down on the plunger. I have know idea how left over ultrasonic cleaning solution effects anything, but I would think it would take up space where you need oil to get to.
 
When got my AR is took the bolt and hand guard apart numerous times. Did not have any issues but I disassemble my bolt after firing 500 rounds or so. I look for wear on extractor and other parts. So far I have only had to replace the gas rings. But I do keep spare gas rings, firing pins, etc. in case they wear out or break. I also bought a spare BCG as well.
 
As I suspected, sounds like regular disassembly should be part of the maintenance but Im hoping in between I can just dunk in the sonic cleaner it makes cleaning is easy but I dont want to take it apart every time....
 
How often should we remove the ejector and extractor to clean inside there?
Will sonic cleaning solution left in there harm anything? The sonic cleaner works amazing on this, so I want to just dry it off and oil it and use it but wonder if it needs to be disassembled now and then?

View attachment 2102061
I'll take a crack at this one:

Looking at the diagram above, parts #1 & #4 are retaining pins. If they are interference fit, do NOT reuse. Purchase new pins. Under some of the extractors a rubber 0-ring is used along with part #2, this might not be compatible with cleaning solutions. Dito with any O-ring.

Would suggest a complete rebuild kit for the bolt, including springs. Keep a complete spare on hand. Include a new buffer spring in your spares.

This style of firearm is a use it or lose it. The springs will weaken and shorten. When the fired brass does not find its way out of the receiver, replace springs. You will be surprised at the difference between new & old springs.

YMMV

Foreverlost,
 
1 and 4 are solid pins and are reusable.
IIRC in my bolts the ejector pins are roll pins. Plus all Im finding for spares are also roll pins?
Are the ejector and extractor pins interchangeable?

 
If you're using quality components the need to clean is over done, unless you're in an area that requires it...extremely dusty or humid.

At the end of each training year, I'll detail clean and inspect. During the year, I wipe down, lube and go...and use no solvent in the barrel...ever.

I've pulled the ejector out of 20 bolts in 30+ years, and 18 of those were done during armorer courses.

Not that I do everything that others do, but if you have heard of Pat Rogers...pay attention to the first few minutes where he goes over cleaning...or the lack of the continual need;

View: https://youtu.be/0Ej-xCW_YQs?si=ehzVYbwxKa68cGnn
 
The key word is "interference". If a pin punch is required to remove, driven out.........with force, I'll kindly suggest, do not reuse. Some of pins used are not perfectly round. Being a softer metal than the bolt, little harm is done to the bolt. The irregular shape keeps the pin in place.

Just noticed new post, "roll pins"! Bet they require to be driven out? Ask yourself how much damage to the firearm if they move. Roll pins are cheap. I would not go overboard removing them twice a week.:D

Later.............
Foreverlost,
 
IIRC in my bolts the ejector pins are roll pins. Plus all Im finding for spares are also roll pins?
Are the ejector and extractor pins interchangeable?

My mistake, the ejector pin can be either roll or solid, and are not interchangeable with the extractor pin.

Punch them out carefully, they can be reused...the secret is to get the ejector lined up with the pin hole.

I've been to a few armorer courses and teach them as well....
 
If you're using quality components the need to clean is over done, unless you're in an area that requires it...extremely dusty or humid.

At the end of each training year, I'll detail clean and inspect. During the year, I wipe down, lube and go...and use no solvent in the barrel...ever.

I've pulled the ejector out of 20 bolts in 30+ years, and 18 of those were done during armorer courses.

Not that I do everything that others do, but if you have heard of Pat Rogers...pay attention to the first few minutes where he goes over cleaning...or the lack of the continual need;

View: https://youtu.be/0Ej-xCW_YQs?si=ehzVYbwxKa68cGnn
Ive never taken apart and cleaned my bolts extractor, my oldest rifle is 12 years old now. They dont get heavy use Im just a casual user and simply enjoy them.
Ive heard they dont need meticulous cleaning like many think and understand why, my routine has just been wipe down, re-lube and go. I dont use scrapers to clean my bolts, just wipe and go.
On a whim I thought Id see how my sonic cleaner would work on the BCG, and it did really well. I did not disassemble the bolt so was just curious if I should get in there to clean out the sonic parts cleaner under the extractor etc... currently, I just used compressed air to dry it then re-oiled in there and put the gun back together. I don't suspect causing any issues, but was also just curious how often the ejector and extractors get cleaned.

As far as spare critical parts go, I know I have some I ordered a while back but for the lower receiver... will add the bolt parts just in case. A few extra of the roll pins as it turns out... I would not re-use a roll pin unless I had no choice.
 
Ive never taken apart and cleaned my bolts extractor, my oldest rifle is 12 years old now. They dont get heavy use Im just a casual user and simply enjoy them.
Ive heard they dont need meticulous cleaning like many think and understand why, my routine has just been wipe down, re-lube and go. I dont use scrapers to clean my bolts, just wipe and go.
On a whim I thought Id see how my sonic cleaner would work on the BCG, and it did really well. I did not disassemble the bolt so was just curious if I should get in there to clean out the sonic parts cleaner under the extractor etc... currently, I just used compressed air to dry it then re-oiled in there and put the gun back together. I don't suspect causing any issues, but was also just curious how often the ejector and extractors get cleaned.

As far as spare critical parts go, I know I have some I ordered a while back but for the lower receiver... will add the bolt parts just in case. A few extra of the roll pins as it turns out... I would not re-use a roll pin unless I had no choice.
Yes, never use scrapers on the bolts, especially the tail...ugh

For spare parts;

Extractor – Pin – Spring – Buffer - 2

Firing Pins & Retainers - 2

Gas Rings – 2 sets

Cam Pins – 2 ea.

Complete Bolts - 2

Hammers / Triggers - Pins – Springs – 2 ea.

Action Springs – 2 ea.

Detents – Springs – LPK

Magazine Springs
 
Yes, never use scrapers on the bolts, especially the tail...ugh

For spare parts;

Extractor – Pin – Spring – Buffer - 2

Firing Pins & Retainers - 2

Gas Rings – 2 sets

Cam Pins – 2 ea.

Complete Bolts - 2

Hammers / Triggers - Pins – Springs – 2 ea.

Action Springs – 2 ea.

Detents – Springs – LPK

Magazine Springs
Super helpful, thank you. I have some of these already but will order the rest.

As for cleaning, I don't see any harm in continuing to use the sonic cleaner but it doesn't sound like I need to worry about taking apart the extractor and ejector. The cleaner solution is brand specific to gun parts, I'll just blow it out with compressed air, add oil and go shooting.
I don't clean it every range session but the sonic cleaner did so well it even removed the carbon from the bolt tail, not that it needs it.
 
The only times I've removed the extractor, was for spring replacement. For troubleshooting extraction/ejection issues. Just a couple times now.

For sonicating BCG's I only field strip them: firing pin retaining pin, firing pin, cam pin, bolt.

Sonicate.

Scrub as needs be using toothbrush &/or q-tips.

Dry well after cleaning/sonicating, including canned air.

Then I lube using Lucas Oil 10393 chain lube aerosol. IIRC it has a pretty decent molybdenum content, with the lighter carrier evaporating over time.
 
Last Edited:
Dry well after cleaning/sonicating, including canned air
Good suggestion.

I use an air compressor to get stuff out of tight spaces without disassembling and to push oil into nooks and crannies it might not otherwise get into.

It's worked great for a lot of years now.

I use dog puppy training pads on the floor to catch any run off - cheap and easy to fold up and throw away.
 
IIRC in my bolts the ejector pins are roll pins. Plus all Im finding for spares are also roll pins?
Are the ejector and extractor pins interchangeable?

Blows me away how much people charge for crappy roll pins.

 
Last Edited:
BCM has 3 packs for extractor springs.
They use a Sprinco 5 coil.
Any of mine that had a 3 coil spring and donut got swapped out.

I haven't had to scrape the Sionics NP3 bolt so far, just wipe it off.
Comes with a 5 coil spring also.
 

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